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Who else is working on their LRBHO install?


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Additionally I find that the BHO bolt, which is by the trigger, moves up and down as the gun cycles. If my shooting fingure is too high, I can accidently engage the BHO or the BHO can stop a shell from coming all the way up in the mag. To prevent this, I position my fingure on the lower part of the trigger.

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I was concerned about the closeness to my trigger finger. I notched the receiver tonight to use the upper hole for the manual release. May hold off on trimming the leg shorter until I live fire it.

 

If anyone else decides to notch the receiver to use the upper hole, make sure you keep the slot as small as possible or the spring screw may get hung, plus depending on if or how you modified it. I did turn mine down some due to hitting in the receiver. I am going get a new screw from work tomorrow just to be safe and clearance the receiver.

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The original Cadiz chest thumping video showed the BHO working perfectly with just one shell in the magazine. So....the device will probabaly work just fine if you download the magazine to one round.

I am beginning to see an infinate number of variables that need to be worked out inorder for this to work right.

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The original Cadiz chest thumping video showed the BHO working perfectly with just one shell in the magazine. So....the device will probabaly work just fine if you download the magazine to one round.

 

Tony please share. If you've got the inside scoop or some expert knowledge we're all ears (eyes really).

 

Thanks.

Edited by Bridis
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The original Cadiz chest thumping video showed the BHO working perfectly with just one shell in the magazine. So....the device will probabaly work just fine if you download the magazine to one round.

 

Tony please share. If you've got the inside scoop or some expert knowledge we're all ears (eyes really).

 

Thanks.

:Johnboy:

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Has anyone asked Cadiz what he charges to install his LRBHO? I'm kinda thinking that might save me a huge headache.

 

 

From the CGW forum.

 

The $250 includes the parts.

Currently I'm 120 to 150 days out on these.

A $50 deposit will reserve your number/place in line, and we can ship the gun in when I get close to your number.

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Has anyone asked Cadiz what he charges to install his LRBHO? I'm kinda thinking that might save me a huge headache.

 

 

From the CGW forum.

 

The $250 includes the parts.

Currently I'm 120 to 150 days out on these.

A $50 deposit will reserve your number/place in line, and we can ship the gun in when I get close to your number.

 

Thanks, that's actually not bad at all.

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Well I did my live fire test and I was pleasantly surprised that it worked for the most part. The main problem I have is inserting a mag with my mag-well attached. Since I have to modify the mag to work with the mag-well sometimes I don't get the mag seated in properly before the bolt closes which caused the jam. Maybe need a little more tweaking....Worked great when I used it without the mag-well (rocking and locking unmodified mag)..still, I only put 50 rounds through but my results were promising..

 

Note- I choose to put the release through the side. if you do this you have to grind down the the threads of the release screw flush with the back side. If not, it will catch on the hammer spring leg and will bind up the lever. Photos below..

 

 

post-16230-0-23236300-1301353858_thumb.jpg

 

post-16230-0-99835600-1301353945_thumb.jpg

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Well I did my live fire test and I was pleasantly surprised that it worked for the most part. The main problem I have is inserting a mag with my mag-well attached. Since I have to modify the mag to work with the mag-well sometimes I don't get the mag seated in properly before the bolt closes which caused the jam. Maybe need a little more tweaking....Worked great when I used it without the mag-well (rocking and locking unmodified mag)..still, I only put 50 rounds through but my results were promising..

 

Note- I choose to put the release through the side. if you do this you have to grind down the the threads of the release screw flush with the back side. If not, it will catch on the hammer spring leg and will bind up the lever. Photos below..

 

 

post-16230-0-23236300-1301353858_thumb.jpg

 

post-16230-0-99835600-1301353945_thumb.jpg

If your right handed, use your trigger fingure to apply upward pressure on the BHO bolt, under the weight of the gun, as you install another mag. Once the mag is inserted, you can disengage the BHO with your trigger fingure. Just like a AR-15 Magpul BAD device. If your left handed, do the same with your left thumb. If you can't grip the BHO bolt due to the positioning in the reciever, just use a longer bolt.

 

I use a JT MAGWELL and this TTP works perfectly.

Edited by Crusader
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Well I did my live fire test and I was pleasantly surprised that it worked for the most part. The main problem I have is inserting a mag with my mag-well attached. Since I have to modify the mag to work with the mag-well sometimes I don't get the mag seated in properly before the bolt closes which caused the jam. Maybe need a little more tweaking....Worked great when I used it without the mag-well (rocking and locking unmodified mag)..still, I only put 50 rounds through but my results were promising..

 

Note- I choose to put the release through the side. if you do this you have to grind down the the threads of the release screw flush with the back side. If not, it will catch on the hammer spring leg and will bind up the lever. Photos below..

 

 

post-16230-0-23236300-1301353858_thumb.jpg

 

post-16230-0-99835600-1301353945_thumb.jpg

If your right handed, use your trigger fingure to apply upward pressure on the BHO bolt, under the weight of the gun, as you install another mag. Once the mag is inserted, you can disengage the BHO with your trigger fingure. Just like a AR-15 Magpul BAD device. If your left handed, do the same with your left thumb. If you can't grip the BHO bolt due to the positioning in the reciever, just use a longer bolt.

 

I use a JT MAGWELL and this TTP works perfectly.

 

Will do.. thanks for the info..

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here,s a couple videos of my lrbho http://www.youtube.c...h?v=jzOgiPNvhPc http://www.youtube.c...h?v=1lXfI73bT5Y sorry about the last one being crooked !

 

I'd like to get a better look at that notch you put in the back. That's a great idea. It may be possible to make that notch a little less dramatic and still get it to hold the bolt carrier while loading a mag as well as also being able to manually engage the bolt.

 

As soon as I get my gun functioning 100%, I'm going to post pictures with measurements as well.

 

Thanks.

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here,s a couple videos of my lrbho http://www.youtube.c...h?v=jzOgiPNvhPc http://www.youtube.c...h?v=1lXfI73bT5Y sorry about the last one being crooked !

 

I'd like to get a better look at that notch you put in the back. That's a great idea. It may be possible to make that notch a little less dramatic and still get it to hold the bolt carrier while loading a mag as well as also being able to manually engage the bolt.

 

As soon as I get my gun functioning 100%, I'm going to post pictures with measurements as well.

 

Thanks.

You bet , I'll try to find some grid paper tomarrow , I agree about the notch , it probly could be done with some fine tweaking .

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here,s a couple videos of my lrbho http://www.youtube.c...h?v=jzOgiPNvhPc http://www.youtube.c...h?v=1lXfI73bT5Y sorry about the last one being crooked !

 

I'd like to get a better look at that notch you put in the back. That's a great idea. It may be possible to make that notch a little less dramatic and still get it to hold the bolt carrier while loading a mag as well as also being able to manually engage the bolt.

 

As soon as I get my gun functioning 100%, I'm going to post pictures with measurements as well.

 

Thanks.

Bridis;

 

I wonder if the 8rd AGP mags would have worked better for you. It seems that it's increased spring tension may have allowed it to overcome the BHO friction.

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Well J Iang I really like your notch idea. Tonight I worked on getting my Hawk's Beak to climb a little higher so the rounds would chamber easier. I also notched the back of the LRBHO to catch the bolt carrier and enable my gun to be loaded on a full mag. Though I ran out of time before I could tweak it to see if I could get the bolt to manually close. But I think that I could live without that feature if the gun cycles reliably and lock open on the last round.

 

I was doing some hand cycling and everything worked better than before with my factory 5 round. However, my MD Drum didn't have enough upward pressure to raise the Hawk's Beak. I'm going to try and increase the tension of the drum spring to see if I can get the drums to work.

 

BTW, I don't think you need to recreate that upward bend.

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I have been looking into the idea of making a stepped bushing for the LRBHO to rotate on. This would prevent the hammer spring from putting any pressure on the LRBHO.

 

I was hoping to start tonight on turning one and have it ready for this weekend's shooting but it may be next week before I have something.

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I really don't think you need it. I think once you get the catch screw gound down and polished the LRBHO wil operate fine. I also may be wrong about my drum mag. It may not need to have the tension adjusted. I may only need to be notched a little deeper.

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I don't want to go negative on the thing, and I appreciate how ambitious people are to try and make something like this, but I'm not sure about it.

 

If you look at the Russian one, it has a very solid looking part that stops the bolt carrier:

 

 

post-1629-0-64670700-1301462651_thumb.jpg

 

lrbho_top.jpg

 

The lever that actuates is separate from the thing that stops the bolt, and the other end of it can be pushed up to release the bolt. That's a more robust design, I think.

 

It doesn't require any grinding of the bolt, and it replaces the ejector block instead of having to cut into it.

 

I know that it is follower actuated instead of shell actuated, so it would need some kind of follower modification, but I would rather modify a follower than the bolt.

 

Not trying to rain on the parade, just saying...

 

Original post from Russian guy DrBornmental

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Yeah, thats great if you only want to use modded mags. It wont work for drums though. I would rather have both, and will.

 

I started my LRBHO tonight. Im pretty happy with the results so far. I ended up bending the "beak" area up a bit. I ended up with a "beak" that looks more like the one Cadiz posted. I still need to get a screw/button that I want to use for a side release and clearance all the springs and such.

Its definitely not project you want to rush and taking a tiny bit at a time is the way to go. I will try to get some pics up when I can with my crappy camera );

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Is anyone doing anything to retain the other half of the rivet that is cut in the ejector block? (left side) If I decide to remove the sight rail, I will tap the block and use a countersunk screw.

 

Is there any reason why you couldn't put a 90' bend in the spring and put it in the screw hole? (doing away with the screw) The only thing I can see is that you might need to make the screw hole a slot to allow for travel. That and the spring might not take a bend without breaking. I'm thinking this would make a much cleaner install. Maybe even put a second bend on the other side of the LRBHO to help retain it.

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I don't want to go negative on the thing, and I appreciate how ambitious people are to try and make something like this, but I'm not sure about it.

 

If you look at the Russian one, it has a very solid looking part that stops the bolt carrier:

 

 

post-1629-0-64670700-1301462651_thumb.jpg

 

lrbho_top.jpg

 

The lever that actuates is separate from the thing that stops the bolt, and the other end of it can be pushed up to release the bolt. That's a more robust design, I think.

 

It doesn't require any grinding of the bolt, and it replaces the ejector block instead of having to cut into it.

 

I know that it is follower actuated instead of shell actuated, so it would need some kind of follower modification, but I would rather modify a follower than the bolt.

 

Not trying to rain on the parade, just saying...

 

Original post from Russian guy DrBornmental

 

I have one of the factory LRBHO as well. I was not impressed with it. Looks flimsy. I am concerned about the load the bolt will put on the pin with extended use. It is a simple design and does work great though. Plus additional mags have to be modified to utilize it.

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Is anyone doing anything to retain the other half of the rivet that is cut in the ejector block? (left side) If I decide to remove the sight rail, I will tap the block and use a countersunk screw.

...

 

I drilled and put in a roll pin. Then peened over the hole so it would not come out. Might tap it for a set screw later.

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I don't want to go negative on the thing, and I appreciate how ambitious people are to try and make something like this, but I'm not sure about it.

 

If you look at the Russian one, it has a very solid looking part that stops the bolt carrier:

 

The lever that actuates is separate from the thing that stops the bolt, and the other end of it can be pushed up to release the bolt. That's a more robust design, I think.

 

It doesn't require any grinding of the bolt, and it replaces the ejector block instead of having to cut into it.

 

I know that it is follower actuated instead of shell actuated, so it would need some kind of follower modification, but I would rather modify a follower than the bolt.

 

Not trying to rain on the parade, just saying...

 

Original post from Russian guy DrBornmental

Is the Russian one available as a drop-in part, or if not, is anyone working on an American copy?

The Cadiz or CSS one seems beyond my skill and means.

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Is anyone doing anything to retain the other half of the rivet that is cut in the ejector block? (left side) If I decide to remove the sight rail, I will tap the block and use a countersunk screw.

 

Is there any reason why you couldn't put a 90' bend in the spring and put it in the screw hole? (doing away with the screw) The only thing I can see is that you might need to make the screw hole a slot to allow for travel. That and the spring might not take a bend without breaking. I'm thinking this would make a much cleaner install. Maybe even put a second bend on the other side of the LRBHO to help retain it.

I understand you're spring in the screw hole idea and it sounds good in theory , but that screw is kind of a tricky thing , if it's to long " factory length " it will put the lrbho in a bind between the hammer and the side of the receiver. If it's to short or gone you're lrbho will run into the bottom leg of the carrier rail on the side of the receiver.

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In my opinion, this LRBHO isn't worth the time or the money. Or the headaches I'm sure folks are having right now.

 

$75.00 for a piece of steel that has to be chopped up, bent and extensively modified before it will work correctly? No thanks.

 

Not that it wouldn't be nice, I just don't see any major benefit.

 

Good luck :smoke:

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Well when SHTF, and you get bitten to death by zombies because your having to go through 9 trillion steps to load a new mag; Ill be locked and loaded in no time and the lead will be flowing!

 

Plus; yea it gets easier to load a full mag on a closed bolt with practice, but still, there are those times when it gets stuck and just wont click until you really work that bitch...Not good in a life or death situation...

 

Plus; how many times have you been blasting away, then you drop the hammer on an empty chamber? (which could yet again equal DEATH in a firefight). With the bolt open you can feel a difference in trigger tension, and you know your empty.

 

 

To me thats plenty of reason to do it...Plus it feels good to tinker and make something difficult work.

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In my opinion, this LRBHO isn't worth the time or the money. Or the headaches I'm sure folks are having right now.

 

$75.00 for a piece of steel that has to be chopped up, bent and extensively modified before it will work correctly? No thanks.

 

Not that it wouldn't be nice, I just don't see any major benefit.

 

Good luck :smoke:

 

 

I have two of CGW's LRBHO kits on my bench but will leave them sealed in their plastic bags until I see detailed dimensional drawings, photos and directions on how to intstall them. I refuse to use a cutting tool on any part of my Saiga 12's until it is clear what I need to do.

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