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Those who convert without moving trigger group?


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1) There's no such thing as a conversion, where the FCG doesn't get moved forward. If you're not removing the factory FCG and installing a standard AK FCG, then there's nothing being "converted", rea

we should stick a thread where everyone who has ever said "I don't want to convert" only to later praise the conversion can be listed.. this way maybe people can finally understand that the converted

The situation is pretty simple.. there are two types of gun guys (although some are a mixture of the two types..)   type 1) modifies the gun primarily to achieve a certain look.. function is not the

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Im with the OP, the full conversion is just scaaareeee.

 

My biggest concern is drilling away to install the bullet guide. Have there been any bad experiences with this?

 

 

Also, I just realized the CSS conversion kit doesnt include the BG. Is it common to convert and not install the BG?

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for now, just call me Bubba!

 

 

How does it feel? How does it shoot? Does it drop down too low?

 

the trigger feels EXACTLY like yours does....

 

and a bullet guide has NOTHING to do with the REAR of the gun..

 

 

Understood -- I was wondering how the stock feels? Some say it sets too low, was wondering your opinion.

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Im with the OP, the full conversion is just scaaareeee.

 

My biggest concern is drilling away to install the bullet guide. Have there been any bad experiences with this?

 

Actually drilling the two rear pins gave me more trouble than the bullet guide. Probably because I didn't use a quality drill bit, or I just don't know how to use a drill. Also, it was the first time I used a tap when I installed the bullet guide, and I did it perfectly the first time. It sounds much harder than it really is.

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Im with the OP, the full conversion is just scaaareeee.

 

My biggest concern is drilling away to install the bullet guide. Have there been any bad experiences with this?

 

 

I just recently installed the bullet guide, i am not a gunsmith, so i just went very slow with light pressure and drilled the hole, i then did very small slow short turns with the tap and oil and this too went well, i have yet to fire my x39 as now i have cut the barrel shroud and i'm getting ready to thread thye barrel and add a phantom suppressor. IMO i just read these post several times then move ahead forward once I've completed the entire conversion i'll go out to the range.....hope nothing blows up on me

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Im with the OP, the full conversion is just scaaareeee.

 

My biggest concern is drilling away to install the bullet guide. Have there been any bad experiences with this?

 

 

Also, I just realized the CSS conversion kit doesnt include the BG. Is it common to convert and not install the BG?

 

 

Carolina Shooters has the bullet guide kit round or flat trunnion with drill bit, tap and screw all for about $20.

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The factory trigger on the gun is garbage and not worth the value of the metal that was used to create it... I would not buy a Saiga unless I was going to convert it..

 

I disagree, another alternative to a conversion on a bad trigger is just to smooth things out with a little sanding.

 

You can sand the stock trigger contacting points and make it acceptable. Like I said before on this forum, ". I sanded smooth the trigger hook where it contacts the hammer to an oval shape and smoothed off any corners. Than I sanding the point on the hammer where the trigger hook connects to at a 45 degree angel towards the trigger hook. I just smoothed everything out and put a drop of oil and I was done in 10 minutes. It made a big jump in improving the overall smoothness and pull. Its not "great" but now its actually pretty acceptable and much improved than what it was."

 

Unless someone can prove they shoot better with a conversion, its not really all that necessary. You can sand smooth these simple parts without any other tools than a piece of sandpaper.

 

That's my opinion if someone wants to improve their factory gun without doing a full "conversion". Honestly its more practice at the range that makes a better shooter, don't blame the gun to much.

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My THEORY is.. if your rifle shoots GOOD with the FACTORY trigger and linkage.. it WILL shoot BETTER after conversion.. less moving parts = less friction area..

 

I've only done 3 Saigas (5.45x39, 7.62x39, 308), but in ALL 3 I noticed an improvement in FEEL and ACCURACY.. maybe only 1/2 inch in accuracy @ 100 yards.. but it was better.

 

 

Albert

Edited by YWHIC
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Well, today the butt Tapco buttstock and pistol grip came in and I put them on. It feels better than the original stock, of course. For me, cheek weld is very comfortable. I may do some smoothing on the original trigger setup. Honestly, my brother's Yugo trigger IS much better, . . . but this one isn't complete crap. On dry firing, I can keep the sites fixed upon where I'm aiming at with no movement when the hammer is released. Smothing the parts may be good enough for me.

 

At some point in the future, I MAY go ahead and get a G2 trigger w/ parts and do an actual conversion, but I plan on keeping it in this form for a while and fire a few rounds with it.

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The factory trigger on the gun is garbage and not worth the value of the metal that was used to create it... I would not buy a Saiga unless I was going to convert it..

 

I disagree, another alternative to a conversion on a bad trigger is just to smooth things out with a little sanding.

 

You can sand the stock trigger contacting points and make it acceptable. Like I said before on this forum, ". I sanded smooth the trigger hook where it contacts the hammer to an oval shape and smoothed off any corners. Than I sanding the point on the hammer where the trigger hook connects to at a 45 degree angel towards the trigger hook. I just smoothed everything out and put a drop of oil and I was done in 10 minutes. It made a big jump in improving the overall smoothness and pull. Its not "great" but now its actually pretty acceptable and much improved than what it was."

 

Unless someone can prove they shoot better with a conversion, its not really all that necessary. You can sand smooth these simple parts without any other tools than a piece of sandpaper.

 

That's my opinion if someone wants to improve their factory gun without doing a full "conversion". Honestly its more practice at the range that makes a better shooter, don't blame the gun to much.

 

I have a small bucket of factory Saiga fire control groups I would be more than happy to sell... ;)

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Im with the OP, the full conversion is just scaaareeee.

 

My biggest concern is drilling away to install the bullet guide. Have there been any bad experiences with this?

 

 

Yes, but nothing that cant be fixed. When I drilled the hole for my BG, I drilled it too far back as the bit slipped.I drilled a new one and they broke thru together into a 'figure 8" kinda hole that couldnt be threaded. Pix of this are in my gallery here.

 

After panicking and believing I ruined the entire gun, I just found a machine screw that would, after filing the outside threads down slightly, fit into the hole and hold the bg in the proper place. to keep it in there, I used JB weld. I also filed it down flush on top with the contour of the BG, and filed the flat edge a bit for HP rounds. As the bg has pressure holding it down, and the screw holding it from moving back, it has never loosened after thousands of rounds.

 

So, dont be afraid, even if you mess it up, it can be fixed.

Edited by icefire
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Okay guys. An update. Yesterday, I took the rifle out to the range to try it out. Fed and ejected every time [only fired 70 rounds]. The rifle seems to have pretty good accuracy. HOWEVER, . . . . . . . after firing the rifle with the nuetered trigger group, it seems as though I WILL do the full conversion. The trigger is definitely the shortcoming of what would otherwise be a very good rifle. So, I will buy the parts to do the trigger swap and just do it. I DO want to keep the ability to have the bolt hold open.

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Okay guys. An update. Yesterday, I took the rifle out to the range to try it out. Fed and ejected every time [only fired 70 rounds]. The rifle seems to have pretty good accuracy. HOWEVER, . . . . . . . after firing the rifle with the nuetered trigger group, it seems as though I WILL do the full conversion. The trigger is definitely the shortcoming of what would otherwise be a very good rifle. So, I will buy the parts to do the trigger swap and just do it. I DO want to keep the ability to have the bolt hold open.

 

Congrats on the decision!

 

You can put the BHO back in after conversion. I left mine out of my x39 conversion, but did put it back into my first S12 after conversion.

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Ok well I am not scared to do the Conversion, but I have a Q ? Anyone have any pics of a 762 converted but with the sporter stock still attached? Im a college student and extra money comes sparingly. That being said I can afford the quality FCG and PG and BG but I want a quality stock also. I dont want to settle because of funding. So I figured I can do it and leave factory stock until I get the cash ?

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Ok well I am not scared to do the Conversion, but I have a Q ? Anyone have any pics of a 762 converted but with the sporter stock still attached? Im a college student and extra money comes sparingly. That being said I can afford the quality FCG and PG and BG but I want a quality stock also. I dont want to settle because of funding. So I figured I can do it and leave factory stock until I get the cash ?

I dont think the spotter stock will fit your saiga after the conversion,it will work with any or almost any AK stocks.You can find them on any gun shows,e-bay and gunbroker check this side sponsors or and WTS thread

check this thread too

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/40886-step-by-step-conversion-with-pics/

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Ok well I am not scared to do the Conversion, but I have a Q ? Anyone have any pics of a 762 converted but with the sporter stock still attached? Im a college student and extra money comes sparingly. That being said I can afford the quality FCG and PG and BG but I want a quality stock also. I dont want to settle because of funding. So I figured I can do it and leave factory stock until I get the cash ?

I dont think the spotter stock will fit your saiga after the conversion,it will work with any or almost any AK stocks.You can find them on any gun shows,e-bay and gunbroker check this side sponsors or and WTS thread

check this thread too

http://forum.saiga-1...sion-with-pics/

 

The sporter stock will fit but the LOP will be long.

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I got my trigger parts in from Carolyna Supply. Saturday, I hope to use my brother in law's drill press on the rivets and hopefully have the G2 in by the end of the weekend. I'll have to come back later to finishing up the underside with some sort of rust proof paint. Will that grill spray paint work, or should I just wait to have my gunsmith cerecoat the whole receiver?

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I got my trigger parts in from Carolyna Supply. Saturday, I hope to use my brother in law's drill press on the rivets and hopefully have the G2 in by the end of the weekend. I'll have to come back later to finishing up the underside with some sort of rust proof paint. Will that grill spray paint work, or should I just wait to have my gunsmith cerecoat the whole receiver?

 

Spray paint will work fine. Of course, Cerakote or anything similar would make for a better finish. It's really up to you on how much you want to spend. I used engine enamel on one S12, the previous owner of my second S12 used something similar, and for my 7.62x39.....I didn't even bother refinishing the bottom side. :lolol:

 

The spray paint has held up fine for my needs. YMMV

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Well, I completed the project, last night.

 

1. 3/16" bit for the side rivets worked perfectly.

2. Rivets to hold the [stupid] bottom plate on were a pain in the butt, but eventually tapped out.

3. It wasn't until the pins for the trigger and hammer were out that I understood how the retaining bar was useful.

4. A bit tricky working with the spring and getting the pin through the hammer and bolt hold open, but got it.

5. The spring for the bolt hold open was the BIGGEST pain in the butt.

6. Got the trigger in and retaining bar in place with the safety holding it all together.

 

A few things, however. As you may recall, I originally wasn't going to do a trigger conversion, so purchased the collapsing stock/SAW pistol grip [Tapco] set for the non-converted Saiga. After actually taking it to the range, I realized that I had to do the conversion. I got [from Carolyna Shooter's Supply] the trigger group that included their Billet Trigger Guard. LOVE it. However, the pistol grip I have won't work with it. Is the SAW grip used for the non-converted Saiga different than a normal one? Is there a specific pistol grip that must be used with CSS's Billet Trigger Guard?

 

If so, I may have to just cut my losses and sell the pistol grip and stock on gunbroker.

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Im with the OP, the full conversion is just scaaareeee.

 

My biggest concern is drilling away to install the bullet guide. Have there been any bad experiences with this?

 

Actually drilling the two rear pins gave me more trouble than the bullet guide. Probably because I didn't use a quality drill bit, or I just don't know how to use a drill. Also, it was the first time I used a tap when I installed the bullet guide, and I did it perfectly the first time. It sounds much harder than it really is.

 

A trick I've used for drilling on round surfaces is to file them flat first, and center punch them. If you don't have a center punch you can use the side of the file to scar a little "X" that will give the bit a place to grab and help keep you on target. ( too little too late, but maybe next time.)

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