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How to convert a saiga rifle


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#1 Impartial

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 07:14 AM

Here is my tutorial on converting a saiga rifle. I hope this helps.

How to convert a Saiga rifle (adding a pistol grip and moving the trigger forward)

I hope this helps you guys out.

If anyone has any questions feel free to email me

Jason@gunpoints.org

Thanks
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#2 YOT

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 10:54 AM

Good write up with excellent pictures.

"It isn't always being fast or even accurate that counts, it's being willing. I found out early that most men regardless of cause or need aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger and I won't." - The Shootist (John Wayne)

 

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#3 longhorn03

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 12:24 PM

The more how-to-guides the better. Everyone does it a little different and it really does help the more you read about it.

#4 Finslayer

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 02:50 PM

I now have no fear doing a conversion thanks to this thread.

Now just which caliber to get.

7.62 or 5.56

#5 Impartial

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 07:02 PM

I recommend the .223 model, I have my own reasons for that. In NY post ban high cap mags are illegal. So I just use the 10 round magazines with it. Also the .223 is much more accurate. It does however all depend on what you want to use the rifle for. Those a two things to consider. Don't forget there is also .308 and 5.45 I believe.

#6 abz400

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Posted 04 July 2011 - 03:24 PM

somebody needs to make this a sticky for other newbies to learn.i'm going to do my first conversion.

#7 Mokanracer

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Posted 04 July 2011 - 03:50 PM

Thanks for your post. I learned some thing:) I just finished my Saiga 12 and I fought for a long time to get the hold open spring installed. You use a string, thank you for the tip. I have purchased a Saiga 7.62 X 39,,and awaiting delivery, The conversion and parts and procedure appear to look the same as they were for the Saiga 12, Thanks again..

#8 Lugnutz

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Posted 04 July 2011 - 08:14 PM

Great tutorial! Only problem I have with it is the brand of beer you're drinkin'.
"The science of war, if not practised beforehand, cannot be gained when it becomes necessary" Roger of Howden, 12th century cleric and Crusader

#9 TARE

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Posted 05 July 2011 - 12:17 PM

Great write up; I hadn't heard of the dental floss technique until this, thanks for that, wish I knew about it before my first conversion. One thing I would add is that when drilling out the pins, it helps to hold them from spinning via needle nose pliers inserted through the opening in the rear where the butt-stock is installed this saved me a bunch of time cause my pins were spinning and no metal was being removed until I used the pliers, maybe my pins weren't in as tightly as others.

#10 ripcuda

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 04:14 PM

Thanks for the pictorial and write-up. Came in handy yesterday when I did my conversion.

Like TARE mentioned (deja vu)... the dental floss trick for the BHO spring was a big help... and I too had spinning pins while drilling and had to hold them with pliers.

I used a PG nut in the receiver (verses the trigger guard w/ built-in PG nut ) and found when my PG was tightened up, the very rear hole from the relocated trigger plate rivet was exposed. It looks like from your pics it's covered by the PG.
So I put another small black screw there into the bottom of my Tapco folding stock... extra secure now... bonus! Or I guess you could fill it with a black plug.

I also very mildly smoothed out the velcro-looking knurling mark on the receiver and touched it up with the Plasticote Low Gloss Black Engine Block paint (matches very well) when I was painting the bottom. Still noticeable, but much less abrasive.

Good resource!

#11 mizombiekilla

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 06:45 PM

+1 on the floss idea. going to have to try it next time. For me that was the most frustrating part..

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#12 tbizzle

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Posted 23 July 2011 - 10:35 AM

+1 on the floss idea. going to have to try it next time. For me that was the most frustrating part..


Floss idea is great. Luckily someone told me about it when I did my S12 conversion several months back. I can see where that part of the conversion would make you want to bang your head against the wall.

#13 DrFourton

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 01:06 PM

This is one of the best tutorials I've found, anywhere. Great job mate. :)

Edited by DrFourton, 30 July 2011 - 01:07 PM.


#14 Boomsick42

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Posted 31 July 2011 - 10:34 PM

I now have no fear doing a conversion thanks to this thread.

Now just which caliber to get.

7.62 or 5.56



Finslayer, do your self a favor and get your saiga in a traditional caliber. With a 7.62x39 or 5.45 you will have the option of very cheap mags, and way cheaper ammo than 223. I have a x39 and my selection of mags is awesome. Once you install your bullet guide and file your catch a bit, you can get 12dollar steel mags all day. Im pretty sure its the same with the 5.45. To get quality mags for a 223 you are going to shell out at least 20bucks a mag, because there are no military surplus parts for a 223. Also the x39 round will be just fine out to 200yds. Plus way better hard target penatration. I just cant recommend the 223, it seems like a pain in the ass to get good mags for cheap, which is important to me. I guarantee, if you get a 7.62x39 you will be very happy, even at 100yds with open sights.

#15 Impartial

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 05:21 PM

Hey glad you guys got so much use out of the tutorial. I appreciate the compliments. Happy Shooting!

#16 Saiga_Reaper

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 12:29 AM

Thankyou for your effort in making this tutorial. You obviously put a lot of effort in making it clear and detailed. I have done similar tutorials in the world of machinery service, so I have an appreciation for the amount of work and focus involved.

I am looking forward to doing my first Saiga soon!
Wood, Steel, and Leather!!! (I suppose aluminum is ok sometimes...)

#17 Saigasaki

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 06:03 PM

Thanks for posting this tutorial, it is very helpful!

The more the merrier!!!




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