paprotective 362 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Well since my 21" Saiga 308 isn't selling (which is redic..) I have decided to maybe have Janis cut down.. to 18" or 19" and re-crowned.. and rethreaded to the current 17/1 , so i can re-use my Miculek brake which cost me $55... I got a REALLY good deal from a forum sponsor that will pull my barrel, cut, & re-thread and re-pin the FSB for me.. (under $140.. ) he said just to let him know if I want 5/8" or the 17/1 threading.. or maybe 14/1 for something like a AK brake.. the next step would be either to add the SGM quad rail for $85 (which is lightweight polymer).. or the CSS new metal tri/quad for $140 which is 16oz.. and then add a Hogue PG.. and maybe change the stock to the ACE Club with an internal ISA block for like $125.. Should I go with a MagPul CTR on a 'tube' without cutting the tang (or cut the tang)?? So what say the general audience?? 18 or 19 inch?? the 21" is great, but I hear alot about 16" 308's doing the same 'groups' as me.. Albert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Well since my 21" Saiga 308 isn't selling (which is redic..) I have decided to maybe have Janis cut down.. to 18" or 19" and re-crowned.. and rethreaded to the current 17/1 , so i can re-use my Miculek brake which cost me $55... I got a REALLY good deal from a forum sponsor that will pull my barrel, cut, & re-thread and re-pin the FSB for me.. (under $140.. ) he said just to let him know if I want 5/8" or the 17/1 threading.. or maybe 14/1 for something like a AK brake.. the next step would be either to add the SGM quad rail for $85 (which is lightweight polymer).. or the CSS new metal tri/quad for $140 which is 16oz.. and then add a Hogue PG.. and maybe change the stock to the ACE Club with an internal ISA block for like $125.. Should I go with a MagPul CTR on a 'tube' without cutting the tang (or cut the tang)?? So what say the general audience?? 18 or 19 inch?? the 21" is great, but I hear alot about 16" 308's doing the same 'groups' as me.. Albert The primary reason to cut the barrel in my mind is to reduce the front-heaviness. 18" is about the perfect compromise between all the various trade-offs, in my mind. What's the thinking behind the stock alternatives? If you want light and wieldy, I'm not sure you can do any better than the Warsaw K-Var stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 @ JimD.. I have the RPB Poly currently.. and it is LIGHT.. (mine is wrapped in 550 cord).. Maybe I will go Hogue PG and leave the stock alone.. & save some for more 308 ammo.. Then just go with the SGM Tri/Quad and call that end done also.. The cut and threading may also help it fit into my case easier also.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 I'd like to do this with my 308.. but no one has came out with an EASY fix for the Ultimak to get on the 308 Saiga.. You gotta admit the way he cut the SGM to fit the Ultimak SNUG was ingenious.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
N4KVE 14 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 My smith didn't have to pull anything. He cut & threaded the barrel, recrowned, pushed the front site all the way to the gas block, & pinned my supplied 74 brake on, making the total length 16". Total price, $60. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 (edited) Great price.. but I don't have a local 'smith'.. so the $125 quote works for me.. imagine walking into a NJ gun shop with an 'AK' and saying I need the end threaded, braked, and re-pinned.. :blues: :blues: :blues: <<<<<<You get the idea. when I was living in PA probably NOT a big deal... I shoot in NJ alot though.. so the 'pinning' has to remain.. still up in the air on doing it.. anyone else have suggestions on the 18 or 19 length?? Edited May 10, 2011 by YWHIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutchV 2 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Eighteen inches is as short as you can reasonably go before the .308 starts to lose velocity. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 I figured 18 would be a good number also.. Now I gotta to decide.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zakmatthews 14 Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 (edited) I had Cadiz Gun Works cut mine back to 16", thread it, move the front sight back, and refinish it all nice. I love it. I'm pretty sure the velocity loss is negligible. Plus, reputable manufacturers make 16" barreled .308 battle rifles (Springfield M1A Socom, DSA SA58, FN SCAR, etc.) You'll maybe gain around 50-200 FPS with a 18" barrel, if I'm not mistaken. My vote is if you want shorter barrel, go for it. Also, it's more accurate now than it was before it was cut back. I've heard that others have experienced accuracy increases with 16" barrels due to barrel harmonics, blah, blah. Edited May 11, 2011 by zakmatthews Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrutalGardener 205 Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 I've heard people complain about bad muzzle blast when using decent brakes on their 16" barrel rifles. I've had my barrel cut down to 19", threaded for 5/8" and am using the PWS FSC-30 brake, which extremely effective. I don't get any back blast in my face from it. With this brake and a recoil pad on my DPH stock, the rifle shoots like a 7.62x39 mm weapon - very smooth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pbwe 45 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) I've had my barrel cut down to 19", threaded for 5/8" and am using the PWS FSC-30 brake, which extremely effective. I don't get any back blast in my face from it. ..., the rifle shoots like a 7.62x39 mm weapon - very smooth. This will be my barrel length and end treatment; good to know. Edited May 12, 2011 by pbwe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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