200 yard range.. I want a 300 yard Zero.. help??

[paprotective 362]

I have only a 200 yard range.. and want to ZERO my scope at 300..

 

How would I go about that..

 

I have my ballistics info..

 

When ZERO'd at 200 yards (as I currently am)

 

from 200 - 300 I get a 8.5 - 9" drop (per ballistics charts) with my 308 ammo depending on my ammo choice for the day..

 

I figured out I need to shoot about 6 - 6.5" HIGH to get to 300 yards..

 

I have a Nikon 4-12x40 Mil-Dot scope with 1/4 MOA knobs if that matters.. and I know the CLICKS would be 3/4" @ 300 yards..

 

is there a way to ZERO at 300 yards (height wise) without having 300 yards of space.. (max is 200)..

 

Do I just go up 8.3 CLICKS (which at 300 yd / 3/4" setting would be the 6.25" height) ??

 

 

Albert

Edited May 18, 2011 by YWHIC

[Scott Kenny 144]

There are two ways to do it. The first way is to figure out where your 'rising' zero is with a 300m zero. For a .223, that's 30m, but for a .308 it's something like 6 yards.

 

I would set up a target at 30 yards and sight in to hit 1" high at 30 yards. That's a rough 'battle-zero' for a .308 at 300 yards. You should be hitting about 5.5" high at 200 with that setting.

[TxStrat 5]

You can get a 300yd zero on a 100yd range. In your balistics program set your drop table for a 100 yd zero, if your balistics program allows for environmental settings (ie. altitude, pressure, humidity, temp...) and I hope it does because you would be surprised to see how these environmental conditions can alter the drop on a bullet especially when you are shooting out to 1000yds. Make sure all of that is entered correctly then calculate a drop table out to at least 300yds. What ever the balistics program says your drop is at 300yds that's how high you need to hit on a 100yd target. I usually use a graphics program to create a "Zero Target". I place a red dot that's big enough to see, but not too big (I believe in aim small, miss small) then if my drop at 300yds is say 9 inches then I place a red cross hair where the vertical and horizontal lines are exactly 2 inches long and they intersect at exaclty 9 inches directly above the red dot. The reason for the crosshairs is that it gives me a point of reference on how much my elevation and windage is off. I have used this method on calibers from .204 Ruger up to 300 Win Mag and competed successfully (for someone that has never had any formal military or LEO training) out to 1000yds. I have access to a 200yd range and I still use this method becasue it's a lot easier to see bullet holes in paper at 100yds than it is at 200yds for these tired old eyes of mine. If you would like I can use one of my templates and generate a PDF file with a target for you and email it to you if you will shoot me a PM with your email address and all balistics and environmental information.

 

All of this is if you want a 300yd zero and you plan on keeping it there. If you have a 200 yd zero and you want to shoot a 300yd target then what you have said would work...sort of. I am not sure how you got from 8.5-9 inch drop to 6 - 6.5... You said that you get "an 8.5 - 9 inch drop at 300yds with a 200 yd zero which sounds about right (I have almost exactly 9 in of drop on my .308 at 300yds with a 200yds zero shooting a 175gr bullet at 2600fps). 9 inches of drop at 300 yds with 1/4moa per click should be 12 clicks or 3 MOA. The other possibility is to use the mil dots in the scope. 1 mil is 3.6 MOA, so depending on how accurate you need to be, you can use the mil dots and hold a little less than 1 mil dot over the target.

 

 

My brain hurts now......