Born2Ride 1 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) I was just wondering what is the best paint that can be found "local" to paint the metal part of a rifle,not the stock or grips?? I have an old SKS in decent shape but I am about to convert it to a tapco tactical stock that is mossy oak camo and I want to paint the barrel,receiver,etc a satin black..I have always had good luck with Duplicolor high heat ceramic paint in the past,but never applied to a rifle. I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars on ceracote or any high tech finish,I want to make it nice but on a budget..Any suggestions? Thanks! Edited May 18, 2011 by Born2Ride Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RoughRider666 47 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) I was just wondering what is the best paint that can be found "local" to paint the metal part of a rifle,not the stock or grips?? I have an old SKS in decent shape but I am about to convert it to a tapco tactical stock that is mossy oak camo and I want to paint the barrel,receiver,etc a satin black..I have always had good luck with Duplicolor high heat ceramic paint in the past,but never applied to a rifle. I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars on ceracote or any high tech finish,I want to make it nice but on a budget..Any suggestions? Thanks! In all honesty, I use the Rustolium Textured black and I love it! its tough as nails, Ive painted 6 Saiga's and an SKS with it and I LOVE IT! Edited May 18, 2011 by RoughRider666 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
echoside190 127 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 I've always used the duplicolor engine enamel, works well for me and I've never had to redo it from coming off when exposed to any of my gun cleaning products or normal use. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OBITUARY 12 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Have any of you sanded the areas ,prepped,primer,first ? or paint over the park ? How well does it hold up against cleaning solvents ? Just asking cause when i did my 308 I had sanded the bottom prepped,primed,painted with grille paint and baked it.First time solvent hit it paint started coming off easily. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lcswj 0 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 I was just wondering what is the best paint that can be found "local" to paint the metal part of a rifle,not the stock or grips?? I have an old SKS in decent shape but I am about to convert it to a tapco tactical stock that is mossy oak camo and I want to paint the barrel,receiver,etc a satin black..I have always had good luck with Duplicolor high heat ceramic paint in the past,but never applied to a rifle. I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars on ceracote or any high tech finish,I want to make it nice but on a budget..Any suggestions? Thanks! I've used Allumahyde II through Brownell's. It was about $15 for a 12 oz can. You dont need to bake but it does take about 2 weeks to fully cure. i actually left it in my old SUV during the summer when it got about 120 degrees in my Pathfinder. It cured in about 5 days. No promises that you would get the same results. but when it cures, the stuff is tough as nails. Suprisingly durable. Sprays on fairly thick so if ur gun has blemmishes, its great. Comes in a variety of colors. I used the satin black that came out gloss black. I bead balsted the finish with my compressor set at 45lbs and it turned out a perfect satin black. I've never used any of the other colors but I hear they as advertised in terms of their color. I have also used GunKote. Its good stuff too especially if u need something that covers well and goes on thin. U have to bake it and that is a pain in the ass and will piss off ur wife because it will make ur oven and house smell like fresh hell. The easy way was with the Alumahyde II. Its an epoxy spray paint made for guns. Takes a while to cure but when it does it is pretty durable. Keep in mind that no finish will stand up to metal on metal wear such as the receiver on an AK where the safety lever slides up and down causing that smiley scratch. But for just about anything else its really tough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 My converted Saigas were parkerized then finished with Brownells bake-on lacquer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akma 2 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 What do Saigas spray on for their finish? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RoughRider666 47 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 What do Saigas spray on for their finish? ROFL!!!! I think its some kind of wool or fur of somekind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akma 2 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 What do Saigas spray on for their finish? ROFL!!!! I think its some kind of wool or fur of somekind. You mean like the RONCO hair in a can? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JonnyDingDongs 158 Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 In all honesty, I use the Rustolium Textured black and I love it! its tough as nails, Ive painted 6 Saiga's and an SKS with it and I LOVE IT! Isn't it a perfect match? I forgot to grab paint before I did my conversion and ran across a can of that in my garage. If it weren't for the tape line, I'd never have known it was spray-painted! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
supertex 242 Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 In all honesty, I use the Rustolium Textured black and I love it! its tough as nails, Ive painted 6 Saiga's and an SKS with it and I LOVE IT! Isn't it a perfect match? I forgot to grab paint before I did my conversion and ran across a can of that in my garage. If it weren't for the tape line, I'd never have known it was spray-painted! do you use a primer ? if so which one ? thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patriot 7,197 Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II Works great! I've done everything from an AMD-65 to an 1917A1 watercooled with it. VERY good stuff. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS and it comes out perfect! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jhelmuth 3 Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 I'm about to find out just how good Duracoat is.... (going to refiinish my Saiga 12 reciever) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RoughRider666 47 Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 In all honesty, I use the Rustolium Textured black and I love it! its tough as nails, Ive painted 6 Saiga's and an SKS with it and I LOVE IT! Isn't it a perfect match? I forgot to grab paint before I did my conversion and ran across a can of that in my garage. If it weren't for the tape line, I'd never have known it was spray-painted! I think it looks a LOT better than the factory finish and its a lot tougher if you let it cure right. do you use a primer ? if so which one ? thanks You really dont have to with this stuff, you can if you want though, just use a Rustolium primer if yuo want Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jhelmuth 3 Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 I personally like the Duracoat product. (this is what it should look like just prior to applying Duracoat) folowing the Duracoat instructions for prep, mix, and application I applied approx. 36 ml of Combat Black... (here is a sample o the finished product) 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bpipe95 8 Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Firearms should be coated with a firearms coating. Solvents can removed regular paint with out much of a problem. I like moly resin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
clifton 354 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I blast, park, then Teflon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deussne 38 Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Duracoat +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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