yooper14.5 84 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 i think this would be extremely durable and easy to apply. herculiner just rolls on, a couple coats and done. but it might interfere with the safety. please post your thoughts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 How heat resistant is it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Ak-47 49 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I have seen threads about this subject in relation to regular AKS. Seemed to work fine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 im not sure about heat resistance, but it says its made out of polyurethane and rubber granules. but it can take at least as hot as a truck bed gets in a hot summer day, and our F-250's bed has gotton freaking hot on summer days, but its got rhino lining, not herculiner. but it shouldnt make too much of a differance. @lordak47, thanks for the confirmation that it works on ak's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 The resistance of the material to heat would not be my main concern. My concern would be the material inhibiting the metal's ability to cool. Just a thought.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
datrowl 111 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 (edited) Black Bedliner, Black Truck, Texas Summer Sun, Parking Lot with Zero shade = 1 BEELION degrees You would have to make a well thought out attempt to intentionally TRY to get hotter than that... My biggest concern would actually be heat insulation and the bedliner not letting the gun cool itself at a normal rate. Not sure what prolonged exposure to high heats would do to some of these parts.... Would rather try it on something more... disposeable first... take a nice piece of iron pipe.. coat it... bake it at 400 or 450 for an hour and see what that does for ya Evil thinking what I am LOL, just a bit faster fingered than I was at getting the thought out Edited May 20, 2011 by datrowl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 (edited) i would definetly test it on some scap first, mabye if i do that, then ill also heat a uncoated piece of steel, heat them in a oven or somthing, and try to test and record how long it takes too cool. mabye i do this to some pipe and torch the inside of it, and have some water on it and see which steams first. 1/4 inch steel would probably work best with the water test, which i think would be the best test for coling inhibition. Edited May 20, 2011 by yooper14.5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guns Are Great 140 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I saw an ak 47 in a local shop about a year ago and it looked great! and the safety worked well and there was light streak where the safety dimple slides across the receiver instead of bare metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 NO! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Black Bedliner, Black Truck, Texas Summer Sun, Parking Lot with Zero shade = 1 BEELION degrees You would have to make a well thought out attempt to intentionally TRY to get hotter than that... My biggest concern would actually be heat insulation and the bedliner not letting the gun cool itself at a normal rate. Not sure what prolonged exposure to high heats would do to some of these parts.... Would rather try it on something more... disposeable first... take a nice piece of iron pipe.. coat it... bake it at 400 or 450 for an hour and see what that does for ya Evil thinking what I am LOL, just a bit faster fingered than I was at getting the thought out If you've seen my vids.... I do have some fast fingers, lol. OP, I use Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. IF it is applied from about 20" away, it gives a nice textured finish that is close to factory. As long as the metal is scuffed well and all oils are removed, the paint stays on well and holds up to heat. If it comes off after a year or two, take it off with a wire wheel and redo it. Cheap and looks.... well.... I'll let you be the judge of it.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 NO! why not? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
menace667 194 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 A buddy of mine did his bumpers and at teh edges where it ends the stuff is peeling. He tool it back to the place that did it (it is name brand, not knock off herculiner) and they said that it is common to peel at edges, which is why it on truck beds it is prettu much tucked around things and doesnt end at edges. I would imagine that could be an issue with thinks like ejection port and suck with peeling as well. I know Duracoat has a texture option if thats what you are looking for, and it isnt really too expensive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Black Bedliner, Black Truck, Texas Summer Sun, Parking Lot with Zero shade = 1 BEELION degrees You would have to make a well thought out attempt to intentionally TRY to get hotter than that... My biggest concern would actually be heat insulation and the bedliner not letting the gun cool itself at a normal rate. Not sure what prolonged exposure to high heats would do to some of these parts.... Would rather try it on something more... disposeable first... take a nice piece of iron pipe.. coat it... bake it at 400 or 450 for an hour and see what that does for ya Evil thinking what I am LOL, just a bit faster fingered than I was at getting the thought out If you've seen my vids.... I do have some fast fingers, lol. OP, I use Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. IF it is applied from about 20" away, it gives a nice textured finish that is close to factory. As long as the metal is scuffed well and all oils are removed, the paint stays on well and holds up to heat. If it comes off after a year or two, take it off with a wire wheel and redo it. Cheap and looks.... well.... I'll let you be the judge of it.... i like the textured look of that. and the cheapness too. but i like the idea of bedliner more because it WONT come off, regardless of what happens to it. no refinishing ever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 A buddy of mine did his bumpers and at teh edges where it ends the stuff is peeling. He tool it back to the place that did it (it is name brand, not knock off herculiner) and they said that it is common to peel at edges, which is why it on truck beds it is prettu much tucked around things and doesnt end at edges. I would imagine that could be an issue with thinks like ejection port and suck with peeling as well. I know Duracoat has a texture option if thats what you are looking for, and it isnt really too expensive. that concerns me, maybe i buy a sample and then beat the hell out of the edges after putting it on some metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guns Are Great 140 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I think they look damn good, do they hold up to the solvents and oils well? Black Bedliner, Black Truck, Texas Summer Sun, Parking Lot with Zero shade = 1 BEELION degrees You would have to make a well thought out attempt to intentionally TRY to get hotter than that... My biggest concern would actually be heat insulation and the bedliner not letting the gun cool itself at a normal rate. Not sure what prolonged exposure to high heats would do to some of these parts.... Would rather try it on something more... disposeable first... take a nice piece of iron pipe.. coat it... bake it at 400 or 450 for an hour and see what that does for ya Evil thinking what I am LOL, just a bit faster fingered than I was at getting the thought out If you've seen my vids.... I do have some fast fingers, lol. OP, I use Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. IF it is applied from about 20" away, it gives a nice textured finish that is close to factory. As long as the metal is scuffed well and all oils are removed, the paint stays on well and holds up to heat. If it comes off after a year or two, take it off with a wire wheel and redo it. Cheap and looks.... well.... I'll let you be the judge of it.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Heath_h49008 442 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 The thickness of the bedliner, as well as the rubber content, make it a serious NO for the metal parts. It's your gun, and when the heat and Hoppes and whatnot turn it half to goo, and you have to find a way to get it off, it will still be your gun. So, you don't have to listen to me. But haven't you wondered why nobody else does anything but stocks with bedliner? If you want cheap,spray-on and functional, use engine paint. If you want indestructible, use Cerakote. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I've NEVER seen bedliner turn to goo. And I'm not considering this very seriously, I'm just tossing the idea around in my head. And which is stronger, duracoat or ceracoat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Heath_h49008 442 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Cerakote. But it's a more involved prep as well. Any finish will work, longevity and looks are determined by how clean and prepared the surface is, and how crazy you get with the application. I personally use high temp engine paint. It's oil safe, temp safe, and I have a large choice of finishes. YMMV. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
menace667 194 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I've NEVER seen bedliner turn to goo. And I'm not considering this very seriously, I'm just tossing the idea around in my head. And which is stronger, duracoat or ceracoat? From my buddy who does Duracoat (doing my Saiga right now) Cerakoat is considerably "stronger" than duracoat, but is also a shit ton thicker. Duracoat doesnt add a noticeable difference in dimension to your weapon so you can spray things like threads without fear of being unable to screw something back on where as with Cerakoat you cannot. I do not know this as a word of god fact, but thats what I was told.From your idea of the bedliner the thickness of Cerakoat may be exactly what you want, but either way if you want texture he said it can be added to either, so dont hesitate to ask if you go that route. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I'm liking the sound of the cerakote more now. I'm not concerned with thickness of the coating. I just want somthing that can go to hell and back. And I don't know what gun cleaner would do to the bedliner. I know rhinoliner extreme is rated for some serious chemicals, but I don't know about herculiner. Problem is its the only DIY bedliner. And I doubt a shop with the ability to do rhinoliner extreme would do a shotgun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deadeye 325 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 try it tell us how it works. might quiet the action a little. what is the best way to strip it if you dont like it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 (edited) I would have to do a lot if experiments with it on scrap metal before I tried this on somthing I actually value. still, its worth the sample to experiment with. I'll try it with scrap eventually, then let everyone know how the test went. And I have no idea how to strip it, that would be a experiment. Edited May 20, 2011 by yooper14.5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I just feel firearms should have a finish "designed" to be used on a firearm. MolyResin is my first choice for DYI, but there are several others. If you want specific areas to have more grip, there's always grip tape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I just feel firearms should have a finish "designed" to be used on a firearm. MolyResin is my first choice for DYI, but there are several others. If you want specific areas to have more grip, there's always grip tape. Fair enough. I just liked the idea for the durability of it and the fact that it rolls on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raleighsaiga 81 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I always have my trucks done with Line-X, and that is totally inappropriate for guns. It goes on really thick and heavy and will probably do a number of evil things to the way a Saiga is designed to operate. That said, whatever company blamed their crap job on the product is either incompetent or using the wrong product. Line-X does NOT peel at the edges at all. I always get the "above the rails" job, and never, ever have I had a problem with adhesion. Also, the gym equipment built by FreeMotion has all of the traction areas coated with Line-X, and the edges take a lot of abuse in a commercial gym with no peeling whatsoever. If the prep and application is done right, Line-X won't peel. Just a pitch for a great TRUCK product in case anyone was also reading this thinking about trucks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
menace667 194 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I just feel firearms should have a finish "designed" to be used on a firearm. MolyResin is my first choice for DYI, but there are several others. If you want specific areas to have more grip, there's always grip tape. Fair enough. I just liked the idea for the durability of it and the fact that it rolls on. As far as durability Cerakoat and Duracoat are considered permanent solutions once properly cured. My buddy said the only issue you have with either is when people do not let them cure properly and do stupid stuff like spray and then shoot a week later and the coating bubbles, peels, warps, etc... and they blame the product. I was given instructions that when I get mine back not to shoot for a month ( I believe 3 weeks is the recommended time but he likes to error on the side of caution) and then it will stand up to a hammer. He took his wifes Sig and repeatedly beat it on the metal workshop counter edge and it didnt even leave a scuff mark, I was impressed. My wants for it initially were purely cosmetic, but after seeing how strong it is I have high hopes for more than that now. He did warn that the do it yourself products from Duracoat (a lot cheaper if you decide to go this route) were not bad, but you must be extremely careful to follow ALL instructions, Clean the gun of ALL oils and such, and apply in a clean environment which can be hard to come by at a residence. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hobbyshooter 59 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 If you don't like the hurculiner on your gun for whatever reason (lets say, for instance, sand sticks to it ) You are going to have a BITCH of a time trying to remove it to go with something else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gibbles 23 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted May 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 I agree. I'm not going with bedliner. I'll go with cerakote. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AJ Dual 43 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 People have been using bedliner on guns for years now. However, just on the stock or furniture. I've never heard of someone painting the metal with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.