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  • 2 months later...

That woodwork is amazing! Very nice. Reasonably priced.

You wouldent happen to know how to make full length stocks for K98 Mausers or the Schmidt Rubin would ya? Even if I could get a Semi-inletted stock, I could do the final reciever fitting and glass bed the action. Im thinking of a thumbhole version with a small pedesal under the pg and cooling slots under the barrel. They normally sell for $80 plus shipping. But they are more like varmint rifle stocks. Im looking to set up a really nice target rig.

 

After seeing your work, I can picture all of my AKs in US wood!...... :lolol: Very nice man!

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Here it is! THIS is what I want to set up my Schmidt Rubin K-31 But neither Richard's or Boyd's is inletting these for this rifle action. I get wood just looking at this wood! (sigh) I might just have to order the stock as a blank and chop..chop....chop....chop...

 

Ever make one of these?!

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Something to remember about the solid stocked bolt guns, and some full stocked semis - many of them have a lug in the stock that the action is tightened up against. A number of US stock manufacturers omit this and you can tell the difference in more ways than you might think. If you were to adapt the above 10/22 stock for a Schmidt Rubin, you'd have to consider that.

 

As far as inletting stocks goes, remember that some stocks may not have the right amount of wood to clear for the gun of your choice. If the above stock were thich enough in the right areas, I could inlet it for the AK.

 

I have not yet made such a stock as pictured above, but based on my experience making the above it's not all that hard to imagine. One problem would be getting wood in the right size. Most of it's just a wee bit too thin for full length sporter stocks.

 

Oh, for the record, folks, I'm revising my MTO policy due to too many folks having me make stuff for them and then disappearing. Will have more details later, in the meantime I'm up for discussing ideas for future projects, particularly ones that a number of folks are interested in.

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Thanks for the info. I didnt know that some rifles had a lug in the stock, perhaps thats why they dont inlet the more modern stocks for the Schmidt Rubin. BTW the above pictured stock seems to be available for everything except the Schmidt, even Mausers. Maybe thats why. I sure wouldent want to take away from the accuracy of the rifle. Ill do more reaserch on this.

 

I dont blame you for changing the way you charge for custom wood. I would be hopping mad if I spent so much time and effort on a piece, just to get stiffed. Your work is excellent, and anyone needing a custom piece probably wont mind paying in advance. Just dont stop making them....Please!

 

Thanks, you rock man!

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Oh happy day! I did a little bit of online reaserch and I found that stock inletted for the Schmidt Rubin K-31. I must have read it wrong or something. Richard's custom stocks does make them for this action, but it takes 8 weeks and requires a $13 set up charge because its a "rare action". :rolleyes: I think im gonna go for it anyway. Its sweeeeet!

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Hey man, you made an interesting comment about inletting a full rifle stock for an AK. Ever seen that done before? Might be an intersting idea. It wouldent be too tough to lay a barreled reciever in a stock and leave the appropriate cut out for the mag. The catch and triggerguard would have to be modified, but thats no biggie. You would leave the right side and top open ofcourse. After all that work, it might just end up looking like a wood stocked SKS though.....Maybe someone could photo shop this idea? You might be onto something, but Im tired....who knows.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just did this set for a fellow at AKfiles.

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On the full length furniture, I've found that even the raw material wouldn't be cheap. Anyone make gun furniture from basswood? Cause that's what the store has in the correct size. If I did such a thing, it would be a high-end high finish product, but as I'm not equipped or skilled for artistic engraving or checkering, it would end up being more high tech looking than what we see from accross the Pacific. Yet it would be in highly finished wood grain.

Edited by BattleRifleG3
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Although not one myself, I am related to 2 master woodcarvers and they use basswood almost exclusivly to hand carve spearing decoys and ducks(meant more as art pieces than for hunting or spearing although fully capable). IMO the naturally finished and sealed ducks are beautifull and I think it would look great as a gunstock but not sure how it accepts stain. Also they both buy basswood in bulk so i'm sure they're paying far less than one would for a smaller amount. Living in the great north woods probably helps to keep retail prices for basswood(and countless other stock worthy hardwoods) down scince the shit grows like weeds here and doesn't have to be shipped more than a few miles from forest to mill and on to local consumers. I'll talk to either my uncle or my grand father and see what they think about using it for a stock. Both are amazing artists and craftsmen and know more about wood than anyone should be allowed to. It wouldn't suprise me if one of them hasn't already tried it.

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There's ideal and there's workable. Beech gives some of the best end results of any wood I've made furniture from. Birch is fine, probably not the same workability/strength ratio as beech. Oak is good too, the grain's a little thick, but not bad at all. Less expensive than beech, still pretty strong, and a bit lighter. Walnut is lighter still, and is a bit more brittle than either. Not hard to work at all and finishes pretty smooth, just not the strongest in my experience. Maple is softer and more flexible than walnut, could be a good or bad thing, but it's fine. Pine is cheap and easy to work with, but is only strong enough when used in thick segments. It's ok for buttstocks but generally not handguards.

 

Thanks a bunch DD for checking into basswood for me! Most folks I talk to don't know the difference between ideal, good, acceptable, and unacceptable. A lot of woods would work well, just aren't the best, but sometimes you have to take what you can get.

 

If basswood is stronger than pine, I wouldn't have any trouble using it on a full length Saiga stock. My Savage 111G in 300 Ultra mag... that's another story.

Edited by BattleRifleG3
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Sorry BRG3, I didn't get a chance to talk to my uncle or grandfather today but I'll make sure to call them from the company truck at work tomorrow. When you say pine do you mean old growth, tight grain douglas fir, or a chunk of rough cut 2x6 jack pine or something else? The difference in strength, rigidity, clairity, durability, workability ect. is exponentialy varied between types of pine. I also believe species and grain density have a signifigant effect on felt recoil beyond the obvious factor of weight. I have seen your work on this forum and I think you're very talented. I hope you stick with it. Pretty sure I remember reading something about an engineering degree. It shows. Up here there has been talk of dredging up giant old growth logs from the bottom of several local lakes that have been there scince the mid 1800's when floating huge log jams down the mississippi river and through the lakes was a common method of transport from forest to mill, but the dirty hippies start crying about mercury being stirred up or some other crap every time. A few years back some clever dudes took a barge with a boom and a winch out to lake superior and pulled some 200 year old birds eye maple up and were selling it(like friggin hot cakes) for something like $200.00 a board foot.(can't remember exactly but they made a fortune) That was kind of a pointless tangent but thought you'd find it interesting. I once had an the idea of building a thumbhole stock and forearm from cedar and masking portions of it off then sand blasting it, leaving the grain texture on parts of the pistol grip and forearm as a unique alternative to checkering. you've probably seen signs done this way. I know a guy who makes signs like that and could lend some technical assistance. What do you think? Maybe a winter tinkering project. Sorry, I just keep typing whatever pops into my head. I'll make sure to let you know about the basswood tomorrow.

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I chose an oak wood that seemed to be close to the upper handguard I made a while back. Still working on pricing too. The color of the Romak handguards is partly due to laquer which I don't have access to. At the moment I'd probably only offer them unfinished. In the future, I may do something even wilder like make a full set in the style of the original Dragunov.

 

At the moment, I'm going wild on new S-12 handguard designs.

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Cant wait to see it G3!

 

BTW I wanted to ask you if you had any experiance with the stuff thats used on bar tops. Its like a clear two part resin that pours or brushes on and self levels as it dries (unless its on a non-flat surface like an AK stock, then it just runs) I used this on my Romanian stock and front pieces. It came out very nice, but I got a few bubbles and ripples. I sanded the first and second coat out after they had dried and left the third as it was. I spun the pieces on a slow rotissery as they were drying to avoid the resin running off the wood. It looks like the wood is under about a 1/4 inch of glass.

It says on the bottle that this coating will withstand alcohal and gasoline but prolonged exposure to direct sunlight may yellow it. Ever used it on gun stocks?

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Ok, after looking at the picture I posted, its hard to tell the differance because my Saiga is coated with clear too. Here are a few pics of the wood compared to a standard finish AMD PG and the satin finish on my K-31. I was trying to give the wood a deep luster look, but I dunno if the gloss is too much, or if this bar top coating will hold up to the rigors of target shooting. I would like to have at least one of my rifles look like a wall hanger, but because Im tough on them, they never do. Anybody who knows anything about this coating, can you lend some advice?

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I chose an oak wood that seemed to be close to the upper handguard I made a while back. Still working on pricing too. The color of the Romak handguards is partly due to laquer which I don't have access to. At the moment I'd probably only offer them unfinished. In the future, I may do something even wilder like make a full set in the style of the original Dragunov.

 

At the moment, I'm going wild on new S-12 handguard designs.

 

 

I stripped down all my furniture on the SSG, and refinished with linseed oil. The handgaurds are actually pretty much the same color as they appear finished from the factory. The difference in color comes from the stock being laminated, and the HG's being solid. I've tried to figure out how to make some handgaurds that split down the middle and look more like the drag, but I'm not very creative. If you come up with something, post it, I'd like to see it, and if it makes it look cooler, I'm sure I'll buy it eventually. I'll be out of the loop for the next year anyway, and I doubt I'll buy anything in that time. In fact, I don't even know why I'm writing this. Sorry for wasting everyone's time! Tee hee

 

BTW Pistonring, that finish looks pretty nice. I was always told that about 30 coats of linseed or tung oil will look like that, but I've never had the patience to do more than 7-8.

Edited by shaneman153a
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Here's my latest concoction, made for the Saiga-308 on whim due to interest by a past customer. I am accepting dibs, which can include minor alterations for which there is room. This will run $65 shipped to the contiguous US. It's made from beech which I have found to give the finest results of any wood I've worked with.

 

And coming soon for the Saiga-12 (and anything else if you really want it):

Schnabel II!! Or maybe I should call it... drumroll... Schnabel 2000!

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Edited by BattleRifleG3
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Presenting, the latest innovation in Saiga-12 design and technology...

 

Developed from the most popular style of S-12 wooden handguard to date, comes a revolutionary new and improved version. Mixing style, practicality, and bold innovation, this handguard blows away all previous misconceptions of what a Saiga can look like.

 

Presenting the Schnabel two...

 

 

 

 

 

 

...thousand!

post-6-1131253990_thumb.jpg

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That is all some very nice work. And from a guy who quotes john sheridan...outstanding!

 

seriously though....i have a couple questions

 

earlier in the thread you were answering questions about compliance and the trigger group...can you upgrade the triger group on a saiga to the G2 without moving it forward? (i.e. leaving it all still in the overall original configuration?)

 

Additionally, have you made any of those romak style stocks for the .223? Could you do a modified version of that?.....i have something in mind....would have to draw it up, and take a picture to send to you or something.

 

I really like the idea of 922r compliance without moving (upgrading is fine) the trigger group if it can be done.

 

 

thanks in advance.

 

RangerM9

 

Presenting, the latest innovation in Saiga-12 design and technology...

 

Developed from the most popular style of S-12 wooden handguard to date, comes a revolutionary new and improved version. Mixing style, practicality, and bold innovation, this handguard blows away all previous misconceptions of what a Saiga can look like.

 

Presenting the Schnabel two...

 

 

 

 

 

 

...thousand!

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Still working on what the Romak stocks will end up being. Converting a G2 to work in an unconverted Saiga is no problem.

 

For the future reference of all -

Due to a few crappy folks I'm not going to be able to make to order just trusting that folks will follow through and pay for what they order. I'm going to have completed products for sale with regular pricing, and special requests will have an additional fee that will have to be paid before the fact as a deposit before I spend a moment on the project (but then it would be higher priority because that would be a definite sale.)

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