polarticus 5 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 As stated in a previous thread I am having trigger reset problems. The trigger will rotate downwards upon trigger-pull and catch the lip of *2* the hammer. I have to physically take my trigger finger and press forwards towards the front of the gun on the back of the trigger to reset it.e The hammer spring sits on TOP of the axis pin, is that the right position? The only reason for the hammer catching that I can think of is there's not enough downward pressure from the hammer spring to rotate the trigger back after firing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 As stated in a previous thread I am having trigger reset problems. The trigger will rotate downwards upon trigger-pull and catch the lip of *2* the hammer. I have to physically take my trigger finger and press forwards towards the front of the gun on the back of the trigger to reset it.e The hammer spring sits on TOP of the axis pin, is that the right position? The only reason for the hammer catching that I can think of is there's not enough downward pressure from the hammer spring to rotate the trigger back after firing. I'm not going to go research your other thread to see the history on this.... Is it new (how old is it)? Any modifications? The issue will be fixed once you convert it to pistol grip config, so that is the easy way to fix it. If it's new and there are no modifications yet, contact the retailer or distributor for warranty service. If it's a RAAC import, they even pay shipping both ways. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geepelton 105 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Did you put your disconnector spring in your trigger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Just to confirm: you fire a shot, the bolt cycles, you go to fire the next shot, and the trigger is totally slack? If so, the hammer does seem to be getting stuck on the disconnector, as you have shown. Someone in the .223 forum had the same problem. It seemed like his problem resolved itself with some break in, but he might be better able to shed some light on the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dashowdy 141 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) you have the hammer spring in wrong, it is very easy to do I did mine wrong twice on my conversion before I had it set up properly. it would grab and release the hammer once but the tension on the trigger was not enough to reset it. Or you could have a little contact on the front of the trigger if it feels like it is hard to reset then it is contacting part of the trigger as it is coming through the reciever. I also had to file the front of the trigger inside the reciever as it would touch just slightly as it would rotate forward when I pulled the trigger. Edited July 9, 2011 by dashowdy 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geepelton 105 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) Nrvermined Edited July 9, 2011 by Rangerguy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 You must have better eyes than me. That hammer spring looks right from here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SimpleIsGood229 3 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 . . .The hammer spring sits on TOP of the axis pin, is that the right position? . . . Incorrect. The hammer spring ends must rest on the rear of the trigger (each on its respective side) just behind the disconnector. That's why your trigger isn't resetting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 The legs of the hammer spring don't go under the trigger axis pin, do they? In the picture it looks like it's in the right position with the ends over the rear of the trigger and wrapped correctly on the hammer axis pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 Did you enlarge the slot in the receiver to accommodate the larger hook on the conversion trigger? This is where most conversion fire control groups bind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
polarticus 5 Posted July 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 It is converted I have not enlarged anything. It's a tapco G2 trigger. I've been told it's break in, but I wanted to make sure =P The arms of the hammer spring sit on the rear of the trigger with the length of the wires going over TOP the axis pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spikester 93 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 If its converted it looks like there are too many parts in there to me. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) Ditto. Edited July 12, 2011 by Jetmech Quote Link to post Share on other sites
icefire 10 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 If its converted it looks like there are too many parts in there to me. I agree. Did you take everything out before you installed the new TG? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
modrisco 16 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 If its converted it looks like there are too many parts in there to me. +1 Something about this FCG looks very wrong, if indeed it is "converted" as the OP states. Looks more like the default sporter Saiga FCG. I wonder if the OP could perhaps provide some additional side profile photos of the FCG from outside the receiver? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 It could be a conversion that doesn't require the standard AK FCG like if he used a Tapco T6 Saiga stock. I don't know if that's what they look like from this angle, but it's possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BKLYN_C 14 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) Everything in that picture looks just as it supposed to be right out of the factory. The hammer surface where it engages with disconnect, where you "2" mark line is. Take a file and shave off that little rib left over from casting and goes along the middle of the hammer. Edited July 13, 2011 by BKLYN_C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
polarticus 5 Posted July 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 Everything in that picture looks just as it supposed to be right out of the factory. The hammer surface where it engages with disconnect, where you "2" mark line is. Take a file and shave off that little rib left over from casting and goes along the middle of the hammer. Good thinking. I'll attempt to get some better photos of it for y'all to look at. I appreciate the help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dieb4iwake 60 Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 im not sure if this is the problem but you say it is converted, IF it is converted you def. have too much stuff left in there i copied ur pick and highlighted the stuff you need to remove Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 If the gun is restored, where is the pistol grip nut? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
modrisco 16 Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) There seems to be a number of different meanings to the idea of converting a Saiga. No disrespect, but there's no such thing as a conversion without moving the FCG forward. You can replace the sporter stock with a T6 Saiga stock, but if you're not removing the factory FCG and installing a standard AK FCG, there's nothing really being "converted". Edited July 14, 2011 by modrisco 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spikester 93 Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 Have you installed the Tapco G2 trigger in a stock rifle with the trigger in the stock position, yours still has the stock wishbone. I don't think it will work with a G2 trigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BKLYN_C 14 Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Everything in that picture looks just as it supposed to be right out of the factory. The hammer surface where it engages with disconnect, where you "2" mark line is. Take a file and shave off that little rib left over from casting and goes along the middle of the hammer. Good thinking. I'll attempt to get some better photos of it for y'all to look at. I appreciate the help. This problem has been common with Izhmash hammers since they introduced AK74 pattern. Never seen it happen to Tula rifles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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