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trigger assembly questions,woes & rambles.


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As stated in a previous thread I am having trigger reset problems. The trigger will rotate downwards upon trigger-pull and catch the lip of *2* the hammer. I have to physically take my trigger finger and press forwards towards the front of the gun on the back of the trigger to reset it.e

 

The hammer spring sits on TOP of the axis pin, is that the right position?

 

The only reason for the hammer catching that I can think of is there's not enough downward pressure from the hammer spring to rotate the trigger back after firing.

post-27266-0-48039700-1310175442_thumb.jpg

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As stated in a previous thread I am having trigger reset problems. The trigger will rotate downwards upon trigger-pull and catch the lip of *2* the hammer. I have to physically take my trigger finger and press forwards towards the front of the gun on the back of the trigger to reset it.e

 

The hammer spring sits on TOP of the axis pin, is that the right position?

 

The only reason for the hammer catching that I can think of is there's not enough downward pressure from the hammer spring to rotate the trigger back after firing.

 

 

I'm not going to go research your other thread to see the history on this....

 

Is it new (how old is it)?

Any modifications?

 

The issue will be fixed once you convert it to pistol grip config, so that is the easy way to fix it.

 

If it's new and there are no modifications yet, contact the retailer or distributor for warranty service.

If it's a RAAC import, they even pay shipping both ways.

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Just to confirm: you fire a shot, the bolt cycles, you go to fire the next shot, and the trigger is totally slack? If so, the hammer does seem to be getting stuck on the disconnector, as you have shown. Someone in the .223 forum had the same problem. It seemed like his problem resolved itself with some break in, but he might be better able to shed some light on the problem.

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you have the hammer spring in wrong, it is very easy to do I did mine wrong twice on my conversion before I had it set up properly. it would grab and release the hammer once but the tension on the trigger was not enough to reset it.

 

Or you could have a little contact on the front of the trigger if it feels like it is hard to reset then it is contacting part of the trigger as it is coming through the reciever. I also had to file the front of the trigger inside the reciever as it would touch just slightly as it would rotate forward when I pulled the trigger.

Edited by dashowdy
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If its converted it looks like there are too many parts in there to me.

+1

Something about this FCG looks very wrong, if indeed it is "converted" as the OP states. Looks more like the default sporter Saiga FCG. I wonder if the OP could perhaps provide some additional side profile photos of the FCG from outside the receiver?

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Everything in that picture looks just as it supposed to be right out of the factory.

 

The hammer surface where it engages with disconnect, where you "2" mark line is. Take a file and shave off that little rib left over from casting and goes along the middle of the hammer.

Edited by BKLYN_C
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Everything in that picture looks just as it supposed to be right out of the factory.

 

The hammer surface where it engages with disconnect, where you "2" mark line is. Take a file and shave off that little rib left over from casting and goes along the middle of the hammer.

 

Good thinking.

 

I'll attempt to get some better photos of it for y'all to look at. I appreciate the help.

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There seems to be a number of different meanings to the idea of converting a Saiga. No disrespect, but there's no such thing as a conversion without moving the FCG forward. You can replace the sporter stock with a T6 Saiga stock, but if you're not removing the factory FCG and installing a standard AK FCG, there's nothing really being "converted".

Edited by modrisco
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Everything in that picture looks just as it supposed to be right out of the factory.

 

The hammer surface where it engages with disconnect, where you "2" mark line is. Take a file and shave off that little rib left over from casting and goes along the middle of the hammer.

 

Good thinking.

 

I'll attempt to get some better photos of it for y'all to look at. I appreciate the help.

 

This problem has been common with Izhmash hammers since they introduced AK74 pattern. Never seen it happen to Tula rifles

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