gregomega 929 Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 (edited) So ive had numerous people ask me about this and it seems to be a topic some are interested in. I do not claim this info as my own. My brother gave me the idea about a year ago and I did what I could to make it happen. So here we go: Parts & Tools used: Ace internal receiver block or Krebs Ace stock adapter(if you wanna keep the tang). Ace folding mechanism wood stock from MarkW1 1" wood screws Dremel with cone attachment screw gun wood saw I took a standard Romy/Bulgy? wood stock and wanted to have it fold. Below is the before and after Pic Step one: saw the part of the stock off that goes into the receiver. If your cut doesnt come out as flat as possible, you can sand it flat like I did. Step two: The wood screws have a taper near the head of the screw so I dremeled out the inside of the folding mech so the screws would sit closer to the adapter allowing it to properly close. I also had to grind some of the metal off of the other side of the adapter for screw clearance. (Its possible to find a better way to do this im sure) Step three: Match the holes on the ace folder to the wood stock and mark your holes. When you think there good, Match them up again to be sure. A third time if necessary. Then attach the ace folder to the stock with your screw gun. You can use a screw driver but it might not tighten up as much as you'd like and could cause wobble problems in the future. Final step: Make sure the folder closes properly. If not grind some metal off of the ace folder&/screws until it properly closes. This is what you should end up with: Hope this helps some of you guys out. This same method can be used on POLYMER stocks aswell. Greg Edited July 18, 2011 by AZG 8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stnls1911 55 Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 (edited) AWESOME POST Thank you, it looks like all of the hardware adds 1-2" L.O.P. maybe?? ETA: This should be a sticky Edited July 19, 2011 by stnls1911 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 AWESOME POST Thank you, it looks like all of the hardware adds 1-2" L.O.P. maybe?? ETA: This should be a sticky Thank you much! I try to pay it forward as much as I can. 15/16ths with the ace internal rec block, prolly 1-2" with the krebs adapter given you'll still have the tang with that one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 thats pretty cool, i plan to do the same on a draco sbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 thats pretty cool, i plan to do the same on a draco sbr Thanks. Me too, just need to get mine engraved and I'm good to go Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Katana 4 Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Has anyone tried doing that with this stock? http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?productid=16844&cat=283&page=3 I'm not really at the level of gunsmithing where I'm comfortable cutting up my receiver, and this seems like it would make a decent alternative to a true AK 100 stock if it would work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted August 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Has anyone tried doing that with this stock? http://www.k-var.com...&cat=283&page=3 I'm not really at the level of gunsmithing where I'm comfortable cutting up my receiver, and this seems like it would make a decent alternative to a true AK 100 stock if it would work. it would work. Just saw off the folder part and screw the ace folding mechanism into the stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
getitat 609 Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Hello Matt at IronWood said it would be no problem and no extra charge to produce stocks without the tang relief on the top. I'm thinking that along with mortising the attachmwnt plate to "set in" to the end of the stock would make for a slick looking installation. JMHO.... -guido 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Cool! I tried to do something similar with a Tapco polymer stock that was going to go on my Norinco Hunter project, but it was supplanted by a regular Ace stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKMSF 6 Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 (edited) This is AWESOME! I have been thinking about this same project idea for a few months now and I am glad to see it works! Would it be possible to cut off a bit of the stock past the tang section so there is no LOP increase with the folding mechanism installed? I quite like the standard AK stock length as it is, being 5'6". ETA: Does this clear the side rail if I was to have it fold to the left? Edited September 16, 2011 by AKMSF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
termpred 3 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 How is the lockup on these in both the folded and unfolded conditions? Is it dependent on the folding mechanism and not the stock? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKMSF 6 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Well, I would recommend AGAINST using Laminated wood stocks for this, mine cracked within 20rds at the range. Going to try a plum stock now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I've just gotten all the parts to do that. I was trying to make up my mind for right or left folding. Any chance we could get a picture of how it sits folded? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Well, I would recommend AGAINST using Laminated wood stocks for this, mine cracked within 20rds at the range. Going to try a plum stock now. Interesting. Now I'm going to have to get back to tinkering with my setup. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Well, I would recommend AGAINST using Laminated wood stocks for this, mine cracked within 20rds at the range. Going to try a plum stock now. I was thinking rather than use wood screws get some steel scrap ~1/8" and fold it into a bracket shaped similarly to the upper & lower tangs and wrap it around the end. This would bolt to the hinge as normal without countersinks, and if painted black would look sorta authentic. It would also help the tang recess on the top to not look stupid. Piloting holes would be a good idea too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 This same method CANNOT be used on POLYMER stocks. Just wanted to add that Ive seen the poly stock ace folder on another forum but am not sure of the process. So As far as the Poly stocks go, I wouldnt use them. Has anyone tried doing that with this stock? http://www.k-var.com...&cat=283&page=3 I'm not really at the level of gunsmithing where I'm comfortable cutting up my receiver, and this seems like it would make a decent alternative to a true AK 100 stock if it would work. it WILL NOT work....as of right now. I spoke too soon on this one, not sure if its compatable. Everyone else please dont use the polymer stock unless you'd like to figure it out yourself. Then you could post it up. I am in the process of figuring it out so, just a caution. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Well, I would recommend AGAINST using Laminated wood stocks for this, mine cracked within 20rds at the range. Going to try a plum stock now. My method isn't perfect. Maybe pre drill the holes so the wood doesn't split. Mine was on my Saiga 12 and I have shot slugs, buckshot, pretty much all thats out there and have had not cracking or anything. I don't know. This was just what I did and it worked for me. The length of the screws might play a roll aswell. Well, I would recommend AGAINST using Laminated wood stocks for this, mine cracked within 20rds at the range. Going to try a plum stock now. I was thinking rather than use wood screws get some steel scrap ~1/8" and fold it into a bracket shaped similarly to the upper & lower tangs and wrap it around the end. This would bolt to the hinge as normal without countersinks, and if painted black would look sorta authentic. It would also help the tang recess on the top to not look stupid. Piloting holes would be a good idea too. I would encourage you to try new and better ways to make it work. My way isnt the best. This was just something I threw together. I wanted something and did the best I could to make it happen. People kept on asking me how I did it so I posted this up. But please, modify your parts at your own risk. As I said, this method isnt perfect, but hasnt failed me or my S12 yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 And if anyone has any better methods or something to add to improve this, please speak up and share what you've got. Pics are nice too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 It will be a month or two before I am likely to get mine done, but when I do, I will take pics. I think I will tilt my stock down a couple of degrees while I am at it, to annoy the tromix fans. (Ok, actually to fit me better) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 Just tell them it's to clear the charging handle if you fold it to the right! That was the big problem I had when I did this with a Tapco polymer stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 See I haven't had that problem either, but my stock was also wood so. Have any pics? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Try an industrial screw store, you need the screw in inserts that take machine screws. These are small cylinders that have flutes on the outside to hold in the wood and they have machine screw internal threads You will get many times the holding power, and they can be used to repair the stock if it is split, just open the split and use Gorilla glue repair the stock and anchor the inserts. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 (edited) Edited October 28, 2011 by DrThunder88 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted October 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 See I haven't had that problem either, but my stock was also wood so. Have any pics? A laminate stock like AKMSF had might be more susceptible to splitting (de-laminating I imagine) than a solid wood stock like yours. I suspect that any wood screw or threaded insert could put the wrong kind of stress between the layers and risk glue failure. Oh, ok. Sorry I misunderstood. I see now. Thanks. Yeah that would be a problem. Good looking out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Well, I couldn't find any 10-32 machine screws long enough to use on my poly stock version of this project at the local hardware store. My order from McMaster-Carr should be here on Tuesday though. And the laminated beater stock I ordered off GB just arrived. I'm very excited about this project! Good idea, AZG! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Well, I couldn't find any 10-32 machine screws long enough to use on my poly stock version of this project at the local hardware store. My order from McMaster-Carr should be here on Tuesday though. And the laminated beater stock I ordered off GB just arrived. I'm very excited about this project! Good idea, AZG! Thanks. Hope your project turns out well. dont forget to post pics when you're done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Saigasaki 0 Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Anything new about these folding stocks? Did anyone tried the k-var one? Just looking into getting one myself. Thanks!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Anything new about these folding stocks? Did anyone tried the k-var one? Just looking into getting one myself. Thanks!! Nothing new on my end. Stick to solid wood stocks. Laminated might work if you pre drill holes but has otherwise been known to crack and I don't recommend it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 (edited) My laminate prototype is two or three days from completion. Adding time for testing and video editing puts a final date in the next week or so. The polymer versions--Bulgarian and Tapco--are ready to be used, but I'm waiting for the laminate to get done so I can test them all at once and include the procedures in the same video. Edited November 11, 2011 by DrThunder88 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 aahh snap, video! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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