gregomega 929 Posted December 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 (edited) Almost there... then disaster strikes. I was tightening it down when one of the holes stripped and the wood screw just came out. Any tips on how to fill/build up the hole again so I can try again, maybe with a longer screw? One of the screws is in there good, I used an AK stock screw, they are pretty big with some good threads. try and find a screw with bigger threads maybe?. When you pre drill, the holes should only be close to 1/3 the circumference of the screw. you are just allowing a small amount of room so the wood doesnt split which I have not read about anyone having splitting issues with solid wood stocks. Any pics? Theres also a guy selling stocks cheap if you need a new solid one. theres only one I think, the rest are laminated. cheap anyway Edited December 14, 2011 by AZG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKMSF 6 Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 So here's what I did: I filled in the hole with gorilla glue and some thin wood scraps I had, waiting for that to solidify, and tomorrow I'll get a new wood screw, longer than the regular stock screws, but shorter than the 2.5" screws I bought which are WAY too long. Thinking maybe 1.5" as that will reach through the 1" deep repair site and into some undamaged wood for a better hold. I will finish this wood folder project if it's the last thing I do! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKMSF 6 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) Took a gamble and used the stock screw from my fixed stock... DONE. Edited December 15, 2011 by AKMSF 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 That looks really good. What's your strap say? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 How did I miss this? Well done! Kudos on seeing it through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKMSF 6 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 That looks really good. What's your strap say? "This Machine Kills Fascists"- in Russian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 I have been mulling the same idea with a polymer AK 100 stock, but I was concerned that there would not be enough plastic left after cutting off the internal block portion to securely fasten it to the ace folding mechanism. The idea I had was to take the butt plate off and fill the front up with epoxy to a depth of 3-4", let it cure and then drill for the attachment holes. I will try it as soon as I pick up the stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Tried digging it out, it still is not solid enough to screw into but it has bonded to the plastic of the stock. Not coming off. I'm waiting on DrThunder88's response as to how he got the poly to work, then I might try one of the K-Var polymer stocks on scratch n' dent clearance. Have you tried using regular slow cure epoxy? The type that is clear and pourable. I would think that stuff would setup like rock and be more than capable of handling the stress. Just an idea. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) I have been mulling the same idea with a polymer AK 100 stock, but I was concerned that there would not be enough plastic left after cutting off the internal block portion to securely fasten it to the ace folding mechanism. The idea I had was to take the butt plate off and fill the front up with epoxy to a depth of 3-4", let it cure and then drill for the attachment holes. I will try it as soon as I pick up the stock. Sounds...familiar. I suspect that, with some judicious notching on the inside of the stock, a 1" epoxy plug would suffice. The next time I do a poly stock, I intend to pour a 1" plug and use some sort of steel bearing surface inside the stock to tighten the machine screws against. Edited January 2, 2012 by DrThunder88 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) As requested by the OPhere is how I did mine: http://forum.saiga-1...318#entry733318 Edited February 13, 2012 by GunFun 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Cool! Nice work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Thanks. Once the ferrule is painted and the stock is stained it will look like it was an OEM option. I don't have any fear about the wood splitting this way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ItsAllCreated 59 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 You definenitly want to drill holes into your stock for the screws before you put the screws in. Its highly likely the stock will split if you don't. I used a solid wood Bugarian set with standard AK fixed stock screws for mine and it worked perfect. I cut about 3/4th a inch behind the tang of my stock (equal to the thickness of the ACE Folding Mec) so that me length of pull would be standard AK Length. The set-up is solid as a rock. I tried everything (except bashing it into the ground) to get it to come loose and it didnt. Im sure you can break and wood stock if you wanted too, but as far as Im concerned its going to hold-up very reliably if you do it right. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 That looks very nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 You definenitly want to drill holes into your stock for the screws before you put the screws in. Its highly likely the stock will split if you don't. I used a solid wood Bugarian set with standard AK fixed stock screws for mine and it worked perfect. I cut about 3/4th a inch behind the tang of my stock (equal to the thickness of the ACE Folding Mec) so that me length of pull would be standard AK Length. The set-up is solid as a rock. I tried everything (except bashing it into the ground) to get it to come loose and it didnt. Im sure you can break and wood stock if you wanted too, but as far as Im concerned its going to hold-up very reliably if you do it right. Much cleaner looking than mine. Great job man! How much did you cut your stock to compensate for the extra LOP? AZG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 for mine, I took 5/8" past the receiver line. If you want to preserve the anngle make sure to cut perpendicular to the tang, and not to the receiver line. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 for mine, I took 5/8" past the receiver line. If you want to preserve the anngle make sure to cut perpendicular to the tang, and not to the receiver line. Sorry, I just saw your thread. Great job. Not sure how I missed that one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) Found this (not mine) on another forum, I asked the guy to describe his method: Basically, I sawed the tab off the poly and used a belt sander to true up. I then took a reartrunion sawing it off flat to weld ont a flat 1/8' piece of metal using the top inlet of the stock for a guide. I then added a flat strap 1/2'" wid to the bottom and welded it to the flat metal ooked like a two tang trunion. The screws come in from the back so I drilled the holes in the metal and had to drill the stock for relief for the screw heads. I did carve and drive in and glue a piece of wood because the bottom tang hole was too thin to hold anything. Here are a couple of pics that may help. Got a few more pics Edited March 30, 2012 by AZG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrThunder88 912 Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Looks good! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 I've just finished the refinishing on mine. Very hard to get the color to show up indoors or on my crummy phone. There will be more pictures in my project thread that is linked above in a minute or two. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Found another guys mod for a 100 series copy. Stock is from hongkong for airsoft but is suprisingly similar to the real deal. Here are a few side to side pics of the airsoft stock and the arsenal one sold by k-var: Stock from ebairsoft .com Disclaimer: not my info, just sharing what someone else did, do this at your own risk/expense. PARTS: ACE rear stock adapter $40 StormWerkz folding mechanism: $55 (I like better than ace b/c it locks in closed and open positions) 3/8”thick 1.5”x1.25” aluminum plate: $20 (bought online, but im sure you can get it for a ¼ of that price) ONLY NEEDED IF YOU LIVE IN CA TO MAKE OAL WHEN FOLDED OVER 26” A few tools needed are: 19/32 drill bit Pin punches Dead blow hammer or Rubber mallet Stainless steel bolts (2) #10-24m x ¾” #10 counter sink bit Tap and die kit Drill Press or hand drill and some talent The stock is almost identical, even the plastic used is heavy. The 2 major differences are the quality of the latch part that locks it closed against the receiver (not using that with stormwerkz Folding Mech), and the part where the 4.5mm pin would go (and that is getting cut anyway!) So now we have to disassemble the stock to remove and modify the mounting block. Once out, clamp it and get the hack saw. It is pretty decent aluminum block, this will work great for tapping theads. Once cut finish off with hand file and sand paper. Make sure it’s a level cut. This will be screwed to the folding mech. Next you have to drill some new holes in the Stormwerkz folding mech since the ones that come are horizontal and we don’t have a thick enough stock. You need to do some measuring here and figure out where you need them drilled precisely. Make the holes large enough for #10 bolts to move freely and finish off with the counter sink bit so they fit flush and the mechanism can close. Next go back to the cut aluminum mounting block that came from the airsoft stock and put it in the vise cut side up. Place the folding mech over it and use a center punch to mark the centers of the holes to be drilled and tapped. Use a #10-24 tap. Reassemble the stock with the block in place, and attached to folding mech: Edited May 31, 2012 by AZG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Now we have to drill, shave, and paint the 3/8”x 1.5”x1.25” aluminum plate. Using a method similar to marking holes in the folding mech, you need to get an imprint of the ace stock adapter to match up the holes: Place the paper template over the aluminum block, mark your holes and drill: Be sure to test the fit the screws in the new holes to make sure you drilled them straight before going any further: Unfortunately, my drill moved slightly making the plate stick out more on one side of the receiver when it was mounted, so I needed to do a little extra grinding with the belt sander. Since you are adding some thickness between the folding mech and the stock adapter you need to get longer screws. Once it fits and the corners are smooth, just prime and paint. I used flat black spray-paint to match the color of the parts, assemble and your done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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