NickWhite 7 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Finally broke down and decided to convert. I got this one: http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-451/SAIGA-RIFLE-CONVERSION-KIT/Detail And I have a question on drilling. Everyplace I've looked tells me to drill out two pins that are right nex to eachother right above the trigger but I don't have those pins. The only pins I have are one above the mag release and one just infront of the bolt catch. Are those what I drill? Any help will be appreciated! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
layer 0 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Presuming you have a 308 since this is the 308 forum, no. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
layer 0 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Look this over Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Yea .308 my bad. Thank you, it's just those pins. But will I need a new disconnector spring? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Can I go by the hardware store and just get a spring? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Can I go by the hardware store and just get a spring? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) Um.. on the 308 there is 2 rivets and spot welds (holding the bottom plate) in the middle next to the trigger.. The rivets will go easy.. the spot welds.. good luck with them.. mine were a PITA.. There are no PINs on the sides to drill-out on the 308's.. they are metal GRAY pins that hold the FCG/Trigger group in.. and you MUST reuse them.. I usually take the GUTS out first.. then remove the bottom plates when coverting my Saiga's.. There is 1 retainer wire holding the FCG in... it goes on the LEFT side when looking from the BACK/Buttstock end.. Get the wire off the rearward/back PIN and then some of the FCG will fall out in your hand.. plenty of info here in the 308 section.. just dig in for a few pages.. Edited July 22, 2011 by YWHIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 SPOT WELDS? God dammit.. Thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleTapDrew 4 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) Best way I found to get rid of the spot welds on the Klinton plate is take your dremel (or file, if you are really patient), and grind the welds down to where the plate very thin then you can break it off, smooth out the spot welds remaining on the actual receiver and paint over the grind marks. That way you don't need to put any extra holes in your receiver. You re-use the factory hammer spring, and the kit you got contains the new disco. spring with the trigger. Edited July 22, 2011 by DoubleTapDrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Berzerker2 19 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) Best way I found to get rid of the spot welds on the Klinton plate is take your dremel (or file, if you are really patient), and grind the welds down to where the plate very thin then you can break it off, smooth out the spot welds remaining on the actual receiver and paint over the grind marks. That way you don't need to put any extra holes in your receiver. You re-use the factory hammer spring, and the kit you got contains the new disco. spring with the trigger. Yeah that's great advice about the spot welds. I did it that way too and once you get it paper thin above the spot welds, you can just twist it a few times and it's off and like DoubleTap said no unnecessary holes to contend with. I went on Dinzags website and got all the parts I needed plus a great list of how to's for the conversion. Yeah the .308 is the easiest to convert as long as all the trigger and PG holes are there. Have fun... Edited July 22, 2011 by Berzerker2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 What's a klinton plate? Can you post pictures. I'm crazy confused. Haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
layer 0 Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 Bill Clinton, as in AWB. The plate on the bottom with the trigger guard has to come off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 Gotcha. How can I tell if I need to drill the pistol grip and all that stuff besides taking it off. This is the part Im confused about. After I take off the plate what do I do next? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mtjccmotel 12 Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) Before you start the conversion read the instructions/walk-throughs/guides completely. It will make more sense as you proceed through the conversion. The 308 is relatively easy provided your take your time, be patient and thorough. As to being able to tell if the pistol grip hole is there without removing the plate and trigger guard. Just take the guts out (fire-control group)and look at the bottom of the inside of the receiver, if I remember correctly you should be able to see if the pistol grip hole is cut out or not. The links provided earlier will give you good information. Edited July 23, 2011 by Noob308 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 if you look INTO the receiver from the TOP you will see something like this.. the SQUARE hole to the RIGHT is for the pistol grip nut.. Here is the approx way to SHOW you what to do on the bottom Clinton Plate and Trigger Guard removed.. Read the FORUMS people.. whats the old Vimeo video.. go to CSS website and watch Greg do it.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) Heres some more pics from my 5.45 conversion.. The FACTORY trigger is normally in the FAR right hole.. the 2nd right sq is for your new AK pistol grip nut/grip. There is 2 HAMMERs.. The new Tapco G2 is TAPED for me to GRIND to the correct width to allow me to use the BHO feature And again.. SAVE the 2 steel/gray trigger groups pins.. (don't drill or grind them) Edited July 23, 2011 by YWHIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 If I wasn't on my phone I would look 4x as hard. But my phone isn't the fastest phone, and I'm not the most patient person. But I did try looking on the forums and google and all that. But I was under the impression that the S308 is different from all the others because I was Seein guides saying "guides for 5.56 & x39" and no S308. Last question for now.. That trigger plate, is that being reused or thrown out? Thank you guys for the help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 the Clinton plate (thing you remove from bottom of receiver) is THROWN OUT.. The trigger guard you can salvage or just buy a new 1 for like $18 from CSS.. The other difference is you need a 6mm washer (Hdepot) on the supplied Tapco G2 TUBE when you goto put the FCG back in.. this will keep the HAMMER SPRING leg from jumping into the FCG and causing trigger reset issues.. Heres the 3 I had done.. 762x39, 545x39, S308. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 Those are some good looking rifles. Is the Clinton plate just to hide the pistol grip nut hole and original trigger hole? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 yes. correct.. to cover the holes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 Oh nice. That's awfully convenient. And the biggest problem would be the spot weld? I just plan on using a cut off wheel on my dremel and slowly wind it down. And someone mentioned a paint pen to cover the grind marks. What color would match the factory color? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 um.. I used $0.99 walmart FLAT BLACK.. taped the receiver up leaving the bottom open for the paint.. put tape over the open HOLES from the inside.. and paint away.. covers the GRAY bottom (from plate removal) just fine.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 And it blends alright? I don't really care about the bottom matchin cause no one looks down there. Thanks buddy for all your help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Update: got the FCG out and all that, the Clinton plate is off (what a pain that was) and it's painted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 nice.. congrats.. take your time.. and unless you bought the Dinzag 308 FCG, make sure you get the 6mm flat washers from home depot as I mentioned above to center the Tapco G2 FCG in the SLOT and also reduces the likelyhood of the HAMMER spring from jumping into the FCG.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mephis 82 Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 The other difference is you need a 6mm washer (Hdepot) on the supplied Tapco G2 TUBE when you goto put the FCG back in.. this will keep the HAMMER SPRING leg from jumping into the FCG and causing trigger reset issues.. Not to buck what you're saying by any means but just stating my own experience here. I didn't use a washer, and I've shot my 308 extensively without that ever being an issue. Although I did put a slight bend in the hammer spring to keep it on the trigger, as it's a general practice for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Thank you for the help, I'm all done and I love it. It looks sharp. Is there a way to keep the trigger from moving back and forth? I forgot the BHO tab in the build and the safety doesn't do anything bit I don't mind either one of those. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mtjccmotel 12 Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 If your safety isn't working read the pinned safety section. I would strongly recommend getting it corrected, before taking the gun out. It is not complicated to fix, if you have access to welding/brazing. If not buy a safety that has been fixed. Even if you feel comfortable with a gun that is not functioning correctly, keep in mind that someone in the future could get a hold of the firearm. There is no room for (accidental shootings), especially with a 308. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 That's very true Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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