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New "How to Thread an AK Barrel" video posted!


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Hey guys

So, I posted a video documenting how I threaded my Saiga barrel (mistakes and all), basically using information I pulled from this forum, so I thought I'd post it here so others can potentially benefit. If you watch, please let me know if you see any gross errors, and I'll do my best to fix them with commentary on the vid.

 

Thanks everyone.

-noBuzzkillin

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_2VeQ5owrs

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Good gravy, man. You have quite a following on YouTube! My Saiga muzzle threading video has been up for months and it has fewer than half of the comments yours does! Actually, you made the same mistake I did in not threading your TAT far enough soon enough, but they apparently work just fine without those threads.

 

Good work!

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Thanks for the video. I will be threading a few when my dies come in from Dinzag. Does anyone have a video of them cutting off the barrel shroud?

 

Shoot, I almost filmed that part too, but I did that a couple of weeks ago..

 

The only thing I would change is I thread about a quarter inch then back it off and clear the chips and repeat. It's less likely the chips might get caught in the die that way. Get video!!! :super:

 

Noted. Thank you.

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Good gravy, man. You have quite a following on YouTube! My Saiga muzzle threading video has been up for months and it has fewer than half of the comments yours does! Actually, you made the same mistake I did in not threading your TAT far enough soon enough, but they apparently work just fine without those threads.

 

Good work!

 

Thank's man. I try to mention Saiga-12.com as much as I can in the Saiga vids I've done to drive traffic this way. Good to know I'm not the only one who made that mistake with the TAT.. It would have been nice to catch that one by watching someone's video. Thanks for watching man..

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  • 11 months later...

Actually, you made the same mistake I did in not threading your TAT far enough soon enough, but they apparently work just fine without those threads.

 

 

More details on this please? what should the TAT be threaded onto, how far, how soon, etc?

 

I also second the question in reference to what type of pipe cutter was used? The one I have purchased seems too thick and wont cut far enough back.

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Actually, you made the same mistake I did in not threading your TAT far enough soon enough, but they apparently work just fine without those threads.

 

 

More details on this please? what should the TAT be threaded onto, how far, how soon, etc?

 

I also second the question in reference to what type of pipe cutter was used? The one I have purchased seems too thick and wont cut far enough back.

The TAT should be threaded about halfway to the die when starting to cut the threads, as in this simplified drawing:

2cgk4lj.png

What I did was thread it in a little too shallow, like this:

2z5kwvm.png

 

When the muzzle touched the TAT, the next turn caused the die to pull the first few threads off the barrel. After the first two or three threads are cut, I would pull the whole threading assembly off the rifle and start advancing the TAT.

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I usually only put the tat about a couple threads deep into the die. After cutting a few threads on the barrel, I unscrew the tat while everythings still on the barrel.

 

I use q tips and liquid ballistol (lol) to oil the barrel and the entire inside of the die, especially the cutting teeth, and also the tat. I occasionally run a soaked q tip into the round holes next to the cutting teeth, in order to remove the chips.

 

Of course not to forget to loosen the tightening screw on the die before starting. I always make sure that the tightening screw is as backed out as it can be, and that it is still able to go into the handle.

 

Removing the shroud is easy, removing the shroud to a specific desired length is somewhat more tricky. Just use a pipe cutter to cut it until you hear a cracking sound. Once it makes the sound all around the shroud, the shroud should pop right off. The thinner the pipe cutter that you have, the more options you have as to where to make the cut. Thick pipe cutters will be blocked by the rest of the FSB.

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  • 10 months later...

 

 

Actually, you made the same mistake I did in not threading your TAT far enough soon enough, but they apparently work just fine without those threads.

 

More details on this please? what should the TAT be threaded onto, how far, how soon, etc?

 

I also second the question in reference to what type of pipe cutter was used? The one I have purchased seems too thick and wont cut far enough back.

 

The TAT should be threaded about halfway to the die when starting to cut the threads, as in this simplified drawing:

2cgk4lj.png

What I did was thread it in a little too shallow, like this:

2z5kwvm.png

 

When the muzzle touched the TAT, the next turn caused the die to pull the first few threads off the barrel. After the first two or three threads are cut, I would pull the whole threading assembly off the rifle and start advancing the TAT.

 

 

 

Interesting. So are you saying that at no point should the TAT ever come into contact with the muzzle?

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Actually, you made the same mistake I did in not threading your TAT far enough soon enough, but they apparently work just fine without those threads.

 

More details on this please? what should the TAT be threaded onto, how far, how soon, etc?

I also second the question in reference to what type of pipe cutter was used? The one I have purchased seems too thick and wont cut far enough back.

The TAT should be threaded about halfway to the die when starting to cut the threads, as in this simplified drawing:2cgk4lj.png

What I did was thread it in a little too shallow, like this:2z5kwvm.png

When the muzzle touched the TAT, the next turn caused the die to pull the first few threads off the barrel. After the first two or three threads are cut, I would pull the whole threading assembly off the rifle and start advancing the TAT.

 

Interesting. So are you saying that at no point should the TAT ever come into contact with the muzzle?

The TAT should not come in contact with the muzzle as once it is bottomed out you can/will potentially destroy the threads that you have started. When threading the barrel start with the TAT about halfway threaded into the die. After making about 4 full threads back the TAT out one complete revolution for every complete revolution you make afterwards to avoid bottoming it out.

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Does any one know the make and model of a good thin pipe cutter?

I have used Ridgid brand cutters for years on all types of pipe........I think homedepot still carries these.

 

 

Had a job years ago that involved alot of stainless steel threading .

One of my " teachers" drilled that the new threads and die must be kept clean .......so maybe add a can of air or air compressor and fine wire brush to your list of tools.

 

 

 

Great video , much was learned , thankyou

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I used a ridged and made the mistake of cutting a very fine line into the barrel. so now Im stuck with the shroud cut off to where it nearly needs to be the the final 1/8 inch started but unable to get it off due to fsb blocking it and fear of cutting into the barrel again. I may just resort to letting a smith do it now.

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I used a ridged and made the mistake of cutting a very fine line into the barrel. so now Im stuck with the shroud cut off to where it nearly needs to be the the final 1/8 inch started but unable to get it off due to fsb blocking it and fear of cutting into the barrel again. I may just resort to letting a smith do it now.

 

 

Sounds like you should just go ahead and use a dremel tool with cutting wheel at this point. In fact, I wouldn't even cut that deep, just make a ridge and try to tap it out see if the rest just breaks off.

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Ya did fine man.

 

I just use the threading oil more often, like every turn a drop on the cutting surface after initial oiling.

 

Oil is cheap, tools and rifles are not.

 

Also plugging the end of the barrel with a small piece of paper towel or something to keep shavings out of rifle.

Edited by Rhodes1968
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