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SAIGA 5.45, X39 CONVERSION TUTORIAL WITH FULL PHOTOS AND WALKTHROUGH


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Thanks Saiga-12, I have been a lurker for a while and I know that tutorials exist, however, i did want to input some of my own thoughts on this great subject. Although each rifle has its nuance, the steps are basically the same, I have only converted two 7.62x39, one 308 and one 5.45 so i am still a newb compared to other guys with plenty more conversions under their belt.

Although you can use basic hand tools such as a hammer, drill and punches, I find it much easier to use an angle grinder or die grinder to save a lot of frustration, time, pain and drill bits.:ded:

Be sure to read through and watch all of the other conversions posted to familiarize yourself with the internals of this great rifle

A note on the .308 the trigger plate was held down by 2 extra rivets.

 

For those who wish to follow my guide, My tutorial will use

1 upgraded handguards,

2 a handguard mil surplus retainer,

3 an AK74 gas tube,

4 upgraded stock and

5 Tapco unmodified g2 single hook trigger system.

Please use forum sponsors to acquire these items.

 

Any and all suggestions or corrections welcome.

Dont be scared of this conversion. After doing a few of these i can say it would be really difficult to permanently screw up the rifle. Best of all you will appreciate your saiga much more aesthetically and without the long trigger creep.

 

Some tutorials and Resources:

http://forum.saiga-1...sion-with-pics/

 

 

 

http://gunpoints.org/blog/archives/168

 

 

 

http://www.cross-con...iga_Conversion/

 

 

 

http://home.comcast.net/~navy87guy/home/saigaconversion.html

 

 

 

http://www.ipscgun.c...CONVERSION.html

 

 

 

Edited by 3rdgeargrndrr
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Nice write up.

 

May I suggest using a burnishing pad on the forward and aft clinton plate rivets and just grinding them smooth.

Drill the middle one to secure the trigger guard to the receiver.

This method leaves no unnecessary open holes, and once painted looks great.

Looks almost as good as welding and blending the holes

Takes a extra five minutes but well worth the effort.

I have used this method on at least ten conversions(mine & friends)

If using a dremmel, a rotary carbide bit also works great.

 

Credit goes to GregM for developing this great conversion method of smoothing the rivets instead of drilling them.

Edited by Jetmech
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Nice write up.

 

May I suggest using a burnishing pad on the forward and aft clinton plate rivets and just grinding them smooth.

Drill the middle one to secure the trigger guard to the receiver.

This method leaves no unnecessary open holes, and once painted looks great.

Looks almost as good as welding and blending the holes

Takes a extra five minutes but well worth the effort.

I have used this method on at least ten conversions(mine & friends)

If using a dremmel, a rotary carbide bit also works great.

 

Credit goes to GregM for developing this great conversion method of smoothing the rivets instead of drilling them.

 

i just used these plugs, they save time and look great

 

http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-149/Saiga-FCG-hole-plugs/Detail

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Just seems a crying shame to remove metal and replace it with plastic, when you already have the proper tools to do the job.

Guess you would have to see the finished work in person to appreciate the difference.

I only use the plugs on the sides because no access to a proper welder.

How much extra time did it take you to photograph, edit, and post pics? ;)

 

Your rifles and pics look great.

Edited by Jetmech
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Nice write up.

 

May I suggest using a burnishing pad on the forward and aft clinton plate rivets and just grinding them smooth.

Drill the middle one to secure the trigger guard to the receiver.

This method leaves no unnecessary open holes, and once painted looks great.

Looks almost as good as welding and blending the holes

Takes a extra five minutes but well worth the effort.

I have used this method on at least ten conversions(mine & friends)

If using a dremmel, a rotary carbide bit also works great.

 

Credit goes to GregM for developing this great conversion method of smoothing the rivets instead of drilling them.

 

I'm late to the party, I know, But I would like to know more about this.

my two sporter FCG holes will be taken up by an ACE internal receiver block.

I do have access to a welder (person, not machine) so I can get them filled, but if I can skip the need< I'll be content.

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Nice write up.

 

May I suggest using a burnishing pad on the forward and aft clinton plate rivets and just grinding them smooth.

Drill the middle one to secure the trigger guard to the receiver.

This method leaves no unnecessary open holes, and once painted looks great.

Looks almost as good as welding and blending the holes

Takes a extra five minutes but well worth the effort.

I have used this method on at least ten conversions(mine & friends)

If using a dremmel, a rotary carbide bit also works great.

 

Credit goes to GregM for developing this great conversion method of smoothing the rivets instead of drilling them.

 

I'm late to the party, I know, But I would like to know more about this.

my two sporter FCG holes will be taken up by an ACE internal receiver block.

I do have access to a welder (person, not machine) so I can get them filled, but if I can skip the need< I'll be content.

Use this type bit to shave the rivets smooth. Take your time and it will leave the bottom smooth. The aft rivet will also need to be shaved down some inside the receiver to install your adapter.

http://www.ebay.com/...347396713551489

Edited by Jetmech
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Nice write up.

 

May I suggest using a burnishing pad on the forward and aft clinton plate rivets and just grinding them smooth.

Drill the middle one to secure the trigger guard to the receiver.

This method leaves no unnecessary open holes, and once painted looks great.

Looks almost as good as welding and blending the holes

Takes a extra five minutes but well worth the effort.

I have used this method on at least ten conversions(mine & friends)

If using a dremmel, a rotary carbide bit also works great.

 

Credit goes to GregM for developing this great conversion method of smoothing the rivets instead of drilling them.

 

I'm late to the party, I know, But I would like to know more about this.

my two sporter FCG holes will be taken up by an ACE internal receiver block.

I do have access to a welder (person, not machine) so I can get them filled, but if I can skip the need< I'll be content.

Use this type bit to shave the rivets smooth. Take your time and it will leave the bottom smooth. The aft rivet will also need to be shaved down some inside the receiver to install your adapter.

http://www.ebay.com/...347396713551489

 

i'll try this when i convert the 12, and update, thanks

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