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Sturdy safe or zykan, is about the most affordable "real" safe you will come by.

 

Anything else is just a fancy crook deterrent. I went through this a few months ago and its really amazing what you will figure out doing some research.

 

The market is deceiving. What is commonly called a "safe" is basically just a lockable cabinet with thin steel doors.

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I have the Liberty Lincoln series. It was like three grand but the best is no substitute for what your trying to protect! Its a huge sombitch but the fatboy series is about half the price and its big,checkem out

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Depends on what you are looking for. Do you want UL ratings or factory "ratings"? Fire protection a big deal or not? Whatever else you want, I recommend a non-electronic combination lock and a safe with a relocker. The liberty safes have nice interiors and are not too expensive, though I'm not sure if they have any real ratings. I was able to find a used UL security/fire rated safe (no gypsum) about the same size as the Liberty Fatboy locally through Craigslist for $700, but it was not a "gun safe" and came with no provisions for storing guns. The Fatboy also has internal hinges, not as good as external hinges. Check out tis link for many "gun safe" gimmicks: http://www.sturdysafe.com/gimmicks.htm

Edited by bigj480
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That safe is not liberties premium grade that those guys are prying into!thats theyre entry level for about a grand! And yes anyone with pry bars can break into those! But you all know you get what you pay for! So do your research before downgrading. And who ever said external hinges was better than internal is crazy! Think about it,its not rocket science! And how much a safe wieghts also can tell you the quality. And when you open the door see how thick the wall is also a dead giveaway. Dont buy a safe from your local retail store you buy them from a gunstore,theyre the ones that have the real mcoys not those entry level crap! With 8th inch steel doors that rattle when you open them. JUST DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY! Also seargent greenleaf is the best combo lock in the world hands down! Not your regular combo method its a bank vault method! Youll know the difference when you see it. And dont buy some cheap plastic electronic push button combo because heat melts plastic and if that happens you have to destroy the safe to get into it! Thats all i have to say about that lieutenant Dan!

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Well, In my gun room, they are going to have to bust the safe off the floor, move it out into the yard. and then they would have had enough room to use prybars on it...

 

There is NO WAY they have enough room in many of the rooms in my home to use prybars like that on a safe... Then again... mine has a door thats about twice as thick as the one in the video, and 3 times the number of locking rods... they would be spending a lot more time playing with it than those guys did...

 

So it takes them 10 minutes to get into it... :up:

 

If I am gone for a weekend someplace... they have more than enough time to drive the van in, hook the safe up to a dolly, and wheel it into the van and drive away and open it at their convenience... so what difference does it make????

 

How much WHAT IF are you going to listen to, before you only feel safe if you build an entire room thats lined with 3" thick depleted uranium plate, lined with LEAD to deter radiation threats, from incoming nuclear warheads, and a 2' thick vault door, with 6" locking lugs??!?!?!?!?!

 

I KNOW that I have a lot more peace of mind with the safes in my home, than I did before with NONE...

 

I spent about $1600 on $2000 worth of safes... and they seem to be enough to do the job they are designed to do.

 

 

:smoke:

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That safe is not liberties premium grade that those guys are prying into!thats theyre entry level for about a grand! And yes anyone with pry bars can break into those! But you all know you get what you pay for! So do your research before downgrading.

 

Except that you can get a used full UL rated safe for $4-500 less off of Craigslist.

 

And who ever said external hinges was better than internal is crazy! Think about it,its not rocket science!

 

Actually, external hinges are the best. Surely you do not think that it makes the safe more vulnerable. The hinges on a safe door are not there to keep the door closed in the case of a attempted brake in, all though they ARE substantial. As a matter of fact, I would hope that thieves focus on the external hinges. That's because what actually keeps the door closed are the locking bolts, not the hinge. External hinges are found on high end commercial grade safes for a reason, they also allow for removal of the door (after it's unlocked) for easy moving. There are no benefits to internal hinges other than looks and they are typically weeaker and you can;s remove the door for easy moving.

 

And how much a safe wieghts also can tell you the quality. And when you open the door see how thick the wall is also a dead giveaway. Dont buy a safe from your local retail store you buy them from a gunstore,theyre the ones that have the real mcoys not those entry level crap! With 8th inch steel doors that rattle when you open them. JUST DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY!

 

True, the weight and the fireproofing material used is a good indicator.

 

Also seargent greenleaf is the best combo lock in the world hands down! Not your regular combo method its a bank vault method! Youll know the difference when you see it. And dont buy some cheap plastic electronic push button combo because heat melts plastic and if that happens you have to destroy the safe to get into it! Thats all i have to say about that lieutenant Dan!

 

Yep, that used $700 UL rated safe I bought has a S&G lock. Electronic locks suck.

 

Again, I suggest the OP reads the following link, which states what I have heard from several other safe dealers: http://www.sturdysafe.com/gimmicks.htm

 

If I am gone for a weekend someplace... they have more than enough time to drive the van in, hook the safe up to a dolly, and wheel it into the van and drive away and open it at their convenience... so what difference does it make????

 

Aren't your safes bolted down? It's really a bit counter productive to skip that step after spending money on a safe.

Edited by bigj480
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Oh yea the safe I have os bolted to a concrete floor and is almost seven feet tall and four feet wide and weights about fifteen hundred pound empty not including 20 guns with seven thousand rounds so the thing wieght probably 2500lbs plus an armned wife thats on the rag 24/7 that doesnt work then have to get through the am staff dog to! So anyone comes in would have to kill the dog first then the armned wife then get the truck some how in the backyard cut a hole in the house and tow trk the 7 foot safe through the house! To many freakn odds against them! Just dont see it happining!

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Whatever you get, make sure it's at least TWICE the size you think you need.

 

Bolt it down in a closet or cubby. If you can, bolt it to 2 walls and the floor with LONG lag bolts if into wood, concrete anchors if into concrete.

Edited by patriot
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You are rite buy twice the size you need! But really all you need is a plasma cutter to get into any safe on the market! And those are gettin portable now days! But you guys are great and we never have to worry about each of us on this forum its usaully friends and family that rip us off! NOW WHAT IM TALKIN ABOUT!

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That safe is not liberties premium grade that those guys are prying into!thats theyre entry level for about a grand! And yes anyone with pry bars can break into those! But you all know you get what you pay for! So do your research before downgrading.

 

Except that you can get a used full UL rated safe for $4-500 less off of Craigslist.

 

And who ever said external hinges was better than internal is crazy! Think about it,its not rocket science!

 

Actually, external hinges are the best. Surely you do not think that it makes the safe more vulnerable. The hinges on a safe door are not there to keep the door closed in the case of a attempted brake in, all though they ARE substantial. As a matter of fact, I would hope that thieves focus on the external hinges. That's because what actually keeps the door closed are the locking bolts, not the hinge. External hinges are found on high end commercial grade safes for a reason, they also allow for removal of the door (after it's unlocked) for easy moving. There are no benefits to internal hinges other than looks and they are typically weeaker and you can;s remove the door for easy moving.

 

And how much a safe wieghts also can tell you the quality. And when you open the door see how thick the wall is also a dead giveaway. Dont buy a safe from your local retail store you buy them from a gunstore,theyre the ones that have the real mcoys not those entry level crap! With 8th inch steel doors that rattle when you open them. JUST DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY!

 

True, the weight and the fireproofing material used is a good indicator.

 

Also seargent greenleaf is the best combo lock in the world hands down! Not your regular combo method its a bank vault method! Youll know the difference when you see it. And dont buy some cheap plastic electronic push button combo because heat melts plastic and if that happens you have to destroy the safe to get into it! Thats all i have to say about that lieutenant Dan!

 

Yep, that used $700 UL rated safe I bought has a S&G lock. Electronic locks suck.

 

Again, I suggest the OP reads the following link, which states what I have heard from several other safe dealers: http://www.sturdysafe.com/gimmicks.htm

 

If I am gone for a weekend someplace... they have more than enough time to drive the van in, hook the safe up to a dolly, and wheel it into the van and drive away and open it at their convenience... so what difference does it make????

 

Aren't your safes bolted down? It's really a bit counter productive to skip that step after spending money on a safe.

 

 

Read the FIRST line of my post... :up:

 

 

:smoke:

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I've got a Liberty Centurion. It's on the small side, but will hold upto maybe 14 longguns. It's is fire rated though I don't remember how high/long. Mines bolted to both the floor and the wall and the door opens away from a wall, so crow bars are not an option.

 

I'm satisfied with it. I've one room in the basement I'd like to convert to an "armory" but will still have the safe because it is also set up to be a sheild(the door) in a home invasion scenario.

 

If your renting go small side as you may ave to move it sometime. Two smaller safes may be better for you than one big one.

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I've got a Liberty Centurion. It's on the small side, but will hold upto maybe 14 longguns. It's is fire rated though I don't remember how high/long. Mines bolted to both the floor and the wall and the door opens away from a wall, so crow bars are not an option.

 

I'm satisfied with it. I've one room in the basement I'd like to convert to an "armory" but will still have the safe because it is also set up to be a sheild(the door) in a home invasion scenario.

 

If your renting go small side as you may ave to move it sometime. Two smaller safes may be better for you than one big one.

 

 

Nothing wrong with that safe option, a bit small for me now! DAMNIT!

No safe is safe with the determined burgler. It is all about letting no one see that you have a reason for a safe that helps.

Take every deterent you can, don't let folks see the stereo or big screen box you bring home. Do not advertise you have guns in the house, do not flaunt what you have is the biggest deterent(not a garantee though)!

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I've got a Liberty Centurion. It's on the small side, but will hold upto maybe 14 longguns. It's is fire rated though I don't remember how high/long. Mines bolted to both the floor and the wall and the door opens away from a wall, so crow bars are not an option.

 

I'm satisfied with it. I've one room in the basement I'd like to convert to an "armory" but will still have the safe because it is also set up to be a sheild(the door) in a home invasion scenario.

 

If your renting go small side as you may ave to move it sometime. Two smaller safes may be better for you than one big one.

 

 

Nothing wrong with that safe option, a bit small for me now! DAMNIT!

No safe is safe with the determined burgler. It is all about letting no one see that you have a reason for a safe that helps.

Take every deterent you can, don't let folks see the stereo or big screen box you bring home. Do not advertise you have guns in the house, do not flaunt what you have is the biggest deterent(not a garantee though)!

 

I hear that,

I just talked to a client this morning, whose father-in-law snow birds tween Ohio and Florida. He got a call a few weeks ago that his FL place had been broken into, the safe torched, and everything gone. My client commented that "as if the lack of human activity wasn't enough, the steel storm shutters had to be a dead giveaway.". The cops are thinking it may have been a disgruntled maid they had last year, since they seemed to know where everything was at.

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Liberty Fatboy

http://www.libertysa...safes-ps-9.html

 

Browning Gold Series G-28F

http://browning-gun-...goseexwisa.html

 

I can only comment on these two safes from personal experience...both are nice safes.

The Browning Gold Series has some better features than the Liberty Fatboy, but costs more, and holds less. (Browning @ $3,000 - $3600...Fatboy was right around $2,000 a few years ago...not sure what they sell for now)

Also weighs more and even though smaller (The Browning @ 60H x 37W x 27 D...weighs 925 lbs empty.... vs. the Fatboy @ 60.5 H x 42W x 30.5 D... @ 880 lbs).

Fatboy has a 64 long gun capacity vs. The Browning's 28....but you can get a lot more in there if you are creative, especially with folders).

 

Browning has larger bolts and more of them, even with the smaller door (20 @ 1.5" compared to Fatboy's 12 @ 1.25").

 

Both are 1 hr fire rated at 1200+ degrees F.

 

The Browning looks much nicer IMO, with the gold plated hardware and nice black enamel finish, and painted scenes on the doors (choice of different ones).

 

Both are wired, or can be wired for lights and dehumidifiers.

 

The Browning has external hinges.

 

Both have optional key and combo dial locks, or electronic digital.

 

Browning has 5 spoke wheel vs. 3 on Fatboy.

 

I like the way storage is setup better on the Browning safe, with the racks running front to rear, vs. the PITA side to side setup on the Fatboy. (on phattie you have to take more guns out of the safe to access the ones directly behind them, which can really suck if you have to organize them strategically to fit in all the PGs, scopes, etc..)

 

Fatboy...

post-1293-0-41911400-1315502803_thumb.jpg

post-1293-0-31010000-1315502751_thumb.jpg

post-1293-0-01372700-1315502731_thumb.jpg

 

Worried about security, even if you have a good safe? Bolt it down good to the floor system. Keep it locked at all times. Get a good insurance policy... and Get a BIG dog (at least one... we have at least one inside, and one out, at all times....and train them not to let anyone near your house. Keep some of your guns OUT of the safe where you can use them if you are home. Also invest in a good home security system to be even more ready for intruders. They have some really nice shit out now that isn't all that expensive.You can even see your home from where ever you are via phone or computer. Know your neighbors (if you have neighbors) and make sure they have your place covered too when you're away, and have their backs as well.

 

Browning

post-1293-0-91448200-1315502855_thumb.jpg

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post-1293-0-43077200-1315503392_thumb.jpg

post-1293-0-51277000-1315502958_thumb.jpg

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Suggestions?

no matter what type of safe you get, put it in a corner then you can bolt to 2 walls & the floor.

 

The side that opens should be butted up to a wall so the safe will need to be ripped out of the walls & floor before anybody attempts to pry it open due to the wall being in the way of the pry-bar.

 

If you're a homeowner & want to get really crafty build a reinforced cinderblock casing around the exposed side of the safe so people would have a lot of sledgehammer work before metal work.

 

For less than $200 a person can get set up with a small oxy-gas cutting rig that can fit into a backpack.

The side or back of safes are usually easily penetrated with these, however, cinderblocks reinforced with re-bar & concrete don't cut too well with flame.

 

If not properly installed an expensive safe can be easily breached with a tourch, pry-bar or 110V plasma cutter.

If properly & intelligently installed, a cheap safe can be a real sonofabitch to crack.

 

It's like your house.

You think it's secure until you lock yourself out.

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So... I've been wanting another fire resistant Gun Safe.

And this thread got me off my butt again and really researching the science of the Fire Resistant ratings, the insulating materials, construction and everything related.

Watched all sorts of manufacturers videos proving theirs is better than the others.

 

At this time I rescind my suggestion of Liberty's Fatboy, and no longer consider mine as I did before, i.e. a good fire resistant gun safe.

I no longer believe it will protect as claimed, for as long as claimed... In a real house fire.

Further, I think I could open the side of it like a sardine can in a matter or minutes, with naught but a 3lb sledge, a large spike and a good battery powered Sawzall.

Punch three holes, cut three lines and peel it back, easier & quieter than beating it in with a Axe/Sledge.

:angry: I honestly didn't know how thin the steel is on this safe. :blush: Shame on me, bought it second hand.

 

So where did a good 2 hours lead me?

My next safe will be a Sturdy Safe, with full fire protection and it it just went on my Short List.

4ft Of 7 Gauge Reinforcement

$245.00

Change To Interior #2 With Side

$0.00

6 Gun Pistol Rack

$25.00

3224-6 Fire Lined

$647.00

Model 3224-6

$2057.00

Subtotal: $2974.00Tax and shipping on next pagecheckout.gif?merchant_id=263536100510040&integration=jscart-wizard&style=trans&w=160&h=43&variant=text&loc=en_US&f=png

My thanks to Chevyman097 for the link.

Edited by ChileRelleno
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. And who ever said external hinges was better than internal is crazy! Think about it,its not rocket science!

 

 

You ever see a bank vault? I bet the hinges are on the outside.

 

 

Just because the hinges are on the inside does not make it any more safe. I once was mislead by that thinking too. But its just another "gun safe" market gimmick.

 

A safe with exterior hinges can hold much more weight, allowing thicker doors, and allows the door to be removed when unlocked. Which would make the safe lighter for moving if you need to do so, or repairs, whatever it may be.

 

 

The sturdy safe website if a good resource for explanations on all these gimmicks but there are many others out there if you just search.

 

Most of all the newer "name" brand model gun "safes" are stamped out in china, shipped to USA and painted different for each brand.

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