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Zero Range and overall scope advice


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At what range would you guys suggest zeroing my scope. My ironsights cowitness underneath the scope and are set at 100 yards so for anything close in I would just be using those.

 

I am planning on getting a saiga 12 for anything closer than 100 yards anyways.

 

I guess my question is zero the rifle at 100 yards and whats the drop off at say 200 or 300 or 500 yards? My treeline is about 500 yards so I am just trying to figure out the optimal situation here. I have built this rifle around the GSR concept and have only a few final touches to make before it will be finished. I shoot great groups sub "2 with the ironsights at 100 yards, but to be honest, I have never ever sighted in a scope. This one came with the rifle and it "seems" to have a nice picture but I would be open to any advice on better scopes what range to zero it in on, etc.

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100 yard zero, and know how many clicks of elevation you need for given/approx increase in range, with specific ammo.

Unless your scope has a 'Bullet Drop Compensator' reticle designed for the .308, in that case, 100 yrd zero and know exactly how the rounds you're using correspond with the BDC.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Something this old sailor learned from the Marines is called "battle zero". This means that for the cartridge in use, a dead-on hold will result in a hit in the vital area of the intended prey throughout the range. For example, a 2600 fps/145gr FMJ round from a 16" Saiga with a 320 yard zero would hit 7.18" high at 175 yards and 7.37" low at 375 yards. Aiming at center mass, that zero would provide for a reliable hit in a 15" tall vital area up to 375 yards.

 

It's called "battle zero" because in a firefight, a combatant doesn't have time to do math.

 

I mention this as an alternative and for historical reasons.

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I agree with the battle zero concept, or at least some version of it. It takes out a lot of the calculating out to ~300 yards, and allows you to hit "close enough".

 

But it depends on your needs. If you're hunting with it, you probably want a smaller spread than 15" for humane kills. If you're trying to shoot smallish targets or groups, you want it sighted in for whatever distance you're shooting.

 

For example, a 125 grain bullet with a .366 BC fired at 2900 FPS and zeroed at 250 yards is never more than 3" high, then is 3.8" low at 300 yards, 17" low at 400 yards, 38" low at 500 yards, etc. Of course, your zero, rise, and fall depends on your ammo choice, sight height, elevation, etc.

 

You might find this useful: http://www.handloads...calc/index.html

Edited by Dudethebagman
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On a POSP/PSO, zero the 2nd chevron at 25 yards.

 

This will give you an instinctive zero at practically any effective range for the rifle. FYI top chevron should be dead on at 100 yards that way, so between 100 to 250 yards, the bullet will stay with the top 2 chevrons.

 

This is what I typically do for rifles I'm not bench resting, and I always hit what I'm aiming at regardless how close or far, without having to make adjustments.

 

 

If you want absolute precision, get a ballistic table and a chronograph. Do the math and take measurements at each range, measuring with a laser range finder.

Edited by Tombs
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