Prep for Conversion

[SDRider 7]

Hi all!

 

I just got back from my LGS, and I think I picked up everything I need for the conversion (can someone please verify that this is all I need for the conversion?):

 

Basic Trigger Conversion Kit

- Tromix G2 FCG

- CSS Trigger Guard

- plastic hole plugs

- what looks to be a safety stop?

Axis Retaining Plate

Kvar NATO Stock

Hogue PG

JTE Performance Hammer Spring

 

Now that I have all of the parts, can someone tell me what tools/materials I will need to complete the conversion? Here is a quick list of questions I have, thanks in advance I would like to get everything in line so that I can make the job as easy as possible (I have watched the CSS videos twice now):

 

So far my list includes

- Drill

- Screw Driver

- Punch Set

- Masking Tape for the paint Job

- needle nose pliers

- Paint

 

1. What size drill bit do I use to drill out the rivets?

2. Any special tools that might make the job easier?

3. What specific spray paint will match best with the rest of the reciever? I have heard engine paint does well?

Edited November 29, 2011 by SDRider

[SDRider 7]

Another thing I just remembered is the manual BHO. Whats the general consensus on this? do most of you retain the stock one? or do you just remove it entirely?

 

I was considering purchasing one of the modified versions out there, but not sure its worth the money.

[rnemhrd 165]

You forgot beverage of choice.3/16 drill bit cobalt works well. correct on paint. Have the modified BHO on my S12 Trimmed it so it does'nt rub my finger. It's not a bad job. BHO spring is the biggest P.I.T.A. CSS video helps a bunch.

Edited November 29, 2011 by rnemhrd

[SDRider 7]

Thanks for the response rnemhrd.

 

I was originally going to drop this off and pay to have someone do this, but im not willing to wait another 2 weeks for something that I could do easily in a night with some beer.

 

How long did it take you guys to do your first conversion? Im wondering if can knock this out afterwork tonight.

Edited November 29, 2011 by SDRider

[vulcan16 971]

You can easily do it after work.

Notch the BHO for the safety before you start to put the trigger group in. It wiill make the job much easier then trying to modify it later.

[SDRider 7]

You can easily do it after work.

Notch the BHO for the safety before you start to put the trigger group in. It wiill make the job much easier then trying to modify it later.

 

Thanks Jetmech! Although coming from a jet mechanic, this stuff must be like playing with legos to you haha.

 

Im going to try and tackle this tonight, the only thing i was concerned about was the BHO re-installation but the video on CSS where they show how to install the sheperads crook (sp?), there was a very good angle on how the spring/axis pin/and BHO interact, so i feel much more comfortable now.

 

Ill be sure to report back if I got the job done, or if I have a pile of parts that use to be my Saiga 12!

[vulcan16 971]

You can easily do it after work.

Notch the BHO for the safety before you start to put the trigger group in. It wiill make the job much easier then trying to modify it later.

 

Thanks Jetmech! Although coming from a jet mechanic, this stuff must be like playing with legos to you haha.

 

Im going to try and tackle this tonight, the only thing i was concerned about was the BHO re-installation but the video on CSS where they show how to install the sheperads crook (sp?), there was a very good angle on how the spring/axis pin/and BHO interact, so i feel much more comfortable now.

 

Ill be sure to report back if I got the job done, or if I have a pile of parts that use to be my Saiga 12!

I've restored a number of saigas, and each one get better and easier.

Have to thank GregM for showing me how to safely shave the rivets down for a nice clean look.

[Bcrider 68]

I did my own and trust me, I'm about as far as you can get from mechanically inclined. I ran into almost every problem you can think of. From the retainer plate not lining up with the safety to my internal receiver block not fitting properly (won't be a problem for you if you aren't removing the tang). Bottom line is every time I ran into an issue, the solution was found on this site. Amazing info here.

[SDRider 7]

I did my own and trust me, I'm about as far as you can get from mechanically inclined. I ran into almost every problem you can think of. From the retainer plate not lining up with the safety to my internal receiver block not fitting properly (won't be a problem for you if you aren't removing the tang). Bottom line is every time I ran into an issue, the solution was found on this site. Amazing info here.

 

Fingers crossed that I dont run into those same issues, but knowing my luck there will be many road blocks ahead of me. But at least i know where to go if i have problems doing the conversion.

[SDRider 7]

Boy was that one intimate lesson on how to get to know your Saiga Shotgun. I said that I would run into road blocks, and I swear everything that could have been an issue, was. I know lots of people say do it yourself, and I would agree as long as your handy with some tools (some of the parts require fitment). Below is just a brief recap of some of the issues I encountered while doing the conversion.

 

I started the conversion at 730 pm with laying all my tools and conversion parts on a table, making sure that I had all parts and organized them according to install procedures. A quick inventory of what I ended up with just in case someone else is wondering:

 

Conversion Parts:

CSS Basic Conversion Kit

-Tromix G2 FCG

-CSS Trigger Guard

-Plastic plugs

-Safety Stop

Modified BHO (optional)

Axis Retaining Plate (optional)

JTE Power Hammer Spring (optional)

Tools:

Drill

3/16 Drill Bit (Cobalt, and not High Speed Steel), also additional bits to drill holes for the stock that I used.

Needle Nose Pliers

Screwdriver (+,-)

Vise Clamps

Hook Tool (helpful with the springs)

 

Drill out the rivets - "have the right tools for the job" that saying kept repeating over and over as I destroyed two high speed drill bits. It took a while to get the first two side rivets out as the bit was wearing dull, a quick trip out to the store for some cobalt bits cured that immediatly. After I had the right bit the rivets just cut out like butter, and were easily punched out. Bam no more stock trigger guard.

 

FCG: Removal of the FCG was simple enough, things came apart rather quick, but I must have skipped a step and stupid me forgot to disengage the hammer before I removed the rear axis pin, so the trigger itself had already been removed. No big deal, I was able to disengage the hammer with some fiddeling around. Be sure to watch out for those hammer springs when you bring them back around the hammer, ouch! Zipties or something similar are a definite must!

 

BHO: This was a pain in the ass. I tried using the approach in the CSS videos, but just couldnt get it done that way. I ended up getting the spring around the axis pin first, then I lifted up the end of the spring which is bent, up and over the BHO notch, which IMO was much easier, and in fact I had to do this three times because of the next issue!

 

Axis Retaining Plate: So like everyone recommended I opted for the axis retaining plate instead of the stock shepards crook (sp?). One thing to note is that make sure that when you are installing the plate, it securely locks down on the axis pins grooves. I had an issue where the plate was not fully seated in the grooves of the rear pin, and the axis pin would push out on its own. I of course found this out when I had the gun fully assembled and thought I was done, only to rack the bolt and see the axis pins push out from the vibration.

 

Furniture: Both my Kvar stock and Hogue Grip required removing material from the parts to mount. The KVAR stock required me tro drill two holes, and also file down the bottom portion of the mounting block that slides into the reciever because the trigger guard rear-most screw was in the way ( this was a quick fix). The Hogue grip also required me to shave down the front portion which butts onto the trigger guard itself for proper allignment. I actually had to take off a good amount of material before I could get it perfectly straight.

 

Ok at about this time its 11 pm, and I have moved on from beer to whiskey. Its late, im tired, buzzed, and feeling like I just want to sleep. For some reason in my half awake state I couldnt get the safety lever installed after locking into the rear hole of the axis plate. The lever would not push down to clear the trigger assembly! I eventually got it in somehow, but I still have no idea what the issue was. Now that Im sober and awake, i'll have to look into that issue more.

 

Once the job was complete around midnight, I was able to finally shoulder the weapon, and wow! what a difference. I can see now why this is a must, seems like a brand new gun to me. Balance and feel were excellent. and the trigger pull is smooth and crisp thanks to the tromix FCG and JTE spring.

 

In summary, was I glad I did it myself? YES! I can take apart this saiga with ease and could only have learned that through my struggles last night with the conversion. Do I recommend it for everyone? definitley not. I have a few friends that I know would have gotten stuck with some of the issues I ran into.

 

Thanks all for the help, heres a pic of the completed project, nothing special. Next plans are to get a muzzle device of some sort, and also change out the hand guard. No plans on internal work as she was cycling the cheap stuff right outta the box with a CSS puck.

 

Please excuse the typos, and that stupid box in front of the FCG.

 

Edited November 30, 2011 by SDRider

[SDRider 7]

Thought Id update this thread with better pictures of the almost final product. Just looking for a muzzle device to finish it off.