DropKick867 9 Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) Don't start salivating just yet. I have my Saiga-12 in possesion. The first step in the conversion is: To fire it at the range by Wednesday as-is to see how or if it does. I will be firing it at a new local facility (Tulsa, OK 2-A Shooting, which I have so far heard good things about). Probably will have to shoot low brass so, boo hoo hoo....FTE, stove pipes? We shall see..... I don't know exactly what loads they allow at this place, but its an indoors , 25yard range, so only the lightest? Anyone here ever been there chime in if you can dig it. THAT BEING SAID: I have Carolina SS kit #13 on order with the Carolina Trigger guard do the convert later and 2 AGP 10-rnd mags for after (probably should get at least 1 US manufactured 5 rounder, eh?) I'll Try my best to take vids and pics like the net boys do, although I'd love to have Monica Rial do the voice over narrative if I could. The mechanics I can dig, the documentation, I might have to seriously think about......probabaly wind up looking like Spinal Tap meets Kalashnikov.... Edited December 11, 2011 by DropKick867 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Salt1219 176 Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 good luck with your conversion I shouldn't take long (30 min-1hr). Take a look at the videos on Carolina shooter supply websight they are very helpful. I don't know what tools you have but the fallowing will come in handy, they're not all necessary I did mine with about half this list but i wish i had them all. (right tool for the job and all) hammer steel punch set needle nose pliers drill (chucked and corded is better than battery) dremel set set of screw drivers socket set vice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewoketeer 35 Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Looks like you're set... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) A chucked and corded drill IS better that a battery powered drill unless that battery powered drill is a DeWalt... Just sayin'... I used the wife's little purple claw hammer for conversion. Once I got the rivets drilled out (watch out, they'll spin on ya), I used them as punches for the rest... Remember that you'll also need some spray paint too. I used Rustoleum textured paint, it's a practical match to the original finish. I'm not quite sure what you'd need a socket set for other than possibly re-assembly. I used allen head bolts so you'll probably need an allen set too if the trigger guard is bolt on and from CSS. Oh and one more thing, a bread-tie to hold the hammer spring legs as per CSS's videos on youtube. Bread tie is very important, you'll understand the first time that God-forsaken spring whacks you in the finger, pay attention to the way you install the hammer too, it CAN be installed backwards and will render the gun inoperable... Edited December 12, 2011 by Caged Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battosaii 99 Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 im a professional mechanic and i havnt found anything that i cant drill into with my 14.4v Makita but yes generally power cord drills do offer the best performance for the price my Makita set cost me about $500 5 years ago but hey they are as good as they were when they were new and i do use them alot because of my career Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 Makita. I'm a service plumber and have distroyed my unfair share of cordless tool. The new lithium 14v makitas are very good. Sorry, off topic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted December 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 (edited) Thanks to all for the input, which reminded me I still need the paint (I'll go with that Rustoleum textured now that you mention it), and one of those sure-lock plier things (which I should have had years ago anyway) to keep the rivets from spinning. The rest I am totally set for; the word of Jeff Spicoli keep going through my head: "My Dad's a TV repair man. He's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it." Broke the thing down and watched the CSS vids again last night while looking at the internals...feel pretty confident. The one thing that hadn't hit me before was if I'll still need to grind a bit off the bottom of the safety lever even though I bought the "modified G2 FCG" from CSS...no biggie, we'll find out one way or the other. Cleaned the thing and put just a drop or two of lube on the rails. Well take it to the range later today to make sure it works at all prior to surgery. Edited December 13, 2011 by DropKick867 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted December 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 Step #1 Accomplished: The gun functions...my shoulder might not so much for a while. Went down to the new indoor facility in town. Very nice place; No BS from the staff. Very satisfied. I took no ammo because I had no idea about their range rules. They allow only buck and slug, and had only Express Remington 2-3/4" 00BK on hand so I snagged 30 rounds of that as it had already been an expensive day. Not a hiccup at all; Mag full or one round only...no malfunctions. If there had been with those loads, I guess I really would have been in trouble, right? Conversion kit should get here tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 You should really run some cheap birdshot before you void warranty. That is the question you need answered. I would also say that safety fitting is not always needed. On my second conversion it looks like it will work with no safety fitting at all. Also, if you do have to fit the safety, I would recommend putting a very slight stair step on the leg of the trigger where the safety engages before filing on the safety. This will give you a positive "home" on the upward sweep of the safety. I wish the guides had mentioned that before I did my first one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) Still waiting on the kit to arrive. If it doesn't come today I might cry like a little girl.....oh, I guess something called X-mas is happening and that might affect the postal services, god bless 'em...my grandfather was a letter carrier his whole carrier. We'll see about the safety lever grinding when the time comes. I have the necessary instruments at my disposal... ...as for running birdshot through the thing before I void the warranty: Good advice and well taken. I'd love to but I have no Back40 where to do this at the present. I will take a leap of faith and assume the gas system is not defective (famous last words? you be the judge). I've read the warranty and I don't think its worth much. After the last cleaning, I removed the factory plug, inspected and cleaned the tube, puck, and ports....saw no abnormalities, and replaced the oem plug with a MD V-Plug...which aligned perfectly to "-" when full threaded....so I take that as a good omen, at least as far as the factory threading is concerned. The operating theatre stands waiting; lets do this thing! If the kit comes today, I'll order the SGM tri-rail fore grip to complete the overall conversion on this particular puppy. Edited December 16, 2011 by DropKick867 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 I got the stuff I ordered from MAA within 4 days of payment. I payed on a weekend. I can recommend them for fast service if you need more parts before Christmas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted December 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) I got the stuff yesterday morning after my last post. CSS shipped it ASAP after my order and the USPS notification confirmed it Picked and Sorted on their end on 12-12...why it took USPS until 12-16 to get a priority mail package from SC to OK even during this time of year....lets not even begin to speculate. To reiterate. nothing but praise for CSS in all my dealings wih them. Anywho....I'm most of the way through the convert ....but let me get a cup of joe before I start expounding on that. Edited December 17, 2011 by DropKick867 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted December 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) It was on a dreary night of December that I beheld the accomplishment of my toils. With an anxiety that amounted almost to agony, I collected the instruments of life around me, that I might infuse a spark of being into the lifeless thing that lay at my feet… The kit came Friday morning and, with the exception of bolting on a SGM Tri-rail fore (which I did not order until Friday afternoon) I was able to complete the conversion Friday evening and Saturday afternoon. Excepting before/after pics and some views of the workspace, I fell down on my promise of video documentation. Once I waded into the project, I knew my full attention had to be focused on the task at hand. YouTube being newly available on XboX360, I was able to refer to the CSS vids on the giant screen next to the Workmate and did so many times. Those vids are invaluable and I knew I couldn’t add anything to them from my own efforts except a lot of fumbling and cussing. Who wants to see a how-to vid that doesn’t make it look easy? Not me…. Overall, the whole thing went pretty smoothly and I was pleasantly surprised and gratified by the whole experience. I’ll try and list a few of the sticking points I had, just in case they might help anyone else: (don't know why cut-paste changed all the points to #1..oh well) Kudos to GunFun for recommending Rustoleum Textured Black spray paint. It is a perfect match and saved my ass. After I got the OEM trigger guard off, I went to clean the greasy surface for painting with a rag and a little denatured alcohol. One fell swipe took most of the “finish” off the bottom of the receiver!!! I was standing there thinking “what do they use to coat these things, shoe polish? Holy John Dillinger, Batman.” Wound up painting a much bigger area than I intended and cannot tell the difference at all. My little corded Black & Decker drill had enough juice, but the hand-tighten only “chuck” almost wasn’t up to the job. Half-way through drilling out the middle, big rivet to the trigger guard, the bit got stuck and the chuck just spun around it. Luckily I was able to start drilling on another part of the rivet head, which soon broke off. I didn’t have to grind the safety lever any, but had a hell of a time getting it back into the receiver. I somehow missed the part of the CSS vid where he says to replace the safety lever before replacing the front access pin. Finally got it back in, but really thought I might have needed one of those modified bolt hold open levers. The bolt hold open spring got away from me and it took 10 minutes to find it against the pattern on that stupid rug. I’m lucky though; I’d taken my eye protection off earlier due to fogging and forgotten about it…don’t do that at home, folks. The shepherds crook took a few tries to get on…I made that harder than it had to be. The rear access pin had shifted enough that I couldn’t see the correct groove. Of course the crook has to be flush with the left wall of the receiver. Once I figured that out, it slid right on. What a relief that was. The ATI Strikeforce stock dry-fit like a glove immediately after removing the OEM FCG, but at the end of the process, was blocked by the rear trigger guard bolt and the rear nylon hole-fillers. A quick measurement, drill, and Dremel sanding drum made a perfect divot to fix that. The rear hole fillers got pushed out just a tiny bit, but not enough to notice unless you knew about it already. All in all, I’m totally stoked by the results. Here’s the after pics before I forget. SGM Tri-rail fore still to come: So we now have: Tromix Modified G2 FCG CSS Trigger Guard ATI Strikeforce Stock Tapco SAW pistol grip SGM Tri-rail (not pictured) MD Arms V-plug Red Jacket muzzle brake/door breacher AGP Arms 10 round magazine …a real Frankenstein of a gun…a monster, if you will; get it? With the Frankenstein references and all? Oh c’mon now…nobody bothered to read this far. Edited December 20, 2011 by DropKick867 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewoketeer 35 Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 heh heh heh... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 (edited) can't see any of your pictures... and someone else deserves credit for that paint recommendation. Glad it worked for you though. Edited December 20, 2011 by GunFun Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 can't see any of your pictures... and someone else deserves credit for that paint recommendation. Glad it worked for you though. Ah-so....It was Caged that recommended the Rustoleum. Kudos to Caged! Sorry for the oversight. The attachments from "My Media" went bye-bye, so I replaced those with the same Gallery Images....not quite as slick, but I've already spent more time jacking with this post than I did with the conversion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 You have little feet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 (edited) You have little feet. Those are cloven hooves actually. Please allow me to introduce myself, I'm a man of wealth and taste..... Edited December 20, 2011 by DropKick867 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 (edited) nuff said Edited January 2, 2012 by DropKick867 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted March 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 OK, the ATI Strikeforce Stock was not really such a great choice. It has plastic bits in the 'block' part of it that directly interfere with the action of the bolt carrier. Firing a few rounds at the range, I had the trigger "freeze" a couple of times. There was some discussion about this happening due to unpolished surfaces on the disconnect, etc., which I can appreciate; However: When I got the SOB home and stripped I found that the two central plastic 'fins' of the ATI stock's 'block' had been pulverized by the the bolt carrier. I field stripped the thing and took the brass and nylon brushes to the receiver. The amount of shredded plasting that came out was amazing. Trimmed back the offending plastic bits and the trigger freeze never happened again. But I just didn't like the look of the thing. Chose it because I was hesitant to take a hack-saw to the tang. But since I got wise to the Dremel's grinding power while removing the spot weld from my Draco's barrel nut, no worries. The heavy duty cut-off wheel makes short work of the tang and the fireworks are awesome! I've had this basic Dremel set for 15 years, but in the last 2 month's its become my best friend.... ATI Srikeforce folder replaced with CSS Receiver block, Ace folding mech, and 8.5" Ace Stock. There ya go... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willseeker 13 Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 ATI Srikeforce folder replaced with CSS Receiver block, Ace folding mech, and 8.5" Ace Stock. There ya go... Now that's mo' betta! I have the Ace folder on mine, after futsin' around with a plastic tapco. Nice work! And not a bad narrative either. Be well, Will p.s. think about sending some of the internals to Pauli. The guys' a magician! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crankywanker 7 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) edited Edited March 9, 2012 by crankywanker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DropKick867 9 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Latest update: As I mentioned in a separate thread to no avail, after replacing the ATI Strikeforce stock with an ACE 8.5" with folder mechanism rigged to fold left...I found the the folding mech's hinge prevented the attachment of my side-mount scope-rail.... SO: This evening my SGM tri-rail got converted to a quad-rail....I figure I can put some relatively cheap but rugged and wide-open red/green dot sight on it and rock and roll from that config.... The iron sights always shot about 4 inches to the left at about 12 yards,,,once I got the top-rail on, I can see that the front sight bead is a little wopper-jawed. (These Saigas are fun to tinker with and learn a few things, but I'm kind of beginning to wonder about the folks who put these things together on a daily basis...are you?) I was a little bummed that buying the top rail separate set me back a few more dollars than springing for the quad up front....but it came with a 10-32 drill bit and thread-tap set...so that kind of made up for it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mitch535 29 Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Let me first start by saying congrats on the successful conversion and subsequent updates. Secondly, let me say that your reply to "You have little feet" was very clever and I am now listening to some Stones as a result. I do have a question for anyone with the experience.. I have an 8.5" ACE stock and I am looking into a folder. I know there is the manual folder and the push button folder from CSS. If the bush button is, by its namesake, button operated... how does the manual folder operate? What locks it in the open position? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Spring pressure. You have to overcome the spring to get it to fold, once it's locked in it's groove in the open position the spring keeps it from folding, even during firing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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