zeppelin03 0 Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 I have converted me 7.62 Saiga and gone out to the range. Functions well, and its a blast to shoot. Will be switching out my hand guards but cannot decide whether to get a muzzle brake or not. Looking at dinzag I figured I would go with the 74 brake that is threaded enough to reach the FSP. Has anyone used this? Does the brake have a significant effect on recoil and muzzle climb, etc? Or is it going to end up being more for looks? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sergii 142 Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) Really effective muzzle brake can be seen here: http://talks.guns.ru/forummessage/54/850492.html Edited December 16, 2011 by Sergii Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjj342 632 Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 On saiga rifles, I dont think theres any brake or flash hider that will thread ALL THE WAY to the FSB. Just make sure you have your brake in your hand when you cut the shroud back. There have been a good many guys who have cut before knowing the inside thread length on their brake. Than they have to use a jam nut so the end of their gun doesnt look like shit, with a big gap showing. An original style 74 brake does a good job on muzzle climb. There are american made knockoffs that dont work as well. I think kvars 74style brake is good to the original design and works as it should. The tapco 74 brake isnt as good, from what ive heard. Just do some digging and youll find something that suits you. Welcome to the forum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zeppelin03 0 Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 That's the issue I have come accross. The knock offs are worthless apparently. Got to see if the make the real break in a 14x1 so I don't have to change out the front sight base. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjj342 632 Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 If the 74 style brake is the one you want, you will need an adapter. Just google "24mm to 14mm adapter" and you will find them. if you want to use a brake that doesnt need an adapter (14-1), PWS (primary weapon systems) has two decent brakes, the JTAC($65) and FSC($100). The jtac doesnt hide flash and the fsc tries to. But from what Ive seen, they both reduce muzzle climb pretty well, and similar to eachother. If you want to go really cheap, tapco makes the "slot brake". Its probably better than any other >$20 brake at reducing muzzle climb. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donkeyshins 87 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 I've got a jones for the Battlecomp AKBC, but it's pretty spendy... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjj342 632 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) I've got a jones for the Battlecomp AKBC, but it's pretty spendy... I wonder how it stacks up to a 50dollars less, PWS FSC? I cant say Ive heard alot about them, But they look very interesting. Edited December 31, 2011 by Boomsick42 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scattergun10 125 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 I have converted me 7.62 Saiga and gone out to the range. Functions well, and its a blast to shoot. Will be switching out my hand guards but cannot decide whether to get a muzzle brake or not. Looking at dinzag I figured I would go with the 74 brake that is threaded enough to reach the FSP. Has anyone used this? Does the brake have a significant effect on recoil and muzzle climb, etc? Or is it going to end up being more for looks? The 74 brakes are quite effective at reducing muzzle climb, so long as it's a real 74 brake and not a 74 style brake. The former having offset port holes, the latter having inline ones.(Dinzag's website explains this) As far as reducing recoil, it doesn't really reduce it as much as it "redirects" it, from up and back to down and back, into your shoulder. Hope this helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NM0 586 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Changed FSB out on the 5.45 and cut/threaded my 7.62. Didn't think the threading would be such a pain. Once I got the first couple threads started (with good leverage) I had no problem. Getting the FSC to index properly with crush washer took some fitting. Cutting old FSB off the 5.45 and installing new, drill and pin was pretty straightforward. I like the improved follow ups on both. Wife's 7.62 has no break and is fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anthony1 5 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Hey NMO, if you were to do it again which option do you prefer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NM0 586 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hey NMO, if you were to do it again which option do you prefer? I will be doing another FSB change on a 5.45 and will eventually thread the wife's rifle. Changing FSB is easier. Threading gives you more options. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 (edited) I've got a jones for the Battlecomp AKBC, but it's pretty spendy... I wonder how it stacks up to a 50dollars less, PWS FSC? I cant say Ive heard alot about them, But they look very interesting. The Battlecomp is worth the extra $50. Edited January 22, 2012 by Jim Digriz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TFALAMO 5 Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 On my 5.45 I used a small pipe cottuer to score the shroud, then used a hacksaw to cut it the rest of the way. The 5.45 doesn't have much recoil compared to the rest of the Saiga's. I think it even has less than the 5.56 depending on the load you are using. I put a Red Jacket M16 style flash hider on mine. I can change it out though if I decide I need something else. Once you have done it once, it's much easier the second time. Did my friends 5.45 in less than half the time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jeepranch 16 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 On my 5.45 I used a small pipe cottuer to score the shroud, then used a hacksaw to cut it the rest of the way. The 5.45 doesn't have much recoil compared to the rest of the Saiga's. I think it even has less than the 5.56 depending on the load you are using. I put a Red Jacket M16 style flash hider on mine. I can change it out though if I decide I need something else. Once you have done it once, it's much easier the second time. Did my friends 5.45 in less than half the time. did you have threads? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
themadhatter196 18 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 I would definitaly go the route of swapping out the fsb to one that is 24mm specifically bulgarian as they are easier and cheaper to find than russian ones. Markw has them for a better price than you can find on any online sites. They are pretty straight forward to get off and on usually without a press. 14mm threaded brakes are not very good at redirecting muzzle climb while the 24mm ones are a lot better. They are also more realistic than cutting the shroud and threading it is also cheaper. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 I happen to have a nice Bulgarian FSB and '74 brake for sale. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jaba1017 71 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 What's the best way to secure the brake if you don't have a plunger pin. I cut the shroud, threaded, and installed brake. Seems like loctite would just break free once it is heated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 What's the best way to secure the brake if you don't have a plunger pin. I cut the shroud, threaded, and installed brake. Seems like loctite would just break free once it is heated. Crush washer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jaba1017 71 Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 I had a crush washer on there but looking at it close I don't think I got enough torque on it to crush it. I think I got crushed this time and hopefully this will hold it on. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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