DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 I have a Saiga 12 24" with fixed sites that I can not get to eject with bulk pack ammo. I have a V-Plug in it set to the proper setting. I just ordered the CSS puck and front recoil spring for it and I hope this will help it. I've seen a lot of good reviews on the CSS puck. I may try the gas block mod that I saw here as well. Seems pretty simple to do. I will report back when I get my new parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D.C.MORRISON 494 Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 have you checked the ports? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 I can see 2 ports, but one looks like it may be covered just a tiny bit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 You should read the stickies. Where in ny? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) Utica area. I was just reading about the vodka specials. My s/n is H08439xxx. Edited December 26, 2011 by DeerSlayer7600 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) Very close # to mine (H08407xxx) and I have no "fix-it" parts. Polish and port job is all I did. I'd do that before anything else. BTW, I'm near Queensbury/Lake George. Edited December 26, 2011 by Yeoldetool Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 Yea, I think I'm gonna have the bolt and carrier polished at some point. I was looking at what fellow forum member Pauly does and I think I'm gonna have him do the work. What exactly did you do for a port job on yours? The Lake George area is a nice area. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) This thread....http://forum.saiga-1...tart-to-finish/ And this thread...http://forum.saiga-1...cked-gas-ports/ I did the polishing myself before Pauly started Steelin', but he's the man for polishing. I do have to add that I was EXTREMELY cautious about removing to much material. I will say that if you aren't confident that you can trust your own work, have a professional do it. Edited December 26, 2011 by Yeoldetool Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) Planning on doing the procedure in the second thread, probably will try drilling them like in the first thread too. Thanks for linking to that. Edited December 26, 2011 by DeerSlayer7600 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 Yea, I don't feel confident enough to polish the bolt and carrier myself. I don't want to screw it up so I will have Pauly do it. From the pictures and posts I've seen about his work, it looks like it's well worth it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 (edited) I have 2- 24" Saiga 12s and they are both converted. These are some of the things that I did to get them running well with bulk pack and MD-20s.... 3 ports @ .080" hammer and carrier reprofile feedramp reprofile and polish bolt reprofile Try the CSS puck without changing your spring. I let a friend try my brand new CSS puck in his 19" today and it ran better instantly. His was right on the edge of working with MD-20s and Federal bulk. I had never tried the CSS puck before and was impressed. That is saying a lot as I am not easily impressed. Changing the recoil spring is not something that I would recommend. What do you do when you want to fire buckshot or slugs? Something to think about.... there is a reason that it is named "Low Brass Reliability Kit" and not "Reliability Kit". It is intended for use with "low brass" ammo only. Edited December 27, 2011 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 (edited) Actually CSS says it will work with all 2 3/4" ammo as long as the proper setting on the plug is used. Its not hard to change the spring either as its just the front recoil spring which just pops off the recoil guide rod. I should have previously mentioned that this gun is not converted. Edited December 27, 2011 by DeerSlayer7600 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Groovy Mike 36 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Hope to try the CSS low brass kit in mine tomorrow. It has been shooting full power loads just fine, but target loads fail to eject 90% of the time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 (edited) Actually CSS says it will work with all 2 3/4" ammo as long as the proper setting on the plug is used. Its not hard to change the spring either as its just the front recoil spring which just pops off the recoil guide rod. I should have previously mentioned that this gun is not converted. See if it will run without changing the spring. It may be GTG without it the LRK spring and you can fire 3" shells without worrying about it. I have owned 6 Saiga 12s. All of them needed work and never once did I have to use a low power spring. Here is a good way to go about parts changes and modifications until you really get to know a weapon system inside and out and which symptoms point to the origin of the problem. Change one part at a time and test fire. Do one modification at a time and test fire. At least that way you will know exactly what it took to get the weapon where you want it and you can use the experience as a reference when you see the same symptoms again. I have fired these things so much that I can "feel" what they need by shooting them. Some need the whole damn book thrown at them, usually '08 IZ-109s. Edited December 27, 2011 by evlblkwpnz 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Just looked at my gas ports again. Definitely a 2 port gun and one is definitely partially obstructed by the gas block. Now I know thats part of the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Consummate 1 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 2 Port gun is going to need some work done to cycle the cheap stuff properly. Doesn't matter how many parts you add to it. Gonna need some port work for sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 When I ported mine it took 45 minutes from the decision point until it was put back together. It then cycled anything I put in it. I've often wondered if I didn't have to do the polishing job, which I did first. I probably would have ended up doing it anyway, and I'm happy I did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 How many ports does yours have? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Three that were .080 and I drill them out to .093. Mine is a 19" barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 I'll have to measure mine and see how much they need to be drilled. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 LOL It's more important to get the right size drill and make the holes that size. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Yea, I know. Do you think I can get away with making my two ports .093"? What I meant was I gotta gaughe them with some small bits to see roughly how big they are. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 (edited) Yea, I know. Do you think I can get away with making my two ports .093"? What I meant was I gotta gaughe them with some small bits to see roughly how big they are. Add one at .076"- .080" (probably the existing port size). It will keep the larger debris out of the gas block. 2 @ .093" would probably work, but I have never tried that port configuration. I'll do some math and see what that means, as far as port area goes. ETA: 2 @ .093" will be slightly less surface area than 3 @ .080". I would still go with 3 @ .080" because of the reduced debris. Edited December 27, 2011 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Yea, I know. Do you think I can get away with making my two ports .093"? What I meant was I gotta gaughe them with some small bits to see roughly how big they are. Add one at .076"- .080" (probably the existing port size). It will keep the larger debris out of the gas block. 2 @ .093" would probably work, but I have never tried that port configuration. I'll do some math and see what that means, as far as port area goes. Whats the best way to add another port? I don't have a drill press so I'm kinda limited to what I can use. I'm thinking dremel with a small bit in it, make a mark on the barrel with a center punch so i can start the bit easily at an an angle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Groovy Mike 36 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 CSS low brass reliability kit solved the problem in my S12. I did not try the parts seperately I just replaced the puck, plug, and spring at the same time and enjoyed flawless semiauto mag dumps This makes me happy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 I think what I'm gonna do is take the gas block off and file it out and put it back on and stick the css puck in it. I already have the v-plug in it so I will try it that way. If it doesnt work, then I'll ream the ports. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Why would you take the gas block off and not do the job? That's like wiping yourself with your underwear on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 I suppose I could ream the 2 ports to .093, but I dont really know how to add a third if needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 (edited) Buy a cheap set of punches it you don't have any. I usually make one 1/8" punch into a dedicated centerpunch. Grind a decent point on it and it will make a great place to start a hole. Is there a Lowes near you? The more expensive Kobalt bits are great for starting a new hole (about $3 each). Buy two small ones (1/16") and get 2 that are the size that you want the port to be (5/64" for .080" or 3/32" for .093"). Sometimes they will bind and break, so buying a spare or two of each is probably cheaper than running back to Lowes and getting another bit. You can always take any back that you do not use. Do not buy cheap bits, barrel steel will almost instantly dull cheap bits and you will become frustrated. I have done them with a hand-held drill and it isn't too hard if you use some aids. Stick something in one of the existing ports that will fit snug. This will be a guide for your drilling angle. If you are starting a new port, drill straight into the barrel for maybe 16" with the small bit, then slowly lay it back to match the guide. Go slow, heat ruins drill bits. A little cutting oil on there will help keep the heat down too. After getting the pre-drilling is done, switch to your larger bit and go slow with it for your final drilling. Don't apply too much pressure. You can remove any burrs with a copper bore brush or a cleaning rod, if you have some really stubborn ones. Gently file the outside of the barrel with a fine file to remove any raised burrs. Just don't go crazy or you may compromise the ability for the gas block to seal on the barrel. It might not hurt to see if there is someone near you that is experienced and is set up to do this or can come over to your place with some tools and lend a hand. Just ask, many here jump at the chance to go hang out with others who share like interests. A 6 pack of beer when it is done doesn't hurt either Edited December 28, 2011 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 I have punches. I just need to get bits and some small files from the Lowes nearby. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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