White Rider 1 Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 I have never been exposed to duracoat and am planning on duracoating my Saiga12 soon. I am looking for some tips on what to do and what not to do, I have a glass bead machine and I am wondering if this would be good to use to strip the factory paint off of the gun. Should i strip it all off or leave the paint on the internal section of the reviever? Also where should I not duracoat? Any information would be excellent and maybe some pictures of what you did and where you stayed away from would be even better. I plan on doing the reciever, barrel, gas tube, and dust cover. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) Well all I can offer up here is the same as always. Prep, prep and more prep. When you think the parts are clean, clean them again. Wash your hands, shit and oils on them transfer to parts, you'll end up with a blem spot. DuraCoat is applied in thin coats, 3 is about normal for me. So shooting paint on internal parts is no problem, blow color inside. Clean your paint gun after use, clean it well. Dried DuraCoat ain't comming out of it. Pics? there here around the board Edit to add; short of down the barrel, chamber face and bolt, I've DuraCoated everything from scopes to wood stocks, bolt carriers to mags. Edited January 2, 2012 by akastormi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
White Rider 1 Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 So I can glass bead inside the reciever and cover it all with duracoat and be fine? I have an airbrush that would be great for doing just that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 bead blast or just carb cleaner the paint off the inside. shoot it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott Kenny 144 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I thought you did NOT want duracoat on the internal rails? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Duracoat in the following areas is not conducive to reliability or ease of operation.... receiver rails trigger hammer axis pins retainer plate/spring disco disco spring feedramp barrel hood bore chamber lockup channels in trunnion recoil assembly bolt carrier where it rides the rails bottom of carrier anywhere the carrier contacts the bolt end of op rod any interior surface of the gas block puck barrel bore barrel threads muzzle device threads regulator (plug) regulator detent regulator detent spring regulator detent orifice gas block seat BHO BHO spring In a nutshell, Duracoat should only be applied on exterior surfaces. It is for asthetics and corrosion protection where the weapon probably will not be lubricated with petroleum products. It is an absolute PITA to get out of the weapon when someone goes crazy with it. I would use tin foil to block off areas that I did not want Duracoat in and maybe wire it on with bailing wire or floral wire if needed. Spray at angles that cover the intended surfaces only. I have never applied Duracoat, but have spent hours removing it from many of the aforementioned places in a weapon when the owner did not want to take it back down and redo the whole thing. Duracoating the bearing surfaces of the the weapon or anywhere that the shell/load contacts is not a good idea. Edited January 4, 2012 by evlblkwpnz 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 ^^^^^ This. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
markdavidson 28 Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 bead blast or just carb cleaner the paint off the inside. shoot it I don't have any experience with Duracoat in particular but have used gunkote (different duck), they do NOT recommend bead blasting but Aluminum oxide. the reason is that the glass beads just peen the surface instead of cutting and do not provide a grip. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
White Rider 1 Posted January 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) So thats a no go to glass beading? And basically in the reciever I just need to keep away from the rails and around the barrel correct? Do I need to strip the paint at all or should I just clean the gun with some thinner? Im planning on going with a dark grey. Edited January 5, 2012 by White Rider Quote Link to post Share on other sites
the mechanic 11 Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 +1 to prep, prep and more prep. Pay special attention to where the rivits are, they love to hold oil that will creep out after you've blasted. +1 to aluminum oxide. It creates enough texture for the finish to bite into. You can duracoat any part that was already covered with a factory finish. This includes inside the receiver. Just don't duracoat anything that wasn't previously coated by the factory and you'll be fine. Duracoat goes on at a thickness of .5 -1.5 mils if I remeber correctly. If an ak can run with a reciever full of dirt 1.5 thousands of an inch of coating that replaced the factory coating isn't going to hurt. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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