What's the best solvent to use for cleaning corrosive residue

[LocoToro 2]

I use the 5.45 x 39 military surplus ammo (sardine can). I usually go through 500+ rounds per session. I notice that I get an orange/ rust color residue specs on the piston. What is that s**t? I clean my guns after each use, using Hopps 9 solvent and lube. I was recently told that Hopps is not effective on corrosive ammo. What's a good solvent to use to nutralize corrosive residue?

 

Also, I heard that the gas tube dosen't need to be cleaned, that it burns off? I scrub the hell out of mine with a 12 ga bore brush and it takes a while to get all that gunk out. Is there a better technique?

[jimdigriz 580]

I use the 5.45 x 39 military surplus ammo (sardine can). I usually go through 500+ rounds per session. I notice that I get an orange/ rust color residue specs on the piston. What is that s**t? I clean my guns after each use, using Hopps 9 solvent and lube. I was recently told that Hopps is not effective on corrosive ammo. What's a good solvent to use to nutralize corrosive residue?

 

Also, I heard that the gas tube dosen't need to be cleaned, that it burns off? I scrub the hell out of mine with a 12 ga bore brush and it takes a while to get all that gunk out. Is there a better technique?

 

I use hot or boiling water to flush out or neutralize the corrosive salts. I shoot a bit of CLP into the bolt afterward and let it drain, and run either some patches or bore snake with Hoppe's or Gunzilla down the barrel. I leave the gas system bone dry after washing out the gas tube and gas block with boiling water. (It evaporates completely by itself; just shake it out a bit). It is NOT necessary to get all the gunk out in order to prevent rust.

 

You must clean the gas tube or it will rust. Boiling water is sufficient; it does not need to be spic and span.

 

By the way, "neutralizing" the salts is not strictly necessary. I find that simple wiping out affected areas (such as gas piston or inside of top cover) works fine.

 

Don't make using corrosive ammo a miserable affair. Spend about 15 minutes cleaning it and be done. No need to scrub it like an AR, except every once in a while. My cleaning routine has gotten shorter and shorter as I've gained experience with corrosive ammo.

Edited January 17, 2012 by Jim Digriz

[ChileRelleno 7,074]

No shit... Water, hot is better, but cold works too.

When I shoot corrosive Yugo Milsurp in my S-7.62, I usually use hot water to dissolve the corrosive salts.

I pour it down both the barrel & gas tube and in the receiver, then I shake the excess water out/off, air dry, run a few dry patches and then lube as usual.

That or I just use the water hose to thoroughly wash the whole thing down.

 

By the way, Hoppes is effective at dissolving corrosive salts, use it liberally.

I used to buy it by the liter (much cheaper that way), plug the bore and fill it up, let sit a few minutes and clean as usual.

Water is even cheaper, so...

 

The specks of color you're seeing are most likely sealant used on the primers/cases.

Look at your ammo, is it sealed around either the primer or case neck?

[termite 463]

I've seen some guys pouring Windex down their barrels at the range, thought they where crazy as a shit house rat, but I don't know for sure. That is, about EITHER.

[jimdigriz 580]

I've seen some guys pouring Windex down their barrels at the range, thought they where crazy as a shit house rat, but I don't know for sure. That is, about EITHER.

 

Water is cheaper. What makes Windex useful for cleaning corrosive is the water. You really don't want the ammonia.

[ChileRelleno 7,074]

I've seen some guys pouring Windex down their barrels at the range, thought they where crazy as a shit house rat, but I don't know for sure. That is, about EITHER.

They're not crazy... Well maybe... But not about the Windex.

Same thing as water basically, with some soap, surfectants and sometimes ammonia.

I would not put Windex with Ammonia down a chromed barrel, and not wash it off within minutes.

Ammonia etches chrome, nickel and other metals.

 

Another reason I stopped using Hoppes was, Hoppes has ammonia too.

For a definitive answer I called Hoppe’s (Subsidiary of Bushnell). This is what their response was:

Hoppe’s #9 is a safe solvent for all guns. However, prolonged contact with nickel, chrome or aluminum is not recommended with any Hoppe’s solvents. In addition chrome or aluminum should not be soaked or submerged in any Hoppe’s solvent. The reason is that the slightest scratch or nick in the plating, the solvents will penetrate the flaw and dissolve the underlying copper substrate & cause the chrome/nickel plating to chip & peel further. Therefore, when using on plated or lined items keep the solvent to a minimum.

When applying Hoppe’s solvent to the applicable parts should be wiped dry. Hoppe’s does contain a water based Ammonia however, it is diluted. So no prolonged exposure, wipe it out dry and you'll be fine.

 

LOL... Jim and I are definitely on the same page.

[jimdigriz 580]

Another reason I stopped using Hoppes was, Hoppes has ammonia too.

 

I've got a few small bottles left, but I'm switching to Gunzilla for almost everything. It's plant-based, and I don't worry about it getting on my skin. The smell also doesn't start my wife to grumping like Hoppe's does.

[ChileRelleno 7,074]

Another reason I stopped using Hoppes was, Hoppes has ammonia too.

I've got a few small bottles left, but I'm switching to Gunzilla for almost everything. It's plant-based, and I don't worry about it getting on my skin. The smell also doesn't start my wife to grumping like Hoppe's does.

I've just under a liter left, I still use it for somethings, once its gone is gone.

For specific cIeaning applications I prefer KG-1 Carbon Remover, KG-12 Big Bore (copper cleaner), and for general purposes Break-Free CLP.

[LocoToro 2]

No shit... Water, hot is better, but cold works too.

When I shoot corrosive Yugo Milsurp in my S-7.62, I usually use hot water to dissolve the corrosive salts.

I pour it down both the barrel & gas tube and in the receiver, then I shake the excess water out/off, air dry, run a few dry patches and then lube as usual.

That or I just use the water hose to thoroughly wash the whole thing down.

 

By the way, Hoppes is effective at dissolving corrosive salts, use it liberally.

I used to buy it by the liter (much cheaper that way), plug the bore and fill it up, let sit a few minutes and clean as usual.

Water is even cheaper, so...

 

The specks of color you're seeing are most likely sealant used on the primers/cases.

Look at your ammo, is it sealed around either the primer or case neck?

There is a red ring around the case neck. I'm just worried that it's rust. But rust couldn't form that fast.

[NM0 586]

+1 on Gunzilla. I been using it for a couple years now. Great stuff.

 

No problems after 1K through the 5.45 with hot water, compressed air and regular cleaning using Gunzilla.

Edited January 17, 2012 by NM0

[LocoToro 2]

I use the 5.45 x 39 military surplus ammo (sardine can). I usually go through 500+ rounds per session. I notice that I get an orange/ rust color residue specs on the piston. What is that s**t? I clean my guns after each use, using Hopps 9 solvent and lube. I was recently told that Hopps is not effective on corrosive ammo. What's a good solvent to use to nutralize corrosive residue?

 

Also, I heard that the gas tube dosen't need to be cleaned, that it burns off? I scrub the hell out of mine with a 12 ga bore brush and it takes a while to get all that gunk out. Is there a better technique?

 

I use hot or boiling water to flush out or neutralize the corrosive salts. I shoot a bit of CLP into the bolt afterward and let it drain, and run either some patches or bore snake with Hoppe's or Gunzilla down the barrel. I leave the gas system bone dry after washing out the gas tube and gas block with boiling water. (It evaporates completely by itself; just shake it out a bit). It is NOT necessary to get all the gunk out in order to prevent rust.

 

You must clean the gas tube or it will rust. Boiling water is sufficient; it does not need to be spic and span.

 

By the way, "neutralizing" the salts is not strictly necessary. I find that simple wiping out affected areas (such as gas piston or inside of top cover) works fine.

 

Don't make using corrosive ammo a miserable affair. Spend about 15 minutes cleaning it and be done. No need to scrub it like an AR, except every once in a while. My cleaning routine has gotten shorter and shorter as I've gained experience with corrosive ammo.

I never thought just plain H2O can do the trick. I'll definitely try it out next time. Eventhough, I do enjoy the smell of Hopps. Thanks for the tip.

[ChileRelleno 7,074]

No shit... Water, hot is better, but cold works too.

When I shoot corrosive Yugo Milsurp in my S-7.62, I usually use hot water to dissolve the corrosive salts.

I pour it down both the barrel & gas tube and in the receiver, then I shake the excess water out/off, air dry, run a few dry patches and then lube as usual.

That or I just use the water hose to thoroughly wash the whole thing down.

 

By the way, Hoppes is effective at dissolving corrosive salts, use it liberally.

I used to buy it by the liter (much cheaper that way), plug the bore and fill it up, let sit a few minutes and clean as usual.

Water is even cheaper, so...

 

The specks of color you're seeing are most likely sealant used on the primers/cases.

Look at your ammo, is it sealed around either the primer or case neck?

There is a red ring around the case neck. I'm just worried that it's rust. But rust couldn't form that fast.

It is the case sealant.

 

And yes, plain'ol H2o.

Edited January 17, 2012 by ChileRelleno

[BigChongus 765]

I just use hot water and dishsoap. That's all you need. 1080+ rounds later and my 5.45 is 100% rust free.

 

By the way, you can't "neutralize" the salts. That's nothing but an old wives tale, so forget the Windex. You have to physically remove them, i.e wash them out.

[silverphoenix 11]

Has no one mentioned Ballistol yet? Really? Works like a charm!

[my762buzz 141]

Salt residue needs to be flushed with water. When you sweat and observe salt crystals on your skin do you run to spray yourself with windex or head for the shower? If you get salt on your steel knives, forks, or spoons in the kitchen, do you hose your flatwear with windex or wash them? Hotter water works even faster.

[thebuns1 4,323]

the only thing i use for the three rifles i have that see corrosive ammo is break free clp. i never had a problem with rust. its only a problem if you make it one. there are several methods that work.

[baraban7.62 20]

guys, you honestly think the Russian soldiers go through all those crazy procedures to clean their rifles? Comon lets get real, AK is an AK for a reason, just clean it normaly and lube it

[jimdigriz 580]

guys, you honestly think the Russian soldiers go through all those crazy procedures to clean their rifles? Comon lets get real, AK is an AK for a reason, just clean it normaly and lube it

 

Who knows what they do, but I do know that my gas tube, piston, and gas block will definitely rust if I do not attend to them. But when I clean normally my other rifles, I don't clean those areas.

[G O B 3,516]

I use a dry brush first, then a mop with Hoppe's #9. After cleaning use Mobil1 5W30 or equivelant the additives in good motor oil will penetrate and dissolve any remaining salts or acids.

 

Real men smell of Hoppe's #9 and cigars!

[ChileRelleno 7,074]

guys, you honestly think the Russian soldiers go through all those crazy procedures to clean their rifles? Comon lets get real, AK is an AK for a reason, just clean it normaly and lube it

Huh, "...all those crazy procedures....", some water in addition to normal cleaning is crazy?

Don't know about you, but I'm looking to keep my rifles in as good as shape as possible for my lifetime.

And I don't have access to an military armorer/armory to have my barrel replaced, nor any other repairs if needs be.

So I go an extra step, a little TLC goes a long ways.

[BigChongus 765]

Btw, slightly off topic, but for getting carbon out of the gas tube and of the piston face, Comet works amazingly well (This stuff):

 

[G O B 3,516]

Watch out for Comet,like most cleansers it is quartz and very hard and agressive. BonAmi or Bartender's Friend are feldspar and will be a lot kinder to machined surfaces. Learned this from the old German who taught me how to field lap elevator gears.

[TARE 47]

Forget the fancy pricey options, and forget believing you'll ever just neutralize the salts, you either are going to be using some odd chemicals or just end up diluting or washing it out the same as if you used hot soapy water.

 

Hot water (hotter picks up shit easier) or just plain any water. if you want to get crazy add a small amount of soap or chase with alcohol these will help pick up other fouling. Then just get the thing dry however you choose compressed air, cloth or paper towel if you need. Then use you favorite oil and be done with it. Spend the extra money you'd waste on solvent buying a good CLP to use for your oil.

[jiffydarren 0]

Hoppes + bore snake =

 

[incognito485 26]

Water + Ballistol works great. Just don't forget to clean the inside of your muzzle break, unless you want a ton of shit caked on your barrel crown. You can "dissolve" the salts with certain types of cleaner. Old WWII GI Cleaner will do it if you wanna use the nasty shit.

[rjwillow 5]

Basically... it's hot water that does the work. Then lube it. But I'll give some insight into some of the other stuff and some other recipes.

The windex thing comes from when they used to make an ammonia free product with vinegar and lemon. I used to have a 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallons of water and 1/2 a bottle of that windex in my truck. I would take the grips offf my blackpowder and fast draw guns that shot blackpowder blanks and drop them in. After sloshing around in there on the way home from the range or competition everything was nice and loose. I'd drop them into another empty bucket and hose them down, let them dry (or blow out with a compressor) and lube them.

Apple cider vinegar in water is also good. Baking soda in water may help "neutralize". I used to do a second bucket with baking soda in water when I got home before rinsing but eventually dismissed it.

Ballistol and/or hoppes will work w/out water if you soak it. But water is cheap. A slop sink is convenient. Or a kitchen sink and an understanding wife....

I've used my dishwasher and clotheswasher for a few things and got into trouble...

Just find what is convenient and don't sweat it

later

rich

[my762buzz 141]

Salts CAN NOT be neutralized. Acids can be neutralized. Bases can be neutralized. Neutralizing an acid or a base produces a salt.

http://www.elmhurst.edu/~chm/vchembook/183neutral.htm

Corrosive ammo is corrosive because it results in salt residues, NOT acid NOR base residues.

 

Salts are ionic compounds which can dissolve in water. Hot water would have the best dissolving ability.

 

Oil will not dissolve salts but will prevent or minimize the reactive nature of the salt which draws moisture from the air which would lead to corrosion.

 

You can either remove the salt entirely and be done with it, or if you can't do a full cleaning right then and there oil coating will buy you time until.

 

The main thing to consider is that for corrosion to occur you need water and free oxygen. Salt residue draws water from the air and the salt itself acts

 

to speed up the corrosion process faster than if it were just water and oxygen.

[BigChongus 765]

Salts CAN NOT be neutralized. Acids can be neutralized. Bases can be neutralized. Neutralizing an acid or a base produces a salt.

http://www.elmhurst..../183neutral.htm

Corrosive ammo is corrosive because it results in salt residues, NOT acid NOR base residues.

 

Salts are ionic compounds which can dissolve in water. Hot water would have the best dissolving ability.

 

Oil will not dissolve salts but will prevent or minimize the reactive nature of the salt which draws moisture from the air which would lead to corrosion.

 

You can either remove the salt entirely and be done with it, or if you can't do a full cleaning right then and there oil coating will buy you time until.

 

The main thing to consider is that for corrosion to occur you need water and free oxygen. Salt residue draws water from the air and the salt itself acts

 

to speed up the corrosion process faster than if it were just water and oxygen.

 

Thanks you

[LocoToro 2]

Salts CAN NOT be neutralized. Acids can be neutralized. Bases can be neutralized. Neutralizing an acid or a base produces a salt.

http://www.elmhurst..../183neutral.htm

Corrosive ammo is corrosive because it results in salt residues, NOT acid NOR base residues.

 

Salts are ionic compounds which can dissolve in water. Hot water would have the best dissolving ability.

 

Oil will not dissolve salts but will prevent or minimize the reactive nature of the salt which draws moisture from the air which would lead to corrosion.

 

You can either remove the salt entirely and be done with it, or if you can't do a full cleaning right then and there oil coating will buy you time until.

 

The main thing to consider is that for corrosion to occur you need water and free oxygen. Salt residue draws water from the air and the salt itself acts

 

to speed up the corrosion process faster than if it were just water and oxygen.

Dude! You completely ansewered my corrosion question. And, backed up the H2O process.

 

This thread is now completed.

 

Thanks!

Edited February 3, 2012 by LocoToro

[IPSC45 8]

Well.....how about cleaning the right-angle gas port that comes off the top of the barrrel...makes a right-hand ( or shallow-angle) turn...and ends up as the spigot that thr removable gas tube fits in.

 

How do you clean THAT area out ????