robfromga 39 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 (edited) Man I swear I searched. I'm at 95% with this gun and my next step is the ports. Need to Yank the block and measure, redrill. Can't find the thread, thought it was pinned? I did find the thread about the air hammer and brass tube. I've got a electric rotary hammer with a hammer only setting. Any way, any one have the link bookmarked? Sorry for the newb questions. Edited January 21, 2012 by robfromga Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 No but I remember the way I did mine if that helps... drive out both pins and then I just used a hammer and a flat-blade screwdriver. Whack that screwdriver good on the portion of the gas block between the barrel and gas tube. It'll drift. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bridis 319 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Remove both pins, hit with hammer using a piece of soft metal or wood as a buffer. Done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pitbulld45 23 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 I tried the hammer and a 1/8 inch thick piece of steel. I bent the piss out of the steel and didnt get far. I did the air hammer and it went right off then got it back on like butter same way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 I got one pin out, the other is TIGHT! Broke two punches so far. Brass punches any better? Its on a solid surface. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Grind one of the broken punches to 1/4" or less with a nice flat end. Start it with the short punch. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Grind one of the broken punches to 1/4" or less with a nice flat end. Start it with the short punch. Yeah, they broke at the base. Great idea! The smallest "good" punch I found is 1/8"...too big so I'm going to try and grind it smaller. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Do NOT grind them to a point, I'm sure you already know this but we all brain-fart and F-up from time-to-time just thought I'd try to prevent that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 (edited) Looky looky a 4 port gun, gas block was covering the 4th hole. Should I just enlarge the gas blocks openeing? Can I do it by angling a drill bit and "wallering" out the hole? Wallering is a very technical southern term. What size should the ports be? 5/64 bit will not fit. Edited January 22, 2012 by robfromga Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pitbulld45 23 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I would go ahead and use the 5/64th bit on the ports then use a file and enlarge the part of the block that was covering the 4th port. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/55377-my-saiga-12-from-start-to-finish/ Read this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hey guys, thanks for the info. I'm going to open the barrel ports to 5/64 and work the block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Dremel chain-saw sharpening needle stone is the quickest way to enlarge the hole in the block correctly, then dress with a file. If top pin is IMPOSSIBLE, a good #1 victor J-100 tip on a torch can focus the heat on, & loosen the pin enough to be driven out..... 3/32" carbon steel rod heat treated/hardened works as a replacement pin. (I just so happen to have 3/32 4130 arc-rod) It's an absolute last resort to hot-wrench it though.... Sometimes the factory will drill from both sides at different angles if they notice they start out wrong, then they manage to press the pin in & the pin's pressed in, but bent in there at the same time. It's very rare, but a real royal sonofabitch if they do that. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Went back together way easier that it came apart. Notes : 1 its a 2011 gun 2. 4 ports, the one closest to the muzzle blocked 3. All ports less than 5/64 4. 3 of the 4 ports drilled closer to 70 degrees than 45 I resized the holes and added some angle to them. I was able to own the gas block with a dremel bit. Lightly coated the block and the barrel and it tapped right into place. I did have a MD booster puck, but I put the stock one in. Hope to shoot it tomorrow and tune the tac47 auto plug. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TopOfClimb 1 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 This is the thread: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/33836-modification-to-repair-fte-issues-on-saigas-with-blocked-gas-ports/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Got a chance to shoot it. I still had a odd fte with the factory plug. I switched to a MD arms booster Puck. Put in the tac47 plug and it worked! I did have to run the adjuster screw in pretty far, but no fte's . So should I open the ports anymore? 5/64 on 4 ports. Polished and profiled the carrier and bolt. Cycles pretty smooth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pitbulld45 23 Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 I think you need to focus on cutting down friction now and see where that lands you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) I think you need to focus on cutting down friction now and see where that lands you Dude I've polished the shit outta this thing. The only part that isn't deeply profiled is the head of the bolt, what would contact the round waiting to be chambered. Edited January 24, 2012 by robfromga Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 If it runs, leave it alone! Holes are a BITCH to undrill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fumes 84 Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 If it runs, leave it alone! Holes are a BITCH to undrill. , Yeah if he didn't have that much trouble getting it apart to begin with then I'd just file the block and see what that gets him. One thing at a time til it runs then stop or you'll end up fixing it to death. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 One thing at a time til it runs then stop or you'll end up fixing it to death. +1 on this!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 If it runs, leave it alone! Holes are a BITCH to undrill. , Yeah if he didn't have that much trouble getting it apart to begin with then I'd just file the block and see what that gets him. One thing at a time til it runs then stop or you'll end up fixing it to death. I think most of my trouble was the wrong punch and never doing it before. The block is clear of the ports. Given that I had to use a booster, should I up size the ports? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 I'm not a pro builder or gun guru, just an old an old mechanic used to making thing work! That said, drilling in parts that cannot be replaced should always be the LAST resort! Work up to the problem methodically. Break it in. Try a BJ buffer, try no buffer. Lightly polish the friction surfaces. ( again, a FCG is readily available so you can be a bit more agressive there, it is replacable, the bolt and carrier ARE NOT). If it NEEDS more gas HOW MUCH??? If it is close increase ONE hole slightly. If it is WAY off, maybe two. If you need more you can always drill more or go larger but it is damn near impossible to put those little shavings BACK into the hole!!! The SMALLEST gas holes that will cycle the action will give you the smoothest action and will be the CLEANEST RUNNING! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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