JC GoF 70 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 I don't know if this color will help but what I did was sand down about 3/4 of the red and went over with EBONY minwax #2718 and I love the way it looks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted March 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 It's a bit late for that now. I finally tracked down some dye. I have a few coats of black and blue transtint dye (water based.) applied and buffed off with steel wool. I've crossed several combinations that looked good on one piece or the other, and presently have a compromise that "matches" more or less. I was already to seal it with some urethane and be done, but I walked outside and it looked completely different in day light. I think I will hit them with another coat or two of diluted black, rebuff and see if I can end up with something greyer. If It were just beech, I might have gone with blonde/ grey alone. The beech has a pinkish/orangeish tone that it adds. After bleaching for ~ 10 hours, the walnut was almost white. I could have done less, but some parts wanted to stay considerably darker than others. I decided it was better to start with uniform and darken my way up. This made the grain stand up and undid all my sanding. I had to let it dry for a few days and resand before dye. I sanded, then burnished as instructed above. The walnut was much thirstier, and takes the color much faster. I made the dye aprox 1/4 strength. I have done about 3 passes of black and 2 of blue then 1 black again. This roughly matches 5 black, 2 blue, 1 black, and another blue followed by 1 of each with a rag that was only damp with color. The match is about as close as I expect to get. I buffed with oooo steel wool between each. This was necessary for texture and to see what I was doing. the black leaves it solid and dirty black with a soot like appearance, until you buff it then the grain comes back and looks good. Particularly on the walnut which looked really good after about 2 passes of black and buffing. I would have stopped there if I could have got the beech to match. In house light, they are Grey with silver grain, and a hint of blue tone. Outside, they are bold blue with grey grain and silver glints. I think I will end up doing another two or so of black, but I want to put this on the gun and see how I feel about it first. I'll post some pictures later of the different stages, so others can use my results as a guide. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 (edited) All done. Here is the progress. I passed a bunch of different color blends that looked good, but had to keep going back and forth until I could get something that matched on both and looked the way I wanted. I had to bleach the walnut fore grip to almost white before it was an even tone all over. This color on the fore grip looked good to me. Edited April 3, 2012 by GunFun Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Buffing with steel wool and more coats of dye. A bit more blue needed. That pink from the Beech really shows through. 2 blue and 3 black later. or something like that. A bit "loud" for my tastes, but pretty. It was tempting to stop there too. However, the match was off. Getting close though. two or three more layers of black on the front, and about 3 of each on the back to go. buffing with steel wool between most coats to check progress. Time for a few coats of urethane: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 On the gun and ready for fun! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 I have been playing in the wood shop, and it looks like MinWax red mahogany oil stain with a BLO/paraffin wax finish will work well to make Romy wood look GOOD! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 That would have been easier, if that was what I was going for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted August 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 Here is a cross-link to the thread about the fitting the stock and recoil pads. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/72311-guide-comfortable-wood-goodness-with-a-modern-touch/&do=findComment&comment=794166 don't know why I didn't put that in before. I hope this helps people find useful info. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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