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I'm goin for it - cutting off the stock for dummies


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You've got the right idea. And starting off with it long and getting is squared up with the extra length is a great idea. If you can't get it cut straight and sqaure at 1", 2", 3", or whatever, you

I thought of that too, but the final cut is close enough to the end that the pistol grip is in the line of cut.. I would wonder if the blade might nick the grip to get all the way through...   On an

Guys, just to be clear, I have zero "skillset" and I did it. If you have a level, a file and a hacksaw your in. Seriously, I am so far from handy it would make you laugh.

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Thanks for posting the pictures Cobra.

 

When I get one I am going to put it on the miter saw with the complete upper on it and butt the picatinny rail up to the miter fence to keep things square. Of course, it would be a dry run to see how things looked and felt before I made the plunge cut.

 

jonblack

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Thanks guys. With a blade like that you can actually cut through solid aluminum.... plastic is no problem.

 

NB the Chaos rail is still being fit to the Akdal. I need to fab up the retainers. It fits good though (turned around backwards) and the rail height can be matched perfectly.

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for posting the pictures Cobra.

 

When I get one I am going to put it on the miter saw with the complete upper on it and butt the picatinny rail up to the miter fence to keep things square. Of course, it would be a dry run to see how things looked and felt before I made the plunge cut.

 

jonblack

 

Can't really do that or you will start cutting into the PG before the blade gets through the stock....hence the wood blocks to space it out far enough to just clear.

 

Next time I'm going to use the table saw instead, with a jig to hold the receiver / stock level and square to the miter gauge. With a 10" carbide tipped blade cranked all the way up, it will be easier to cut the stock off without risking cutting into the PG.

 

Of course, now that Tromix has the new AR PG adapters for sale, that doesn't matter as much...

 

wink.png

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Thanks for posting the pictures Cobra.

 

When I get one I am going to put it on the miter saw with the complete upper on it and butt the picatinny rail up to the miter fence to keep things square. Of course, it would be a dry run to see how things looked and felt before I made the plunge cut.

 

jonblack

 

Can't really do that or you will start cutting into the PG before the blade gets through the stock....hence the wood blocks to space it out far enough to just clear.

 

Cobra, thanks for the update. That makes a lot of sense.

 

jonblack

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So at this point I am much more comfortable with doing the real cut. A couple of things I should mention before anyone goes out and does what I did: First - I don't have any and don't know if this 90degree assumption I made is correct.

 

Can someone give an update if 90° is the correct cut angle?

 

Also, Cobra, can you explain this picture a little more and explain the difference between the line drawn on the stock and the line on the protractor? Is that just the angular difference in the picatinny rail and the stock?

 

 

Thank you

jonblack

Edited by jonblack
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So at this point I am much more comfortable with doing the real cut. A couple of things I should mention before anyone goes out and does what I did: First - I don't have any and don't know if this 90degree assumption I made is correct.

 

Can someone give an update if 90° is the correct cut angle?

 

Also, Cobra, can you explain this picture a little more and explain the difference between the line drawn on the stock and the line on the protractor? Is that just the angular difference in the picatinny rail and the stock?

 

 

Thank you

jonblack

 

When you are prepping the rear of a receiver to accept a stock, the angle you cut depends on the stock adapter you are using, what kind of stock you use, and the angle you want it to sit at. Some people have different preferences. Some want a stock that's straight in line with the bore. Some prefer it to have a slightly downward angle to help counter recoil. Some will even intentionally mount it at a slightly upward angle if it's a folder, so when it folds the butt end sits lower than the charging handle where it can be folded to the same side and not interfere. This isn't really a concern with the Akdal, but more with an AK or S-12, on which the charging handle sits just high enough to make it possible. To mount a skeleton folder on the Akdal, you have to set it up folding to the opposite side of the charging handle. On the Saiga, the rear of the receiver needs to be trimmed at a slightly downward angle if you want to mount a stock flush to the back of it, and have it end up being straight. The newer internal receiver block adapters are made with a corrected angle to account for this, so they can be attached to an unmodified receiver, and the stock will sit down more in line with the bore. If you look back at old pics of Saigas with stock adapters and Ace (or other folding or collapsing) stocks attached to them, most of them look funny with an upward angle to them and not straight with the bore, unless the receivers were trimmed. To be able to properly manage recoil, and keep the gun on target, the stock needs to be straight or at a slightly downward angle.

All that said... the mark I made first on the one in the pics, was at 90 degrees to the top rail, because the Tromix adapter is square, and the top rail is in line with the bore. This will put the top of a skeleton stock, or the collapsing tube of an AR stock, straight in line with the bore.

I then drew a second line at a 1 degree angle toward the front at the bottom, thinking about setting it up with a downward angle. Then after test fitting I changed my mind and adjusted it to being more square. Should have clarified that. I'll most likely cut all of them square in the future. (90 degrees)

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Thank you for your reply Cobra. I appreciate your taking the time to give us info.

 

I always thought the angle was to allow the shooter to get a proper check weld to be about to see through the sights. My wife's Kel Tec Sub 2000 has a straight stock and the check weld you get does not give a good sight picture.

 

I do like the way straight stocks look, though. It appears more "correct" even though I know there are other factors.

 

Thanks again

jonblack

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  • 1 month later...

Do these accept the mil-spec or commercial tubes?

 

The Tromix adapters do not accept buffer tubes. There is a mounting location so that you can mount a Tromix (or similar) fixed stock or an ACE "pig nose" buffer tube adapter. Futher, mil spec or commercial buffer AR-15 buffer tubes have the same size threads, just different diameters where the adjustable stock slides on.

 

So, the answer is: If you use an ACE buffer tube adapter you can use either a mil-spec or commercial buffer tube.

 

jonblack

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  • 3 months later...

Wow, so I'm much more confident about doing this myself this weekend

 

My buddy has a table saw like Cobra 76 two

Hopefully it turns out alright. I'd hate to have to wait MONTHS for a replacement lower

 

Edit: Yeah screw the table saw, it was a lot easier to use a hacksaw and then just grind the cut into desired form

Edited by FoxHound
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My stock conversion is done. It was a simple PROCESS, but sanding and filing out the tiny details was a nightmare to say the least

 

 

 

oh hi there air-compressor tools. Nice to meet you. Thanks for lending a hand :)

IMAG0131.jpg

 

 

After properly measuring and marking the cutting points with tape, I used a hacksaw to cut off majority of the stock, then I removed the factory screw that held the upper and lower together. After separating the lower, I used this sanding disc on an aircompressor thingamajig (I went to my Boeing friend's house to borrow it. Made life so much easier though I have no idea what theyre actually called haha) to fit the adapter as best as I could.

 

Then I used this metal dremel grinder thingamajig to grind away at the adapter itself to make the tromix screw angle appropriately in order to place the adapter into the cut portion of the receiver.

It's not perfect, but it works and I like it a helluva lot more than the factory plastic buttstock.

IMAG0132.jpg

 

 

Voila

 

MKA1919convertedstockv1.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Tony,

I just lopped off my stock with no trouble but.....

I am having trouble lining up the adapter hole to the upeer reciever. I have a Tromix part. Any thoughts?

 

Double check the length, if your much over the .6 , that changes the angle of the bolt in relation to the reciever. We've had one where the recess's that the two bosses fit into was off , quite a bit wider on one side than the other.

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Tony,

I just lopped off my stock with no trouble but.....

I am having trouble lining up the adapter hole to the upeer reciever. I have a Tromix part. Any thoughts?

 

Double check the length, if your much over the .6 , that changes the angle of the bolt in relation to the reciever. We've had one where the recess's that the two bosses fit into was off , quite a bit wider on one side than the other.

Thanks. I had to lower the adapter a touch. I'm right at .604-.605 on the stock. I do have a 1-2 degree cut on the stock from the top down. Wondering if the XN version is different.

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  • 2 months later...

I used a skill saw at .800 and then just filed it down to .602 (the bolt and the upper have a hard time aligning though it works, not sure if i can fix it much, now that im down to .6)

 

also echoing the point to use blue painters tape to easily identify the NO CUT ZONE

Edited by Ignition
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Has anyone tried using a fine tooth bandsaw? I have a miter saw but I am weary of using it for this.......

 

I used a horizontal band saw with a fine tooth blade on it. it cut it nice. i then used and belt sander and a file to finish it.

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Here is a thought. Maybe someone can see a flaw in the plan.

 

I have a sled I made for my table saw. It is straight and true on all angles. It has two tracks on the bottom to run in the miter slots. The blade passes up through the sled so that you can cut parts that don't fit well on a standard miter.

I am thinking of placing the gun upside down on it's rail. Then clamp it front to back, and top to bottom, using shims to assure a 90 degree cut front to back. Then raise the blade to the proper height, easily clearing the PG. Slide the sled through and start sanding and filing.

 

Does anyone see an issue with this plan?

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