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Newb with a tromix shark brake WTF question


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OK, finally back in the states and I got to putz around with my new S12. I went to throw the shark brake on and something was not right. Am I mistaken, or is this thing supposed to thread on? I threw the barrel nut on and go to install the brake, and low and behold, it's smooth on the inside. Not one thread inside the brake. Am I missing something here?

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Maybe it was a weld on version and was mistakenly sent to you or you accidentally ordered the wrong one. If it is defective, I have no doubt that Tromix will handle it, if it is indeed their product and not a copy.

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You can send it back here and I will send you an S-12 one, no charge.

 

Tony Rumore

Tromix

Tromix Corp.

20039 E. 600 Road

Inola, OK 74036

 

When you send it in, make sure and include a note explaining what the deal was and what you want. AND your return address!

 

NICE, you just earned my business in the future

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  • 2 months later...

My Tromix Shark Brake had problems fitting onto my barrel threads. I used CLP, then brushed both brake and barrel, wiped clean, applied Rem Oil and eventually got it on. It was a tight fit and the ports lined up perfet. I removed and replaced it a few times, but recently I've replaced it and now the little port holes face to the left when tightened. I can back it off to line the ports to face up, but the brake is loose that way. Should I just apply lock tite or is there another issue that needs to be addressed here?

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I am an idiot. That is all.

 

What was that statement all about?

 

When you posted reply number 15, had you even taken the time to read the OP's original question?

Maybe post 15 was for post 14.Did you read post 14? Edited by rnemhrd
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I am an idiot. That is all.

 

What was that statement all about?

 

When you posted reply number 15, had you even taken the time to read the OP's original question?

Maybe post 15 was for post 14.Did you read post 14?

 

Yes I did read the original and let myself get off track. My bad! I was replying to post #14 and didn't make that clear. Should have use the quotes or not replies to it at all. It wasn't related to the OP. Sorry!

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My Tromix Shark Brake had problems fitting onto my barrel threads. I used CLP, then brushed both brake and barrel, wiped clean, applied Rem Oil and eventually got it on. It was a tight fit and the ports lined up perfet. I removed and replaced it a few times, but recently I've replaced it and now the little port holes face to the left when tightened. I can back it off to line the ports to face up, but the brake is loose that way. Should I just apply lock tite or is there another issue that needs to be addressed here?

 

When you install the brake, you have two choices:

 

1. Use loctite and tighten, back off until the holes are up (this is what we do and recommend)

2. Use a barrel nut.

 

Due to the nature of mechanical threading, there's no way to manufacture the brake where the holes will end up correct when tightened.

 

 

Also, while the threading on our brakes is CNC and very consistent, the same can't be said for the factory barrel threading.

 

You wouldn't believe how bad they are sometimes.

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You wouldn't believe how bad they are sometimes.

 

I would.

 

Mine are horrible! I have a Shark Brake as well and it won't go on. I believe it was you that said I could send it in for refund/exchange but we recently moved and now I can't find it! wet_eyes.gif

 

TROMIX does ROCK!!!! Great folks to deal with for sure!

 

If I can find mine does your offer still stand? Any tips on how to get it on WITHOUT destroying the threads?

 

THANKS GUYS!!!!

 

 

FTS

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You've got to look at the muzzle threads carefully. Most of the time they are cut too shallow.

 

A patient man with a triangle file might be able to deepen them up, or you can rent/borrow a muzzle die from someone around here...maybe DInzag? Not sure.

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Get a barrel nut for it. You can lock it in any position. CSS has them as other places. http://store.carolin...2-BARREL/Detail

 

It doesn't take up any room the way it installs. Maybe just 1/16th of an inch.

 

Got the barrel nut. PROBLEM SOLVED pretty much instantly! I wasn't feeling like going the lock tite route. Although I'm not totally against that idea. Still I like the idea that I can remove this brake and add a new one easily.

Might I suggest option #3... Get the barrel nut AND use lock tite if you're fully committed.

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You've got to look at the muzzle threads carefully. Most of the time they are cut too shallow.

 

A patient man with a triangle file might be able to deepen them up, or you can rent/borrow a muzzle die from someone around here...maybe DInzag? Not sure.

 

The die itself goes for ~$22 on ebay. It probably isn't as good a dies as dinzags, but for simply cleaning up threads it should be more than enough.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Get a barrel nut for it. You can lock it in any position. CSS has them as other places. http://store.carolin...2-BARREL/Detail

 

It doesn't take up any room the way it installs. Maybe just 1/16th of an inch.

 

Got the barrel nut. PROBLEM SOLVED pretty much instantly! I wasn't feeling like going the lock tite route. Although I'm not totally against that idea. Still I like the idea that I can remove this brake and add a new one easily.

Might I suggest option #3... Get the barrel nut AND use lock tite if you're fully committed.

 

 

 

I figured I would come back to post an update on how the barrel nut worked out for me. It turns out that the problem was not completely solved. The barrel nut allowed me to align my muzzle brake properly and easily. However, after a day at the range the muzzle brake and barrel nut loosened up somewhat.

I want to note that I did not use any tools to tighten the brake and nut down. I hand tightened as best I could. Maybe it only holds well when cinched down with a tool. In the end I applied Loctite Thread Locker (BLUE 242) to the muzzle brake.

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