Agent Lemon 157 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 So I threaded (14x1) my barrel and then put a slant brake on it. I secured it in place using a crush washer from CSS. The crush washer is just a little bigger than the threads and therefore it just slips on and off the threads. Today at the range the slant brake unscrewed a couple of turns after some magazines. How do I keep the muzzle device on without changing out the front sight block, without putting any kinds of loctite/glue on the threads? Are crush washers supposed to screw on and off of threads, or just slip on and off? Once I get a press I will simply change out the front sight and then use the pin to keep the brake in place, but I need something to do until then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 just soak the fsb in penetrating oil and pound it off with a mallet and put a new one on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Sounds like you did not have the brake tight enough. I know you want it clocked right, I had to make mine a bit thiner to get the brake right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agent Lemon 157 Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Sounds like you did not have the brake tight enough. I know you want it clocked right, I had to make mine a bit thiner to get the brake right. Exactly. I had a little more space to turn, but I wanted it looking right. Perhaps I will simply slap a birdcage on it for now, msking sure to go all the way. I would still like to know more about the crush washer, though. Is it supposed to screw on and off, or just slip on? I recall reading somewhere that you are supposed to time the muzzle attachement by turning it and the crush washer against eachother. I cant exactly do this if the washer simply goes over the threads. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 a crush washer just slips on, there are muzzle nuts that you turn against the brake, but the only one i've seen is for the s12 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Hammer is right, Try 2 washers if you have the thread lenght. If you have thick washers, file them thinner. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
canoecanoe 63 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 File or sand the crush washer and muzzel brake a little at a time till you get it indexed correctly with a tight fit. A crush washer is designed to "crush" a little. Go ahead and use some loktite. You can still remove it later by heating the loktite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lbsrdi 1,078 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 An easy way to do it is to wrap some fine sandpaper around a small piece of a 2x4 and lightly rub your washer or slantbreak across it to remove material evenly. This works well for me, I just fit a slantbreak with crushwasher yesterday and it is rock solid and indexed correctly. I did have to file a groove in the washer with a small round file to allow the plunger to pass through. I realize you have no plunger but I'm just sharing my experience. GL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 So I threaded (14x1) my barrel and then put a slant brake on it. I secured it in place using a crush washer from CSS. The crush washer is just a little bigger than the threads and therefore it just slips on and off the threads. Today at the range the slant brake unscrewed a couple of turns after some magazines. How do I keep the muzzle device on without changing out the front sight block, without putting any kinds of loctite/glue on the threads? Are crush washers supposed to screw on and off of threads, or just slip on and off? Once I get a press I will simply change out the front sight and then use the pin to keep the brake in place, but I need something to do until then. FYI you do not need a press to change out the front sight base. Take a look at classy's thread that Is stickied in the 5.45 section. Not difficult at all Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Eagle 839 Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Got a clear pic of the set-up? Might work here, but my cousin has had to use 2 crush washers stacked before to get a brake to index on an AR. If you use loctite(I know yoiu said you weren't), get the blue. I's a good bond, but can be broken without heating. I use blue on all my scope rings to keep the band screws from working loose, but can loosen them with a screwdriver and a good twist if need be. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ViperHummel 3 Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 check out CNC warrior. That will have everything you need. I had the same problem and that's what I went with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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