Jump to content

Trigger Pull


Recommended Posts

Get yourself a double hook triger and very slowly cut the notch for the second hook just to the point that the hammer will release. That will give you over travel limit. or get yourself a custom triger from Cobra with an over travel limiter. I can not recomend doing what I did for saftey reasons but I made a small thin plate that is held in place with the forward most screw that secures my CSS triger guard. The plate sits under the hooks and a little bit goes a long way. Also there is a fully adjustable triger available.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I converted mine then I worked a bit of magic to the G2 with my files and a dremel. It's less than four pounds...

I agree. The Tapco G2 is possibly the finest Tapco product on the market and can be reworked to be very light and very impressive.

 

I get lots of .... "Damn! That's light!" comments when people try mine. I shorten mine a bit as well, but always use unmodified factory springs on the hammer and disconnector. Kind of risky if you don't have a good understanding of how the hooks need to function in relation to the disconnector.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep the double hook with a notch and a plate under the other side is the cheapest choice and is fairly good. If you have a welder, you can add metal to the underside of the back, if not a fender washer can do the same thing.

 

RSA adjustable trigger or professional services are other options too.

 

I have done the double hook mod and the RSA. RSA is a bit nicer because it is just a matter of adjustment, and you have adjustment for disconnecter start point and tension that cannot be gained in the other method without spring changing or clipping and adding metal to the disconnector.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I welded a little tit to the front and back of the trigger to limit creep and over travel, worked pretty well. I played with the disconnecter and hammer engagement for a shorter reset, as well as the trigger/hammer engagement to make the brake/reset close together. Then replaced the rolled steel sleeve with a machined brass bushing, which didn't really do much.

 

Its an AK, use a little common sense and ingenuity and you'll be good.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...