COmpleted mods on Saiga 20

[Dozer 4]

So I got enough courage from here to do my own mods on my S20. I want to share them with you in case it may help someone else thinking of doing the mods.

 

First I followed the link below for polishing and round off edges. (thanks to the author)

 

However this shows S12 not S20 and some things are slightly different

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/33836-modification-to-repair-fte-issues-on-saigas-with-blocked-gas-ports/

 

Then when it came time to remove the pins from the gas block this is where things changed from the linked guide above. Here is what I had to do with a S20

 

First the pins are different on the S20. These are the pins you need to remove.

 

Pin one does not need to come out. Pin 2 and pin 3 do need to be removed.

 

I removed these pins with a pin extractor and had luck with pin 3 but pin 2 would not come out. So I put it in a press and pressed the pin out. The pin came out easily.

 

Once the pin was removed I was able to put a piece of 80/20 aluminum strut on the gas block and hit the aluminum strut with a BFH and the gas blocked started moving. I switched side to side evenly hitting the block and it came right off.

 

Heres the grooves on the bottom of an S20 that hold the pins to the barrel

 

I had three holes (gas ports) in the barrel. all different sizes, I enlarged all three holes to 3/32 and added a fourth hole @ 3/32. Using a Brideport end mill and A 3/32 CARBIDE BIT The picture shows the three holes before I added a fourth

 

 

Then I opened the Gas block where the newly added four holes access the gas piston and opened it up with a dremmel tool so all four holes will be exposed to the gas piston and tube. So when you look into the gas block you can clearly see all four PORTS.

 

Then it was time to reassemble and it was not as bad as I read it was going to be. I polished the area where the four ports were with a buffing wheel and alighed it. I then used 80/20 strut longer then the barrel and held the strut right up against the barrel and placed the end of the strut on the gas block. Using a BFH I tapped the block into place by switching from side to the other until the block seated completely into place. worked very smoothly.

 

Then I used a 25 ton Hydraulic press to push the pins on the gas block back into place. That also went smoothly.

 

I also purchased a low brass reliablity kit from CSS and will install that tonight

 

I reassembled the S20 and after work today I am going to wally world to buy some cheap ammo and test this all out. I will report tomorrow on the results.

 

Hope this helps anyone wanting considering doing mods on there own.

[well2160 42]

I just did the porting mod to mine as well but just opened up my three to 3/32 (they were significantly smaller) and didn't add a 4th. Hopefully I don't regret that later on. I was unable to open up the gas block since I have a poly choke permanently installed and couldn't get the gas block off but the three are fairly clear. I've got a MD Booster Puc, V Plug, and reduced lbs recoil spring. I'm hoping the porting does the trick. So far I've had the thing for 8 years and despite polishing every surface, reduced lbs recoil spring, running a substantial amount of ammo through it, converting it (which I didn't expect to improve function), Booster Puc, V Plug it still stovepipes about one out of 5 of the cheap Wally's federal ammo. Now I've ported it and will hopefully be testing it out soon. Dozer, how did yours work out after the mod?

[well2160 42]

Well my porting (3 holes out to 3/32) didn't do the trick completely. I've previously done the polishing, reduced lbs recoil spring, MD Arms Booster puc. Better but with Federal Wally's still stovepipe about 1/5 rounds tossing shell about 2 feet. Better than 2/5 though. Ran 10 slugs that went like a dream with the shell flying about 10 feet with Vplug wide open (tried backing it down but FTE returned). 3" mag buck shot 5 rounds with one FTE (again had to have V plug wide open). 3" mag #4 shot no FTE with V plug wide open.

1. Am I still under gassed and need to put the 4th hole in and if so should it be at 3/32?

2. Any other ideas to get her running reliably?

3. Is it realistic to believe that this will one day run cheap Wally's stuff reliably or do I need to give up that dream?

Thanks for any help.

[magsite20 1,664]

have had a couple of 20s, played with some others: one ran like a dream out of the box, a couple took a little time, polish, puck and spring changes, one took all the above and a 4th hole to get it to run. Good luck and if you're still useing the factory plug have you backed it out a turn to make sure it's not blocking the ports?

[well2160 42]

Hallelujah!!! After 8 years (in all fairness 7 of those the thing got pitifully little attention due to med school and residency) she finally cycles the cheap stuff! It took the following in chronological order: Polish surfaces, Decreased lbs recoil spring from 1911, MD Booster Puc, MD V plug on wide open, opening the three holes present to 3/32, adding a 4th hole 5/64 was all that would fit. Man that was so dang much fun!!! I tried turning the V plug down but it wants it wide open. Happy freaking day! I had almost lost the faith.

[notadrone 5]

They have a way of turning around at the last hour. glad to hear your hard work and patience paid off.

[Dozer 4]

WELL2160 when you say turn the adjustment all the way out? How far are you talking?