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Chop that barrel! They look good, but the one with the break appears to be ready for export to the UK.

Stripped the words right off of my tongue.

 

+1 chop the barrel or lose the brake.... unless you are going for Goose Gun feel and handling. Otherwise, looks like you have them set up as you like, but the question Doctor is.... do they run?

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Chop that barrel! They look good, but the one with the break appears to be ready for export to the UK.

Stripped the words right off of my tongue.

 

+1 chop the barrel or lose the brake.... unless you are going for Goose Gun feel and handling. Otherwise, looks like you have them set up as you like, but the question Doctor is.... do they run?

 

1 out of 2. LOL

likely going to have to increase port size and add a third port to the one thats having issues.

 

We live in IL no such thing as SBS.

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Chop that barrel! They look good, but the one with the break appears to be ready for export to the UK.

Stripped the words right off of my tongue.

 

+1 chop the barrel or lose the brake.... unless you are going for Goose Gun feel and handling. Otherwise, looks like you have them set up as you like, but the question Doctor is.... do they run?

 

1 out of 2. LOL

likely going to have to increase port size and add a third port to the one thats having issues.

 

We live in IL no such thing as SBS.

 

No SBS here in WA either. However, you can have a smith with the right licensing chop the barrel and solder your brake so it adds up to the right length. You would get a more effective brake too, because it would be getting gas before the pressure drops.

 

Fix your ports. You need some tiny punches, a chunk of brass or aluminum to use to drive the block with, and $2 in tiny drill bits. It is worth while and then you will have a gun that just works. The other malarkey is more effort than just getting your gas right. You will probably have some scuffs on the paint of your barrel and gas block to touch up, but what is the point of a pretty gun that only runs some ammo? You spent all that money on cool gear, spend the hour to make it work.

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Will cutting the barrel affect accuracy. I'm a big fan of tagging those steel plates at 50 and 100 Yards.

 

Also velocity... Like the OO at least 1200FPS?

 

Bill

I believe even 3" 12ga rounds have fully burned by about the 14.5" point of a shotgun.

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A neat thing about vectors is that something is going in a vector or it isn't. Longer barrels don't get a projectile more on vector.

 

Target rifles may have long barrels for 3 reasons, none of which really matter for a modern shotgun.

1) Enough length to get the bullet spinning at right RPM.-- No spin in shotguns

2) Enough length to burn powder and achieve desired consistency velocity. (consistency can be achieved by launching well before burn ends, or long after it ends. Right at the burn end is the greatest variation)-- As the Mod above said, not really an issue, and you can buy hotter shells if you want more speed in about any barrel anyway. I believe Tony Rumore did some testing and found that there was almost no difference with any shells over 10 or 12 inches.

3) Weight. It slows your wobbles down and soaks up recoil and barrel flip. I think that Tromix monster of yours has you covered. The leverage may induce a wobble way out there.

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Thanks

 

I measured the Barrel as an IC Choke.

 

Just curious if the same diameter was further down the barrel.

 

Good to know about the powder burn. In CQC a shorter barrel is less of a liability.

 

Bill

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  • 1 month later...

Chop that barrel! They look good, but the one with the break appears to be ready for export to the UK.

Stripped the words right off of my tongue.

 

+1 chop the barrel or lose the brake.... unless you are going for Goose Gun feel and handling. Otherwise, looks like you have them set up as you like, but the question Doctor is.... do they run?

 

1 out of 2. LOL

likely going to have to increase port size and add a third port to the one thats having issues.

 

We live in IL no such thing as SBS.

 

No SBS here in WA either. However, you can have a smith with the right licensing chop the barrel and solder your brake so it adds up to the right length. You would get a more effective brake too, because it would be getting gas before the pressure drops.

 

Fix your ports. You need some tiny punches, a chunk of brass or aluminum to use to drive the block with, and $2 in tiny drill bits. It is worth while and then you will have a gun that just works. The other malarkey is more effort than just getting your gas right. You will probably have some scuffs on the paint of your barrel and gas block to touch up, but what is the point of a pretty gun that only runs some ammo? You spent all that money on cool gear, spend the hour to make it work.

 

Ive seen that with the monster brake. For the $200 you have to give the ATF it may be cheaper just to weld the brake on there and be done with it.

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