hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Ok guys. Im ready to finish the conversion on my x39. But I have one major issue. My rifle went back to Cadiz gunworks for warranty work becuase the FSB was terribly canted. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/59714-hello-folkssaiga-sight-issue/ Tom fixed it mostly(still slightly off but im happy with it) but the only problem is he welded the new one were the dimples are. They must of drilled the dimples, straighted the base and just weleded up the holes. My plan is to just drill the welds gently increasing bit size over and over being careful not to contact the barrell. I do have a drill press so at least I can be steady and even. My question is, does this seem like the best plan of attack. If not what would you recommend? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Bump with churchilism Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Your in for a long haul. with this one. I don't see how your going to do this without either drilling into at least some of the barrel or destroying the gas block. A proper weld in those areas fuses more metal than the original opening, on top of originaly having the dimpled area in the barrels to increase welded surface area. Looked into bolt on handguard retainers? maybe use a chaos rail on the front end? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yoshi 87 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Put in a lathe and turn it down flush with the barrel? That is tough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Or... http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/75066-rebarreled-my-iz132-to-a-russian-mil-spec-barrel/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yoshi 87 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Good call with a big duh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Or... http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/75066-rebarreled-my-iz132-to-a-russian-mil-spec-barrel/ Thanks for the advice I'd just buy another rifle before I swapped the barrels. And solid point nailbomb Well.....anybody got a 14x1die and TAT i could borrow. Haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) Your in for a long haul. with this one. I don't see how your going to do this without either drilling into at least some of the barrel or destroying the gas block. A proper weld in those areas fuses more metal than the original opening, on top of originaly having the dimpled area in the barrels to increase welded surface area. Looked into bolt on handguard retainers? maybe use a chaos rail on the front end? What if I just dremeled away the front sight base along were the welds are(were dimples used to be) using a drum sander instead of a cutoff and keep stopping to whack the fsb until moved free? Eta: destroying the fsb is fine with me and As I can just get a bulgy 74 base from markw1 Edited March 6, 2012 by hutchsaiga Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 No, going in with the attitude that you will be destroying the FSB makes this totally doable. I destroyed mine removing it. Just get another FSB from apex. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 So do you think going at it by drilling the welds as wide as I get without going deep enough to hit the barrell. Then going with a dremel and some patience is the best way from there? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimmy21 18 Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 post some pics of the welds. I would think a cutting disc on a dremmel would be better, but its hard to tell without even knowing what we are talking about Quote Link to post Share on other sites
308SAIGA 55 Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 I saw that, very nice work I hope you get your issue solved. Or... http://forum.saiga-1...il-spec-barrel/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 as requested. dont mind the cut in the base i was in the process of checking for threads when i took the pics. i think i should be able to just drill them out largerand larger without going to deep in to the barrell and press it and GB off with my press Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 (edited) Ok guys not going to lie and say I was easy. Cuz it wasn't. Whole lot of dremeling and I just beat it off. The press wasn't needed. I made one screw up and gouged my barrel pretty good. Its about an 1/8 of the depth of the factory drill spots for the dimples so I think it should be fine. But am taking suggestions from you guys if it shoul be welded up Edited March 10, 2012 by hutchsaiga Quote Link to post Share on other sites
buddharacing-1 2 Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 I would not weld it. too much heat would probably cause the barrel to pull. If your are really concerned perhaps some kind of silver solder would fill it or expoxy. I personally would just leave it alone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 I'de weld it, But thats just me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 (edited) I'm gunna get some more flux and solder it smooth. I'm not worried about integrity of the barrell. It's two fingernails thickness deep. Far less than an 1/8th inch If it wasn't for the welds I wouldn't of had to cut that deep. But it's off now. So be it. Edited March 11, 2012 by hutchsaiga Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 I'de weld it, But thats just me. Damn nailbomb now you've got me worried. Anybody else have input without calling me a dumbass;) ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
markdavidson 28 Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 wouldn't the new FSB and muzzle device will hide almost all of it anyway? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 wouldn't the new FSB and muzzle device will hide almost all of it anyway? Yup it covers it completely. I just doesn't know much about barrell pressures and what not. Especially towards the muzzle. I assume it's less at the muzzle but I'm just looking for other opinions. It's Maybe about a 1/16" deep Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesavery22 54 Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 iwwai (I Wouldn't Worry About It). The cut for the standard 3mm pin is much deeper than that. If you are going to lose sleep over it then braze it with some 1100°F >56% silver solder then file it flush. Then press the new FSB over the now flush barrel(well at least one side would be flush the other would still have dimples). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Ordered all my parts from markw1 here in the for sale threads. Updates with pics soon! Also, does anyone know the best price for a Bulgy 74 bayonet? I found centerfire for $35 shipped. But I feel like I can do better than that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Strawdawg 1 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 iwwai (I Wouldn't Worry About It). The cut for the standard 3mm pin is much deeper than that. If you are going to lose sleep over it then braze it with some 1100°F >56% silver solder then file it flush. Then press the new FSB over the now flush barrel(well at least one side would be flush the other would still have dimples). Awesome point I forgot how deep the pin channels get drilled. Thank you for your help. I'm just going to throw my new FSB right over it Now, Hutch...you could have saved all the wondering by just using some JB Weld! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) Ok got my Parts and made some serious headway today I removed the pin and made a slice in my gasblock(didn't touch the barrell on this one;)) then I whacked it with a chisel till it looked like this Next was putting the handguard on, gettin the placement for the notch, then filing and a little paint Next I got my gas block on as straight as I could. And pounded the pin in the hole that already existed for the old one Then I started working on the brake because I was tired of those damn pins I drilled out the hole just avoid any bullet strikes. Probably not necessary.becuase the whole was larger than 7.62mm, But better safe than sorry I wanted a spent case to fit in the whole that way I knew I would have plenty of clearance Then I put a little never seize where the FSB goes(which I also did for the gasblock) and pounded it on and started to get everything lined up Then i called it a day. I have a 20ton press but didn't use it at all. Just used a 2x4 and heavy brass hammer. My gasblock seems canted quite a bit to me, and I may knock out both pins, reposition, redrill, and repin. But I'm not sure yet. The bolt and carrier still move fine with our binding in the gasblock or tube at all. So I think it's really just ashtetic at this point Edited March 21, 2012 by hutchsaiga Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 It's done! Pics soon My ak74 muzzle brake wobbles quite a bit on the threads on my sight block. Might try to tighten that up some Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 I got a ak74 bayonet from markw1 today. And I have a quick question about these. It's unissued and in perfect condition. But fits very sloppily onto my rifle. It clicks in and retains well but rattles enormously side to side. How much are these things supposed to move?? BTW I was able to tighten up my muzzle brake a lot by filing some material off the back so the plunger would click into the next notch. And its tight enough to be sufficient now I fired it today and my FSB is a little canted but I only drilled one pin so I can straighten and reposition it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hutchsaiga 93 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Bump to top Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Wheres the pics of everything on and together? Looks good so far. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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