twoskinsoneman 72 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Went to the range yesterday and shot 200 rounds of all different kinds of ammo in my recent saiga .223 converted rifle. Late that night I was threading the barrel and had the trigger pin fall out. Now I had been banging on the FSB shroud with a chisel after cutting it with a dremel, but when I put everything back together I noticed why the pin would have come out. The fit is pretty bad. with the pins in and the plate shoved in where it would be effective to hold the pins, the safety hole does not line up. The retaining plate has to move up and rearward (moving the plate further away from the pins and losing a good lock). Anyone else has this problem? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gpqueen 545 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 You may have gotton one out of spec. Email me your name and I will send you another. sales@carolinashooterssupply.com 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 The retaining plate made by Red Star Arms is by far the best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gpqueen 545 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 The retaining plate made by Red Star Arms is by far the best. That is a Red Star arms.You can tell by the cut in it. We tried out a handful of those when we were out of ours and they have all come back for the same reason. We are sending out the one we make for replacemant for that one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 The retaining plate made by Red Star Arms is by far the best. That is a Red Star arms.You can tell by the cut in it. We tried out a handful of those when we were out of ours and they have all come back for the same reason. We are sending out the one we make for replacemant for that one. Interesting. I've never heard or seen of an RSA one being out of spec, but I've seen it many times with the Tapco. On the other hand, I've seen bad QA on RSA's triggers before, so perhaps I shouldn't be surprised. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
netpackrat 566 Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 We had the opposite problem with a CSS plate in my brother's S-12. Had to remove metal from the bottom of it in order to get it to go down far enough to line up with the selector hole. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
markdavidson 28 Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 my CSS one is very tight, It is actually a bit of a paint to get in/out...but that is ok by me, that means it isn't going anywhere Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twoskinsoneman 72 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 We had the opposite problem with a CSS plate in my brother's S-12. Had to remove metal from the bottom of it in order to get it to go down far enough to line up with the selector hole. I would have never even mentioned it if this was the case for me. I got no problem grinding/sanding a little here or there. But I can't add metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
netpackrat 566 Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 We had the opposite problem with a CSS plate in my brother's S-12. Had to remove metal from the bottom of it in order to get it to go down far enough to line up with the selector hole. I would have never even mentioned it if this was the case for me. I got no problem grinding/sanding a little here or there. But I can't add metal. Why would you not have mentioned it? Maybe the next guy will read this and have to spend less time and trouble diagnosing the problem than we did. Removing metal isn't a problem as long as you know where to remove the metal from. Just knowing that it may be necessary can save a lot of frustration when parts don't fit exactly like they are supposed to. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twoskinsoneman 72 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 We had the opposite problem with a CSS plate in my brother's S-12. Had to remove metal from the bottom of it in order to get it to go down far enough to line up with the selector hole. I would have never even mentioned it if this was the case for me. I got no problem grinding/sanding a little here or there. But I can't add metal. Why would you not have mentioned it? Maybe the next guy will read this and have to spend less time and trouble diagnosing the problem than we did. Removing metal isn't a problem as long as you know where to remove the metal from. Just knowing that it may be necessary can save a lot of frustration when parts don't fit exactly like they are supposed to. I guess because I read alot about AKs having a good deal of slight variations in their clearances here and there. I didn't expect to have parts matched perfectly for my particular rifle. If I had to take a slight amount of metal off to get a good fit it wouldn't have bothered me. I had to do it with my pistol grip, bullet guide, and I hear about others having to fit things like gas tubes, FG retainers etc. Not a big deal if a little fitting is need. Only MHO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twoskinsoneman 72 Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Got another retaining plate from CSS. (Thank you for the quick shipping) It didn't fit any better. I installed it anyway. Took it to the range and had to keep pushing the trigger pin back in. I don't blame CSS I suspect the Saiga is just a tad out oft spec. In the end I decided to put the factory original retaining spring back in. Of course there was no place to put it since I had converted from the old trigger style. My answer was to take one of the old rivet pins I saved from the conversion and drill down into it about 1/2". I then tapped it with a 6-32 tap. Then I installed it with the retaining spring and secured the pin with a 6-32 screw. The screw is ugly, I may paint it or order a 6-32 black oxide button head screw later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twoskinsoneman 72 Posted March 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 (edited) Just a last comment. I shot over 200 rounds the other day and the setup with the original retaining spring worked great no pin movement. Man I've GOT to get a better fore grip than the factory. I had to stop shooting for a while because the fore grip was too hot to hold! Edited March 24, 2012 by twoskinsoneman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 I did a mod on my spring retainer to work as I needed after my conversion on my S12. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mogunner 240 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 I just did my conversion with the CSS plate, it was a little tough to get it in there but once I did it fits real tight, have to see how it does after firing it a few times. I think it might be just the slight variances between the Saiga's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twoskinsoneman 72 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 I just did my conversion with the CSS plate, it was a little tough to get it in there but once I did it fits real tight, have to see how it does after firing it a few times. I think it might be just the slight variances between the Saiga's. I think part of the reason is the slot for the rear pin is pretty big cut in a wide square-shape to accommodate slight differences. That's all good except the difference for mine happens to be the were the hole for the safety lines up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
m1911a1-Blackhawk 1 Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 I know im late but i JUST finished my saiga 7.62 conversion and i used the red star retaining plate from ak builder and mines broke. I mean broke at the point where the c looking part that adapts around the hammer axis pin is no more. But i rigged it with a hook clamp from my tool box. Another wasted penny if ya ask me :-( just my ak47¢ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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