crankywanker 7 Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 In this video CSS talks about grinding a portion of the safety lever and It wasn't very clear where I needed to grind it down if I had a problem. Can anyone get me detailed pics of this? Also has anyone had to do this? I will be doing my DIY job this week so I'm trying to get my duckies in a row. Also, What spray paint color/brand can I use?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dayofruin 425 Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 If you're grinding to clear the bolt hold open, it's easier(I think) to notch the bolt hold open itself. Or you can buy a notched one from CSS. It's real easy to do just by looking at the picture on their site. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 Always grind on the easiest to find and least expensive part when there is a clearance issue, if it will solve the problem. 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 In the video He is pointing to where the saftey leaver that hits the FCG to keep the trigger from disengaing the hammer. From what I understand some times the saftey wont let you pull the trigger and let the hammer go. I did not have this issue, Someone will chime in that knows more than Me about this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theturtlepond 31 Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 You might have to grind a chunk off that hits the hammer as RED stated. Do not shorten the safety where it engages the hammer in order the keep it from firing but where it hits the hammer as you try to put it in. I cut about half of the bottom off. I don't believe this is necessary but it does make it easier to put the safety back in. The top one is the modified one. The material was cut to allow it to pass the trigger sear. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crankywanker 7 Posted March 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the pic guys. I bought CSS modified BHO. But I was wondering do I need to do anything else to it? He mentions something about notching it for the spring to be held into place better? I didn't see any cuts/notches on the modified one. Edited March 23, 2012 by crankywanker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 The picture above shows the notch. Look where the spring wire will sit when it is installed. just use a dremel cutting wheel, hack saw, file or whatever to make a groove the spring clicks into. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
truthcult 1 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 I put my gun back together today after converting. I didn't have to grind my BHO or safety lever... Haven't fired yet, but everything seems to work. Did I mess it up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rnemhrd 165 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 (edited) You might have to grind a chunk off that hits the hammer as RED stated. Do not shorten the safety where it engages the hammer in order the keep it from firing but where it hits the hammer as you try to put it in. I cut about half of the bottom off. I don't believe this is necessary but it does make it easier to put the safety back in. The top one is the modified one. The material was cut to allow it to pass the trigger sear. RED and Truth are rightabout what the video's talking about. The safety hits the disconnector causing it to rock the trigger release the hammer when you go to pull out the safety, and you have to pull the trigger to get it back in. If you go to field strip your rifle during a malfunction pull the safety up and it sets the hammer loose and there is a round in it it's a bad thing. Semi auto safetys are trimmed to clear the disconnector. Full auto safetys are not. It's just random what safetys get put in at the factory. They all work in semi autos. The top trimmed pic is what a semi auto safety looks like. I saw all this when I was looking at a shit ton of videos before converting my Saiga. Edited December 21, 2012 by rnemhrd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Just make sure that the safety works, rifle enpty, pull the bolt all the way back. Let the bolt go to battery, set the safety, try and pull the trigger and make sure the hammer does not fall. Now set the safety to fire and pull the trigger the hammer should fall. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Slayer-72 4 Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Just did my conversion and I didnt have to grind anything thankfully. you might not either. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NobamaPlease 0 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 I have converted more than 110 S-12 (w/BHO lever) and never needed to grind/file the safety lever or hammer/trigger until yesterday, just came across my 1st problem when the safety lever would not move over the rear of the trigger to engage the safety. The problem was due to the factory cutout on the receiver for the trigger - the front edge of the receiver cutout was preventing the trigger to rock back/reset, to the set position and the safety lever was too long to engage the trigger. one fix is to shorten the safety lever which is the easiest, what I did was to file the front edge of the receiver cutout until the trigger moved/reset like it was designed to, then the safety lever worked fine without the lever needing to be shorten. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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