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Recommended Paint for Saiga?


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Hi All,

 

I would like to repaint my gas tube and touch-up a few spots on the receiver.

 

1. Is Saiga paint available? If so, from where?

 

2. If not, what paint do you recommend?

 

Many thanks!

Edited by DrDyno
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lots of people on the forum prefer (including me) prefer "Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Low Gloss Black DE1634". It matches very well to the original finish even with a similar texture. It can withstand temps 500degree. You can get it at autozone.

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Pretty much what GregM1 said. It works pretty good if you want to just cover up a spot here and there. I use it for any touchups and for painting below the trigger plate.

 

Although Saiga paint sounds sweet. I'll have to contact my Russian military kit connect in St. Petersburg to see what he has to say about Saiga paint haha.gif

 

"Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Low Gloss Black DE1634". It matches very well to the original finish even with a similar texture.

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Use the stuff GregM1 listed. It is a perfect match and is more solvent resistant than the other options. $7 @ any auto store. Stove paint is close, but needs more frequent touch ups.

 

for what it's worth, the oem paint looks the same but isn't as good. And the russians don't necessarily use the same stuff on the whole gun. about half the parts on my IZ109 were painted with something that instantly dissolves with alcohol, and the other half will leave a smudge on the rag, but not much more.

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I just repainted my entire rifle last week with the Duplicolor and it looks fantastic. The only question is how does it hold up to cleaning with clp, or other solvents. I am not touching it for 2 weeks so the paint can cure, but would like some first hand experience on how this stuff holds up. The saiga paint came off with brake cleaner that was alot easier than I ever could have imagined.

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I have used Chalkboard paint for several guns. It goes on very nicely and once cured seems very durable. It gives a rough finish similar to a parkerized finish except black rather than gray. It is also very easy to touch up.

 

I figure if it can handle the constant abuse from chalk then it should handle most of what I dish out. I have shot my shotgun enough that it is too hot to touch and the paint is no worse for wear.

 

You can find it at Walmart and a can is enough to do quite a few guns.

 

Dolomite

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I used VHT flameproof paint with ceramic on four Saigas. It's rated between 1300-2000 degrees F. When the paint dried, I oven cured the pieces as directed on the can. It's very tough and resistant to the cleaning chemicals I've used on them. The finish color is flat black. I waited a week or so, and CLP lubed them, and they have a slight low gloss finish to them. VHT was around 6-8 bucks a can. I put four coats on each piece.

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lots of people on the forum prefer (including me) prefer "Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Low Gloss Black DE1634". It matches very well to the original finish even with a similar texture. It can withstand temps 500degree. You can get it at autozone.

This is what I used for touch ups after restoration! Works well!

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so how does duplicolor hold up to cleaning?

 

i have had no issues with it once its cured, but i never let solvent sit on the outside of the rifle for to long either. it is a ceramic based paint and is pretty solid once dried.

 

my 7.62x39 and .223 were both easy to match with this paint. both had a semi gloss finish and i only had to paint a few parts to match. my s12 was a higher gloss finish so i had to paint the whole thing to be one finish. the difference was only mildly obvious but i noticed. i have painted all three guns with one can and have over half a can left. plenty for any touch ups in the future.

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lots of people on the forum prefer (including me) prefer "Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Low Gloss Black DE1634". It matches very well to the original finish even with a similar texture. It can withstand temps 500degree. You can get it at autozone.

________________________________

 

Went to my local Autozone, today. The Dupli-Color DE1634 has been replaced on their shelves with a Rust-Oleum of equal spec. Don't know if that's region-wide or company-wide. I have some Rust-Oleum High Heat flat black at home, for painting charcoal grills. I think I'll just give that a try and report back.

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lots of people on the forum prefer (including me) prefer "Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Low Gloss Black DE1634". It matches very well to the original finish even with a similar texture. It can withstand temps 500degree. You can get it at autozone.

________________________________

 

Went to my local Autozone, today. The Dupli-Color DE1634 has been replaced on their shelves with a Rust-Oleum of equal spec. Don't know if that's region-wide or company-wide. I have some Rust-Oleum High Heat flat black at home, for painting charcoal grills. I think I'll just give that a try and report back.

Seek out the Dupli-Color DE1634. There are are a few reports of the rustoleum not holding up as well as the duplicolor.
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I just repainted my entire rifle last week with the Duplicolor and it looks fantastic. The only question is how does it hold up to cleaning with clp, or other solvents. I am not touching it for 2 weeks so the paint can cure, but would like some first hand experience on how this stuff holds up. The saiga paint came off with brake cleaner that was alot easier than I ever could have imagined.

 

I dunno about brake cleaner, but my duplicolor painted one seems to be unharmed by CLP, Rem oil, kleenbore gun oil, and denatured alcohol. Can't say the same for all the factory paint.

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Seek out the Dupli-Color DE1634. There are are a few reports of the rustoleum not holding up as well as the duplicolor.

 

Thanks, Jetmech. Found the Dupli-Color DE1634 on line and ordered it. Will save the Rust-Oleum for its purpose... my grill!

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lots of people on the forum prefer (including me) prefer "Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Low Gloss Black DE1634". It matches very well to the original finish even with a similar texture. It can withstand temps 500degree. You can get it at autozone.

Youll poop your pants when you see how well it matches. I used on the bottom of my receiver and it came out beautiful.

 

You can also use it for a touch up paint. Just get some small, fine bristle paint brushes, spray paint on a board and touch up your dings. When its dry it looks great. Just like any touch up paint, its hard to get that "sprayed on" silky smooth finish, but it does a hell of a job.

 

Plus its way way way more durable than those garbage birchwood casey.gun touch up paint pens

 

Oh yea, I got mine at advanced auto.

Edited by Boomsick42
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I use the same Dupli-color paint on Harley Davidson shovelhead cylinders. If it holds up to them (which it does)it will hold up to damn near anything.....

Thats nice to know. Theres some serious heat coming off those, I cant Ive ever made my gun that hot. I baby her though.
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i used duplicolor ceramic engine semi gloss, and baked it on. it came out great. sandblasted the original arsenal finish first.

 

i use seafoam deep creep to clean my guns, and let it soak inside the muzzle brakes to help with the carbon buildup since my crap state demands they be permanently on. i noticed if you let seafoam soak too long it starts to flake off the paint....damn sad.png well, on the receiver part anyway. the barrel end doesnt.

 

i will refinish with duplicolor again, no doubt. hoping i just got the prep wrong. does anyone use a primer with their duplicolor? would primer help?

Edited by m1lk
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You dont have to bake the Duplicolor. It says just let it sit for 2 weeks, nothing about baking.

I left the painted receiver in my small basement with the furnace on over night, there was warm air blowing on it for like 24 hours and it gets to about 100degrees in the room. After that, I put my pistol grip and trigger guard back on. A few days later I went to the range and also a few days after that.

 

When it was time to give it a good cleaning, I took off the grip and trigger guard, and holy crap, no wear on the paint at all. It says two weeks, but it will be functional on 'cool' parts way before then.

 

I would wait the full time before shooting if I did my barrel though.

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Thanks for the thread. When I bought my gas tube it didn't' match and I painted it this rustolium (yuck) and it has never looked right. Now I have my Beryl stock that doesn't quite match and hoping to have a new FSB/GB soon that won't match either. Good to know what I will need to get! Then I gotta figure out if I want to really keep it black... Hmm.

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