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Front sight assmbly?...


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In THEORY... *YES*

 

In reality... not quite... I was UNABLE to pound out the pins on MY Saiga X39... I actually BENT a couple of drift punches trying... so I gave up and just cut the sleeve off the end CAREFULLY with a dremel before I threaded the end of my barrels...

 

BUT...

 

RUMOR HAS IT...

 

that all you need to do is drift out those two pins, and then press off the FSB...

 

Check THIS link... see if it helps out any...

 

http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/threadinstall.htm

 

OR....

 

http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/fsbcantfix.htm

 

I know there are other links ON HERE but I dont know them offhand... start with those two... go from there... GOOD LUCK! :)

 

 

:smoke:

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...Thanks. Now I am REALLY undecided....The pins on my x39 look like they have been peened over so theoretically, if I ground some metal off, they 'might' drift out...Of course then I would probly need new pins but I guess that would be the best course anyhoo.....

 

Using the Dremel sounds like less hassle tho.....Hmmm, I wonder how a tubing cutter would work?? ...Or, I could start with the tubing cutter & finish up with the Dremel or,......decisions, decisions :rolleyes: .........................

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....How difficult is it to remove the Saiga front sight Assembly??.....Looks like you merely drive out 2 pins & tap it off the barrel.....Is it really that simple???....

 

I was able to drive out the 2 pins. I then used a press to get the FSB off.

So yes it can be that simple.

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I used the gas port cleaning tool that came with my rifle as a punch and drove the pins out with a hammer. They were pretty easy to get out. I knocked off the front sight with a hammer too, but I wasn't planning on reusing it. It was pretty hard. I didn't think it was ever going to come off. I used lots of penetrating oil.

Edited by jtoddellis
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If threading the barrel is your end quest... heres the skinny...

 

Use a dremel and carefully cut around the sleeve as close to the sight block as you can... making small cuts all the way around getting deeper and deeper...

 

every so often when you think you are "getting close" check to see if you are "through"... what I did was take a pair of channellocks and grip the end of the sleeve ( With the gun in a padded vise, mind you.... for all of this work...)

and rotate... GRIP HARD enough to rotate... but not to CRUSH the sleeve... make sure you have sprayed between the barrel and sleeve with penetrating oil, to facilitate its removal... once you have ground enough away, it will work loose and slip off relatively easily... Remember.. if you are threading, a few nicks in the barrel are nothing compared to what you are going to do to it in short order!

 

Then thread properly, NOTE... when threading close to the sight block... thread a little, then check muzzlebreak timing... the WORST is to thread too deep and when the brake is tightened its cocked or upside down...

you want to thread ALMOST to the point its going to be aligned properly, so that you align it true by TIGHTENING... at that point... when its all done, and cleaned up ... degrease the threads... and threadlock... then retighten and align... done...

 

Wile E. Coyote would be PROUD!!!

 

 

:smoke:

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...That steel is "hard-ass'!.....Got 2 1/2 turns with the tubing cutter before the wheel was toast ......At least I have a line to follow with the Dremel ....

 

.....I have the thread adapter from Brownell's but am having second thoughts about using it after reading the other thread....I might have to buy or rent a threading kit.....

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...That steel is "hard-ass'!.....Got 2 1/2 turns with the tubing cutter before the wheel was toast ......At least I have a line to follow with the Dremel ....

 

.....I have the thread adapter from Brownell's but am having second thoughts about using it after reading the other thread....I might have to buy or rent a threading kit.....

 

 

You have to make sure to use a Stainless Steel cutting wheel. I did the same thing Just ground the original wheel into rubble. The SS wheel didnt even flinch.

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You have to make sure to use a Stainless Steel cutting wheel. I did the same thing Just ground the original wheel into rubble. The SS wheel didnt even flinch.

 

..Well, I can't say that I'm surprised but thought it worth a try....As mentioned above, I've cut off gun barrels with a standard wheel in the past but for some strange reason, the sleeve is harder than hell...It might even be case-hardened :rolleyes: .......Just had a 'brain-fart about fabricating a makeshift reamer with a pilot to open up the thread adapter a tad without making it off-center.....Might be just as well to go the threading routine in the long run though....

Now if someone with the proper setup (lathe?)were to open up the threading adapters to the proper diameter :devil: .......

 

..Or, 'brain-fart #2: How about a drill powered unit using a brass pilot that fits inside the Saiga barrel & grinds off the sleeve & reduces the barel diameter in one 'swell-foop'??.......

Edited by Oldwheat
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You have to make sure to use a Stainless Steel cutting wheel. I did the same thing Just ground the original wheel into rubble. The SS wheel didnt even flinch.

 

..Well, I can't say that I'm surprised but thought it worth a try....As mentioned above, I've cut off gun barrels with a standard wheel in the past but for some strange reason, the sleeve is harder than hell...It might even be case-hardened :rolleyes: .......Just had a 'brain-fart about fabricating a makeshift reamer with a pilot to open up the thread adapter a tad without making it off-center.....Might be just as well to go the threading routine in the long run though....

Now if someone with the proper setup (lathe?)were to open up the threading adapters to the proper diameter :devil: .......

 

..Or, 'brain-fart #2: How about a drill powered unit using a brass pilot that fits inside the Saiga barrel & grinds off the sleeve & reduces the barel diameter in one 'swell-foop'??.......

 

Yes if you know someone with a lathe that would be perfect. Like I said in that old post its real close like so close it looks like it should slide on. But after all is said and done its sometimes just easier to tap the barrel and be done with it.

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Yes if you know someone with a lathe that would be perfect. Like I said in that old post its real close like so close it looks like it should slide on. But after all is said and done its sometimes just easier to tap the barrel and be done with it.

 

....Maybe I'll just buy a threading kit & sell it at a discount afterwards. :rolleyes: ......Of course, I do have a couple of adapters, guess I mght as well give reaming them a try, especially if you don't have to remove that much metal........

Edited by Oldwheat
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I will add here *WHERE* to get the threading kits... as well as some nice brakes...

 

These guys are TOP NOTCH for their kits... ( owning one myself... loaned to stokstad, and currently in posession of Cobra ) and I recommend them HIGHLY!!!

 

 

http://dynasystems-ltd.com/threadingkits.htm

 

brakes... same site different page....

 

http://www.dynasystems-ltd.com/muzzlebrakes.htm

 

you CANNOT GO WRONG with these guys...

 

good luck!!!

 

 

:smoke:

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Hey! Somebody bring up my old "how to" post, where I used a dremmel to cut mine off! I took really cool pictures in that one. You can cut most of the way into it, then snap it off with a bearing breaker or pair of vice grips.

 

 

Here you go Piston.................

 

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=3063&st=0

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Sorry to hijack your thread oldwheat, but since I dont want to post on cobras...

 

Cobra... EXCELLENT JOB on the tutorial!!!

 

That is EXCELLENT WORK!!! great photos and very nice step by step!!!

 

TO the rest of you... YEAH... its THAT EASY!!!

 

Oldwheat... If you plan to thread a barrel... Thats your plan, right there! :up:

 

 

Soon as Bvamp gets back, that needs to be STICKIED UP TOP...

 

:smoke:

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..Not a hijack at all IA.....Second the suggestion on the 'sticky'...

 

.....Just had yet another 'BF'....I'll wager that it wouldn't be rocket surgery to fabricate a utility using the thread alignment tool to grind down the small amount of metal in the add-on thread adaptor & keep it straight....Probably would be better to just thread the barrel & have done with it but I'm a cheap-ass :rolleyes: .............................

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