anarhummatov 0 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Gents, is it ok to move a brass brush both ways inside of the barrel by switching the direction? Cuz some people say you should only move the brass brush one way at a time (not change the direction of the brush whilst inside of the barrel? How about the damage that a brass brush can do to chromed saiga barrels? Cuz every second time I shoot my saiga, it develops a sticky powder fouling that can only be removed by a brass brush? Please advise. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anarhummatov 0 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I can't be asked to leave it there. I feel I have to brush the barrel perfectly clean each and every time. So I think I'm using the brass brush more often than I should. What do you guys think? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Garys4598 1,065 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Changing direction of the bore brush while it is still in the bore, is never a recommended procedure. Heck, some truly anal-retentive folks firmly believe when running a brush. . . or a cleaning patch through a rifle's bore, you should always do so from one direction: breech to muzzle. Me, I don't personally prescribe to that, but I would never change directions of a bore brush while the brush is still inside of the barrel. YMMV. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dboberg 25 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Probably some merit to it. I would be interested to hear from some others. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ironhead7544 35 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 If you reverse the direction it is supposed to put marks in the barrel from the ends of the brush hairs. Probably wouldnt hurt hard chrome but I always push it all the way through. I generally run a soaked brush in and out six times. Then let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Clean out until patches come out dry. Then a very light coat of CLP. If you are worried about wear from the brass brush then get some fiber ones. A lot of people only use fiber, might be something to it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kylsix 2 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 It technically wears the barrel faster. I wouldn't start "scrubbing" the barrel, but it's not going to ruin the barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Do not reverse IN the barrel. Other than that you ain't gonna hurt it. A $5,000 target rifle - brush and patch breach to muzzle. Chrome lined battle rifle or shotgun - it makes absolutely no difference. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Is there any evidence or literature about damgae of reversing push to pull, pull to push of a brass brush in the barrel? Hard chrome is HARD, much harder then brass bristles of a bore brush (yea, say that 5 times fast)! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snafu360 21 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 (edited) Lol really? This is a chromed lined AK platform shotgun were talking here.. Not a $15,000 over under... The brass brush isn't going to do shit to it Edited April 5, 2012 by snafu360 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Caspian 32 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) Is there any evidence or literature about damgae of reversing push to pull, pull to push of a brass brush in the barrel? Hard chrome is HARD, much harder then brass bristles of a bore brush (yea, say that 5 times fast)! yes, there is a ton of literature. one off the top of my head is Machinery's Handbook (in it's 29th Edition). In it, you can look up the relative hardness of metals. Wanna guess what is harder, chrome lined steel or brass? Here's an eye opener for those using dangerously "abrasive" copper bullets. Mohs' Scale of Hardness: 0.7 graphite 1.3 asphalt 2.5 fingernail 3.0 copper penny 3.5 brass 5.5-6.0 knife blade 5.5-6.0 plate glass 6.5-7.0 steel file Using the logic that brass is going to "scratch" the barrel, then you are destroying the barrel every time you shoot copper jacketed barrels. Now, granted, you have to apply some common sense. if you hook your brush to a drill, you will probably damage it. even a softer object can damage a harder object if you put enough effort into it (read:water jet cutting steel). Nothing against the OP, but i wish people would apply common sense and some research before believing everything they read on the internet. caspian Edited April 6, 2012 by Caspian 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 The brushes are made of brass or bronze for a reason. It's softer than steel. Chrome lined bores are even harder than steel..... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D.C.MORRISON 494 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 saiga 12 barrel needs cleaning? i'm the closest thing to a D.I. in my household. think i'll just continue to use slugs. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kylsix 2 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 saiga 12 barrel needs cleaning? i'm the closest thing to a D.I. in my household. think i'll just continue to use slugs. I'll clean the barrel every once in a while, but not nearly every time I go out. The only reason you should clean it is because certain chemicals in the powder can create pits and gradually erode the lining of the barrel. Granted, the sun will probably implode before that becomes a legitimate problem, but it technically does cause damage to the barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 I remember seeing a video on the Sig Sauer website in regard to cleaning their pistols. The video said to soak a patch in solvent run it through, then run the brush from end to end. ( He actually ran it from breach to muzzle till it potruded than back through) I do this in all my guns. On rifles however it does cause a bunch of brush splatter to acculate inside the receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 If I notice some gunk in the barrel, I normally get the barrel hot with a twenty round drum full of birdshot, then I run a couple of slugs through the barrel... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 If I notice some gunk in the barrel, I normally get the barrel hot with a twenty round drum full of birdshot, then I run a couple of slugs through the barrel... Sure thats the fun way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Sure glad I don't clean my barrel. I'd hate to take a chance on damaging it. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobRez 1,895 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 With a chrome lined SMOOTH bore you can go whatever way you like!! Have fun! Keep in ming that, as stated, brushing toward the reciever sprays all of the gunk INTO your shotgun. Not desireable for E-Z cleaning. But you won't hut your lil'baby. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Shot 1,287 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Bore Snake & 3M Brake cleaner from Napa. Best gun solvent out there. A light coat of ATF and its good to go. Gun solvents and lubes are a sham. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deadeye 325 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Bore Snake & 3M Brake cleaner from Napa. Best gun solvent out there. A light coat of ATF and its good to go. Gun solvents and lubes are a sham. Bore Snake & 3M Brake cleaner from Napa. Best gun solvent out there. A light coat of ATF and its good to go. Gun solvents and lubes are a sham. dosnt break klean strip the saiga paint a little Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Bore Snake & 3M Brake cleaner from Napa. Best gun solvent out there. A light coat of ATF and its good to go. Gun solvents and lubes are a sham. Bore Snake & 3M Brake cleaner from Napa. Best gun solvent out there. A light coat of ATF and its good to go. Gun solvents and lubes are a sham. dosnt break klean strip the saiga paint a little Yes!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Shot 1,287 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Bore Snake & 3M Brake cleaner from Napa. Best gun solvent out there. A light coat of ATF and its good to go. Gun solvents and lubes are a sham. Bore Snake & 3M Brake cleaner from Napa. Best gun solvent out there. A light coat of ATF and its good to go. Gun solvents and lubes are a sham. dosnt break klean strip the saiga paint a little Yes!!! I'm sure you're right. I just haven't really noticed any issue after four plus years of using it. If it takes a little paint each cleaning eventually I'll have an ecscuse to repaint. Besides I kinda like a battle worn look on all my AK based guns. It does remove carbon deposites and other crud better than anything I know of. I have to agree that if the cheap factory paint is your primary concern, don't use brake cleaner. I don't think it has any more or less effect on paint than Casey gun scrubber or break free solvent. I could be wrong. To the OP for what it's worth storage of a anything metal with no protection against the atmosphere is a bad idea. Metal left unprotcted will Oxideze even in the best of conditions. I can't get this thing to post a photo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Shot 1,287 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Here it is after 10 plus cleanings with 3M brake cleaner. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anarhummatov 0 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Ok. I put some lubrication back on. But only on the most critical components, such as trigger mechanisms, bolt, rails etc. do you think it's sufficient or should I put lube on other metal sections as well? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 I always take a lightly oiled rag and wipe down all exterior/interior metal surfaces. Keep the gas system dry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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