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Wow.  Great thread and thank you.  Perhaps I shall present a different point of view.  Are we guilty here of linear thinking?  All pretty much about gun safes.  Not much at all about the overall problem ... how to secure our cool stuff.  Whatever that expensive stuff may be.

 

A short comment about safes.  Operational and situation security.  I used to lump (move) furniture in San Francisco years ago.  We routinely tarped up large safes and moved them at 2 am very quietly.  No noise at all.  Apartment buildings, commercial accounts and nice homes.

 

The owner paid a $premium$ for the service and time.  As far as we knew, none of the close noisy neighbors knew we were about our business moving stuff.  Also we had stencils and paint to mark over contents labels on big cardboard boxes and re write "large refrigerator freezer".

 

All of this was in 1970, a very long time ago.  Not having your neighbors knowing that you just moved in or out a big nice juicy target gun safe might be a good idea.  Just me.  We moving guys were also bonded, insured and back ground checked.  No known crooks in our crews.

 

Are there other ways to protects valuables?  Oh yeah.  May not be completely legal, but consider the tear gas or pepper spray blasters?  Room deluge spray type dispensers?  How about extremely loud sonic devices?  Flashing pulse diode bright disruptive lighting systems?

 

Hidden multiple independent camera systems?  All of this battery powered?  How much would all of this cost?  How effective would it all be?  Consider the multiple layered independent systems.  How about a very good big trained family DOG!  Anyhow, respectfully just me.

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I didn't like any of the offerings commercially and I am paranoid so here is mine. It is tucked away somewhere in these hills in the backround on my ranch.

I still have room enough inside the safe for those (and the safe came with a sliding jewelry drawer).  What I have actually run out of space for within, is for long guns.

Liberty is good but stay away from the fatboy series. They are paper thin     That's why I filled mine with black powder. It's going to be a very bad day for anyone torching/cutting my safe

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I did some research, seems those 4" flat steel for locking lugs actually seems to hold up better then the bars on similar priced safes. Plus Liberty even at the price point is Made in the USA, not overseas.  I'm hoping to get in and get it on BF.

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>>Are there other ways to protects valuables?  Oh yeah.  May not be completely legal, but consider the tear gas or pepper spray blasters?  Room deluge spray type dispensers?  How about extremely loud sonic devices?  Flashing pulse diode bright disruptive lighting systems?

 

I was thinking that it would be quite easy and fairly inexpensive to monitor and protect a safe in some "exotic" ways.

 

1. Cheap alarm trigger that will send a text to you.

2. Cheap baby monitor camera that has the internet hosting ability.

3. Fake ceiling can light over the safe door that could contain any manner of remote internet trigger-able devices.

4. Enjoy video of bad guy having a really bad day.   011.gif

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Security and safes are different things. ATM's get stolen all the time, they steal a backhoe or Pettibone and just load the damn thing on a truck to work on it elsewhere.

Security has more to do with NOT letting the world know that there is a safe in your place that has contents WORTH the time and effort to steal!

Lights, cameras, dogs, sticker bushes, strobe lights, etc. are also good security. Crooks HATE noise and lights. The LOUDER and BRIGHTER the better!

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I don't have a big safe in my home. With my on-site shop all the tools to open any safe are readily available and being out in the boonies a capable individual could easily do what they want without being disturbed. I keep important stuff in a safe place that I'm not going to disclose. What I keep in my home is a bunch of hard gun cases that are locked and contain pressure treated lumber for weight. My thinking is that a burglar isn't going to waste time cutting the locks there but rather take the whole package to be opened at a safe location. Sure, I'd lose alot of valuables, but the important stuff will be missed.

For those interested there are also 4G trail cams that will send pics or video straight to your smart phone or email. Service is under $100 a year and camera prices vary.

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I bet you don't buy guns from a locksmith, so I'd suggest you don't buy a safe from a gun store. A lot of the companies that sell primarily gun safes are selling you a drywall box covered with sheet metal and a really nice paint job. Often with impressive but fake "bolts" that don't actually do anything. Unless you are buying it primarily as furniture don't pay big bucks for a nice paint job. You want to buy a steel or steel and concrete safe with a UL rated lock and a UL rating of RSC at the very least.

 

I don't sell safes, but I would still suggest you buy your safe from someone who has a factory trained tech on their staff and has sold and serviced commercial safes for at least 10 years. It might be really helpful if they are reasonably local as it is really difficult to ship the 1000+ pound safe you bolted to your slab somewhere when the lock breaks with all your guns inside.

 

For vicinity $2000 I'd look at the amsec BF6032, though I'd probably spend the extra money to get a bigger safe.

 

Ratings:

 

An RSC rating means it can keep one guy out for 5 minutes who has a hammer and a screwdriver. If it can't do that why are you buying it? If you are trying to keep your guns safe from your preteen kids there are cheaper ways to do that.

 

A TL rating means the safe is a far more serious obstacle. No crackhead or tweaker is going to open a TL rated safe. Though they might force YOU to open it for them, that's why you carry in the house. They also cost a lot unless you can buy a used safe. Which is something you should look into, as a used safe is typically just fine. For example, a used GSA class 5 container is much tougher than a commercial RSC (class 5 has a "forced entry" rating in minutes on the data plate.) A used commercial TL15 or TL30 is also going to be vastly more secure then you can get from a new safe for the same money. However, have any used safe inspected and combo changed by someone who knows what they are doing before you put anything in it.

Hello, KevinNM

 

Largely due to the informative post you made here, I started scouring Craigslist and found a second-hand (but un-used) AMSEC BF6636 with a Group 1 tumbler added, along with black nickel hardware for $2000.00. It was purchased new by a pharmaceutical company but they were moving, and the only thing they had placed in the safe was the paperwork. It had never been bolted down. 1319 lbs. of serious security, and one handsome safe.

The safe moving crew that I used (who sell Grundhoffer (SP?) safes) told me that I better not lose the combination, with that Group 1 tumbler on it a specialized safe guy would need to be found to get into it.

My country place will now be armed.

 

Thanks for the help, Sir!

 

-Guido in TX

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Good, now HIDE that safe in the country place so it does not become a beacon for theives! If they know where a safe is that looks like $$$$, they will bring a big 4x4 truck and a chain and drag it out! A 1,300# safe bolted to a brick wall is no match for a ton 4x4 and a 1/2" chain. Put it behind a false wall.

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Good, now HIDE that safe in the country place so it does not become a beacon for theives! If they know where a safe is that looks like $$$$, they will bring a big 4x4 truck and a chain and drag it out! A 1,300# safe bolted to a brick wall is no match for a ton 4x4 and a 1/2" chain. Put it behind a false wall.

Hello, G.O.B.

 

Ditto that, Sir.

 

I was noting while surfing the AMSEC site that they market a magnetic vinyl or some such material cover that makes your safe appear to be a cabinet that you might store spray paint or canned peaches or whatever in.

Don't know how you would camo the pull handle on the door.

I like the "hide in plain sight" concept.

 

-Guido in TX

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Hello

 

For those who have never researched, AMSEC (American Security) builds their "BF" model safes with two layers of 1/4" -1/2" steel in the back, top, and sides. The space between the two plates is filled with steel reinforced Gunite (castable concrete) which makes the sections 4" to 6" thick. That makes the safes extremely heavy, but also makes them very difficult to penetrate, since one would have to get through steel, then steel-reinforced concrete, then more steel.

Worth investigating.......

 

-Guido in TX

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Surprise Locksmith Services has experienced staff to offer you advice on securing you home and we stock a large selection of security hardware. Get residential and commercial locksmith service at affordable rates.

Fuckin spammer.

 

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