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So i posted along time ago i was new well i finally have my s-12 on the way should be here friday or so. I am going to do the conversion but i need to know if i should go ahead and order CSS low brass reliablity kit or just order a new puck and gas plug. I am also going to order CSS #8 conversion kit. I am also curious how well the AR-15 grip adapters hold up over time. I have been lurking and reading for a long time. Thanks for any info you can share.

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Why would you order a low brass reliability kit when you don't even have the gun yet? You might not need it. First thing you need to do is wait until you get your gun and test fire it, then worry about the conversion.

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The low brass reliability kit really only cures a symptom not the disease, if you do end up having issues cycling low brass there is a proper way to deal with it. Some guns run great right out of the box, hopefully this is what you get. Test fire it first and see how it cycles, you should do this before any conversion work.

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+1

Im running all stock parts and have no problem cycling wally world bulk pack on setting 1. It fte d when it was brand new, but thats about it.

 

The low brass reliability kit really only cures a symptom not the disease, if you do end up having issues cycling low brass there is a proper way to deal with it. Some guns run great right out of the box, hopefully this is what you get. Test fire it first and see how it cycles, you should do this before any conversion work.

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I like the magpul grip, and don't really like the saw. Either is fine though, that is all up to preference. About anything is better than a classic AK pg grip though.

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Definitely the Hogue grip. Don't make changes until you have put some shells through it! Its always better to get a base line. Then make one change at a time. You may not even need a reliability kit. If you aren't getting the results you want, their are other things to look at first (like the gas block and ports.)

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That might be solved by googling.

 

The double either needs modified or you have to modify the gun to fit it because it will hit the receiver. however, search for "Over travel g2" and you will see one real advantages. Shorter trigger movement in both directions with proper fitting.

 

Since I just posted the picture for another guy:

 

post-17871-0-46567300-1334961893_thumb.jpg

 

Again, no need to cut the second hook, and you can control the pre-travel with a well placed fender washer from your trigger guard.

 

 

 

 

Single Hook can drop in without modification, except to the hammmer.

Edited by GunFun
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Well she finally came in today looks like she was made november 2011 it looks to have two gas ports should it have three? I also ordered my conversion kit from CSS today hopefully ill have her converted soon.

 

It should have 3 or 4. Check closer with a bent piece of wire.

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I got the CSS kit but my DPH Plug will not turn without depressing the detente which is NOT what its designed for. The plug itself works ok but its dangerous and kind of bitch to change the settings that way. I would try the Auto plug, Im going to. I do NOT recommend the DPH plug for that reason.

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Well had the first range session today she shot some low brass on setting 2 with only FTE being at the end of the mag. She wouldnt even cycle shooting from the hip but ill deal more with that after the convert overall i am more than happy since she looks to be about a 2 3/4 port gun haha.

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So I got my Saiga 12 NIB awhile back. From the get go I was meet with disappointment. As fate would have it I think I ended up with a "vodka special". Of course it would not cycle any low brass walmart ammo, but also failed to cycle normal factory 2 3/4 00 buck on either setting. The only rounds I have gotten to perform were slugs. After fighting off the urge to cut my losses I order the parts kit and converted my Saiga. After a succsessful conversion and a new auto-plug I headed to the range. Still I had FTE almost every round. On top of that some of the rounds were being caught on the feed ramp and getting shaved, completly failing to chamber. I have inspected my gas ports, I have 3 of them, they are open but I do not know the exact size. The only step I know of is to dis-assemble the weapon and drill out the ports, but thats easier said then done. Am I missing something? I am open suggestions. Please help me fix my FTE problems for fear that I sell my Saiga...

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It is really not that hard to do the port mod. Do a search on gas block removal and drill the ports out to 3/32... Also look into polishing the bolt n carrier and the slide rails and fcg if you have done a conversion and after you do that go shoot it and you should see a significant difference. If you are still having issues after that look into a booster or performance puck. Dont give up on it yet...

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Read the stickies before you start. Among other things, you need to keep the 30* angle. Also it sounds like you may want to do the "D-mod" or drill the hole in the gas block up to the next size while you have it off to clear the ports if they are in fact obstructed.

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I checked last night and it seems only one of my ports are completely open. The other two only go half way :( idk how I missed that. I am assuming that the 30 angle has the ports slanting towards the muzzle to prevent possible problems from the shot getting caught up in them.

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So I drilled out my ports today. They were way smaller than 3/32. It was pretty easy though. The bit follows the old hole for the most part. Getting my gas block off was a pain in the ass... Any secret tips for putting it back on? BTW I decided not to do the "D" mod. The pattern on the barrel showed all 3 were un-obscured.

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