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I just thought I would share these pictures for helping further identify factory threads.

 

This muzzle looked like it had a rounded edge and a thread around the rim...

 

IMG_7245.jpg

 

So I took a chance with the dremel cutting wheel and found beautiful filthy crusty threads! I needed to use a chisel to break the band free from the epoxy.

 

IMG_7253.jpg

 

With some wire brushing they cleaned up ready for a new muzzle brake.

 

IMG_7255.jpg

 

 

Question: What type of muzzle brake will fit on these factory threads? I was considering an old school slant style brake maybe but I don't know much about them?... Any recommendations? beer.gif

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Any brake or flash hider threaded for 14x1mm LH, (the traditional 7.62x39 barrel threading), will work.

 

As you have already determined, the slant brake is pretty much crap. There are a number of newer, more effective muzzle devices made for that threading, though. If you want an effective flash hider, and not a muzzle brake, I recommend the Phoenix. It's pretty cheap but also very effective, which is a rare combination, unfortunately.

 

If you want a brake, there are a number of good options, (e.g. the J-Tac PWS). The one specific piece of advice I'll give you on these is to not buy a 14x1 LH threaded Tapco "AK74" muzzle brake, as those are just fishing weights, and differ significantly from the authentic design, (which does work well). If you want to use a proper 74-type brake on a 7.62x39 rifle, you really need to have a 24x1.5 RH threaded FSB in place.

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I will see how long this stays on using a crush washer and red thread loctite. With this flash hider I could mindlessly torque down tight without worrying of alignment issues that a detent pin takes care of. I also wanted something that did not add length on the tip of the muzzle. I like it and it looks like it belongs there...beer.gif

 

1.jpg

 

3.jpg

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^ Pretty cool, Drinking Beer!

 

That's the first Saiga I've seen in a long time that looks like it could be a battlefield pick-up. Nice work. 032.gif

 

I appreciate the compliments apocalyptic, thanks. I originally had second thoughts about transforming my brand new clean rifle into an old battled look...but it turned out looking good, now I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks it looks cool haha.beer.gif

 

Certainly a few cold beers helps take the edge off when your looking over your rifle deciding if you really should just sand a few years of paint off it. But I had 6 cold friends edging me on 018.gif

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One of these days I'll get bored, or brave, whichever applies, and cut the shroud on my 2011 dated one.

 

My only advice would be to use a tubing cutter to make it easier if your worried about cutting into the barrel. Using the dremel cutting wheel required a very steady hand and it was difficult to evenly cut the depth around the barrel diameter while sparks are flying into your beer.

 

You will see though when you finally have reached the proper depth before contacting the barrel. In the shinny metal cut being made around the shroud, you will very slightly see the darker material of the barrel in the cutting crack. Its only a fraction of material to remove at that point and any deeper you will cut the threads or barrel. I think it would have been much easier to do with a tubing cutter because the cut would be at an even depth plus you don't need to worry about keeping such a steady hand.

 

If your muzzle is rounded around the shroud you should get lucky crusty threads. Here are some more pictures of the muzzle to reference on. Sometimes its not so obvious without magnification. Yet if you look inside with a flashlight it will become obvious enough.

 

IMG_7242.jpg

 

IMG_7241.jpg

 

IMG_7246.jpg

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I am completley new to the platform and have not developed the keen eye that many of you have, so i ask....... Do you think my saiga may have the potential of a threaded barrel?

 

Based on your pics...NO!

 

That is not the end all be all answer but....if I was a betting man....I would put a bunch of money down that it is not threaded.

Looks like mine and all other pics I have seen on this forum that pic screams not threaded. All other pics I have seen have looked like the OP's pics when they were threaded.

Edited by Bigtwin
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Drinking Beer, First of all your rifle looks great!!! Looks like it came straight out of a wooden crate in Russia. You mentioned that it is dated 2009, is it a Saiga? Looks older because it has alot of worn metal edges. Is this something you did or is it just the quality of the photo?

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how far back do you cut?

 

I recommend just cutting no farther back on the shroud/sleeve than the length of the threads on your brake/hider. The distance I cut off was about half way on the shroud.

 

You could cut the entire length of the shroud to the tip of the front sight block but you might run into some fitting problems since the 7.62 Saiga rifles have a longer distance from the muzzle tip to the front sight block than most AK variants. In that case, some flash hiders will be seated to far back and the muzzle will extend under the hiders ports. Or some brakes might not screw all the way down and become blocked by the elongated muzzle threads so you will need to grind the diameter of the threads on the muzzles tip.. Example

 

Drinking Beer, First of all your rifle looks great!!! Looks like it came straight out of a wooden crate in Russia. You mentioned that it is dated 2009, is it a Saiga? Looks older because it has alot of worn metal edges. Is this something you did or is it just the quality of the photo?

 

Haha thanks for the compliments, I was trying for the "straight out of a wooden crate in Russia" look. Yes I assure this is an original 09' Saiga. The worn metal was done by me to give it a battled appearance and the wood furniture is used mil-surplus from Romania.

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how far back do you cut?

 

I recommend just cutting no farther back on the shroud/sleeve than the length of the threads on your brake/hider. The distance I cut off was about half way on the shroud.

 

You could cut the entire length of the shroud to the tip of the front sight block but you might run into some fitting problems since the 7.62 Saiga rifles have a longer distance from the muzzle tip to the front sight block than most AK variants. In that case, some flash hiders will be seated to far back and the muzzle will extend under the hiders ports. Or some brakes might not screw all the way down and become blocked by the elongated muzzle threads so you will need to grind the diameter of the threads on the muzzles tip.. Example

 

Drinking Beer, First of all your rifle looks great!!! Looks like it came straight out of a wooden crate in Russia. You mentioned that it is dated 2009, is it a Saiga? Looks older because it has alot of worn metal edges. Is this something you did or is it just the quality of the photo?

 

Haha thanks for the compliments, I was trying for the "straight out of a wooden crate in Russia" look. Yes I assure this is an original 09' Saiga. The worn metal was done by me to give it a battled appearance and the wood furniture is used mil-surplus from Romania.

 

 

thanks, good info

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  • 1 month later...

Circumcised the 7.62x39 tonight and despite being a 2/09 manufacture, having a feed ramp, not expanding cases, having cuts for LFHG in the barrel there were no threads. Sure looked there would be, there was slightly larger gap under the shroud - but no.

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Circumcised the 7.62x39 tonight and despite being a 2/09 manufacture, having a feed ramp, not expanding cases, having cuts for LFHG in the barrel there were no threads. Sure looked there would be, there was slightly larger gap under the shroud - but no.

24818BP~The-Simpsons-Nelson-Haha-Posters.jpg

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