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Just to update:   Sent it to Glock and just got it back yesterday. Only about a two week turnaround. No charge for a new extractor, and full inspection. Pretty damn good service from Glock I must sa

Spoke with Glock, they said send it to them and they would replace the extractor free. They will also do a thorough inspection and send it back free.   Can't beat that service. Looking at new forged

While ignoring the lead part of the whole thing with reloads a very little change in the charge in some powders (like Clays) can result in wow-wee moments in shooting.   I’d put this one on the re

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Glock 40....the Hoodie's weapon of choice.

My G22 is still working fine, and I aint no "Hoodie"haha.gif

Well "Redneck hoddie" if there is such a thing.

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Intersting post from elsewhere, although I still think it fired out of battery. :)

 

Supposedly a major cause of firearm Kabooms! this "common knowledge" is actually a myth. A myth that has caused many a pistolero to shun this extremely cheap source of practice ammunition, ignorantly (albeit just cautionarily) wasting a lot of money on jacketed ammunition for practice use. Note that for carry or self-defense purposes a JHP that reliably feeds and fires in one's gun should be used unless one has special requirements like armor piercing for well protected targets or frangibles to reduce risk of over penetration.

This myth most likely started after a number of people destroyed their glocks after shooting a round that produced excessive pressure. The theory was that the lead built up too quickly in polygonally rifled barrels and was in effect obstructing the path of the fired bullet. Although it is true that lead does build up faster than jacketed ammunition (in both conventional land and groove and polygonally rifled barrels) thoroughly cleaning the barrel every 100 rounds is enough to keep shooting lead in polygonally rifled barrels safe. Another method is to fire one jacketed bullet for every 10-15 rounds of lead to remove the build up. With this method, one can safely fire 200 rounds of lead in between bore cleanings and still keep pressures within safe levels.

After a shooting session with lead, clean up using Ed's Red or some Hoppes #9 to get all the gunk out. Lead ammunition is a bit more dirty compared to jacketed rounds as aside from powder and primer residue, there is the matter of lead and lubricant residue to take care off. Pay attention to these details and you will be rewarded with the most economical ammunition money can buy. And since lead is softer than copper, with proper care your barrel will last longer than if you exclusively used jacketed ammunition.

This information is the result of personal tests on a HK USP 45 F which, like the glock, has a polygonally rifled barrel.

Update February 24, 2002 - While lead is ok just as long as you don't forget to shoot that fmj every 10 rounds or so copper plated lead is evil. I tried just a mag of those and ended up scraping metal fouling out of my barrel with a screwdriver. Of course i got stupid and forgot to do the fmj every so many rounds of lead.

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That looks like he knowsa and admits that lead is a problem in Glocks, but thinks he can cheat a bit by running a jacketed through every so often.

 

It's truly amazing how many people are smarter than the designers of these fine firearms we all enjoy.

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well it doesnt matter whether you have an unsupported chamber or not. if you reload and the brass fails, you will have a kaboom. i find it amusing that many people justify their purchase of other guns other than glocks for this reason. and i have met several. .40 cal glocks have an unsupported chamber for feeding reliability as ive read. but when someone goes against the suggested shooting practice, why wonder what happened?

 

to me its a matter of what the fuck. why reload and wonder why the kaboom happened?

 

its a simple concept of doing a google search and doesnt take long for someone to find any gun make that has had a kaboom. no guns are kaboom proof. even revolvers.

kabooms are the product of neglect of the brass on reloaders and people who like to take chances. and then in turn like to blame the gun rather than their own choices.

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That looks like he knowsa and admits that lead is a problem in Glocks, but thinks he can cheat a bit by running a jacketed through every so often.

 

It's truly amazing how many people are smarter than the designers of these fine firearms we all enjoy.

 

I've heard the complete opposite of that guy's theory. He says to run a jacketed round to douche the barrel of lead buildup. But there's conflicting advice that I've read many times that says all that does is compound the lead into the rifling even more.

 

I understand the similar theory about running a few rounds of 5.56/.223 in an AR upper that you've been using a .22 conversion in. To douche out the gunk in the gas system with the higher pressure of the 5.56/.223. But blowing gunk through a smooth tube by way of pressure and gas is a different that thinking you can "clean" lead out of polygynal rifling by firing a jacketed round.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to update:

 

Sent it to Glock and just got it back yesterday. Only about a two week turnaround. No charge for a new extractor, and full inspection. Pretty damn good service from Glock I must say.

 

Now I have a new barrel, and I'm ready to try her out again....

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Where you trying out some new primers? Magnum by chance?

 

Over-used brass typically will crack at the neck, not back at the base where the brass is the thickest and doesn't ever get resized. The neck gets stretched when fired, stretched further before the projectile is loaded, and crimped against the projectile. That's a lot of forming.

 

It could have fired out of battery, but IMO that would have required the brass to have been bulged from the previous shot. That's why it's dangerous to pick up range brass. You have no idea why the guy before you left it there.

 

I've seen a guy leave bulged brass behind because he knew they were way too hot and he didn't feel like pulling them all apart. He used his standard recipie but pressed in magnum primers. His brass bulged but didn't split.

 

So I'd say either you had bulged brass to start, or you created an overpressure round.

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I use a Lee Loadmaster, which uses the disc. It's pretty hard to over charge a round, but not impossible. I spot check by weight to make sure it is consistent with powder charge.

 

I did not use magnum primers.

 

Most people that I show the brass to, think it was bad brass, since it came apart down at the base ring. I will never know for sure, but I bought an aftermarket barrel to be safe.

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Well went home last night to put the new barrel in, and factory ammo will not feed.

 

The barrel drops right in. When I cycle the slide, the first round jams diagonally, leaving vertical scratches on the brass.

 

The factory barrel feeds properly. Can't figure out where the ammo is catching.

 

So after I had to send the damn Glock in, now I have to send the barrel back to Lone Wolf.

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I have a lone wolf for my G22, a bit longer, threaded and I put on a brake.

The Lone Wolf barrel works just fine. How about a pic of the jamb, full mag, 1 shell in the mag and jamb?

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I'll take some pics of the barrel tonight.

 

Funny thing is, last night I tried all three mags, and three diff kinds of ammo. And they all cycled by hand. It still leaves scratches on the brass, but it cycles.

 

I'm going to mark the brass and see where the scratches are coming from.

 

I'm a big fan of Glock, but you are right, this new pistol is wearing me out.

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