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IndyArms

chop, crown, and re-thread a Saiga barrel with NO lathe...

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I wanted it to be stickied in both the S12 section AND the tech section.... to do that I had to make a link for one of them... so it is here... the original thread is moved to tech section, and stickied there as well 032.gif

 

http://forum.saiga-1...-with-no-lathe/

 

Thanks to

evlblkwpnz

 

 

for an EXCELLENT tutorial and write up!!!

 

 

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Indy,

I don't know what to say bro except that I am honored. I hope it serves the community well and inspires some guys out there to do their own.

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Any idea when the 8" write up will be? I can't wait!

Look under my post count and note that I have a "warning point". I'm already skating on thin ice here. I'm not sure what the reaction from the business community would be if I do the tutorial on the 8" SBS, so I have decided to leave it alone. Many of them pay their membership fees here and pay their bills with those 8" builds. I like reading the forums and posting here, so I try to not cross any lines that affect people's money. That is what got me in trouble to begin with....

 

beaten.gif Live and learn.... learn and burn

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I believe that an 8" SBS is beyond the skill set of MOST people. Posting a tutorial here would probably cause more harm than good . Better to post it in a home gun smithing forum, where the average subscriber would have a better chance of success.

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I believe that an 8" SBS is beyond the skill set of MOST people. Posting a tutorial here would probably cause more harm than good . Better to post it in a home gun smithing forum, where the average subscriber would have a better chance of success.

+1

It might cause a rise in the number of hacked up S12s, for sure. I know pros that can't do it. It isn't easy.

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Just curious why you remove the threads near the crown. Why can't you do the half inch of threads and call it a day. Thank you in advance

That is how the factory muzzle is and the idea was to chop and replicate the factory muzzle.

 

It keeps the threads clean with the threads recessed. It also aids in alignment with properly designed muzzle devices. Threading at the very end would increase the possibility of thread damage. There are legitimate reasons for the way it was done from the factory. If it didn't matter, trust me, the Russians would not waste time on it.

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I want to thank Evl for this tutorial.  Last year my state repealed its ban on SBS so I have several projects in process.  One is a 12" S-12.  I've tweaked the gas ports to get it running reliably and am now in the process of dressing up the rest of the gun.  One task was the threading of the now shorter barrel.  Once I got by a bit of an issue (explained below) the process when smoothly and I have a threaded section that will accept my attachments.  So thanks again Evl.

 

S12%20Barrel%20Thread%204_zps4jrwvafx.jp

 

One heads up for anyone attempting this.  Not sure if this has been covered before but I thought I would toss it out.  When I started threading it was not going well.  As soon as the die would start to cut threads it would break off and quit cutting the thread.  I did this multiple times and was starting to get a bit frustrated as I've cut threads on pipe and rods in other situations many times over the years and not had that problem.   Then I discovered the problem.  I was using one of the thread alignment tools with the die to keep it centered with the bore as you started the cutting the process.  The problem was that the bore was not centered relative to the outside diameter of the barrel.   The wall on one side was much thicker than 180 degrees to the other side.  The alignment tool was causing the die to cut deep on the thick side and then let go on the other side because the wall was much thinner.  Luckily I hadn't gotten too far into the barrel when I discovered this.  I ditched the alignment tool and just carefully worked the die on the barrel.  The threading when smoothly from there.  I just did as Evl suggested and made sure I cleaned up the chips and added cutting oil frequently.

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The process of ~'turning' the shoulder onto the bore with a file, etc. was your chance to get it concentric to your bore.

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I ditched the alignment tool and just carefully worked the die on the barrel.  The threading when smoothly from there.

That is the wrong answer. The threads are concentric to the outside of the barrel, not the bore. It may not be an issue for installing a flash hider, but you can never install a choke or a suppressor on those threads.

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I ditched the alignment tool and just carefully worked the die on the barrel.  The threading when smoothly from there.

That is the wrong answer. The threads are concentric to the outside of the barrel, not the bore. It may not be an issue for installing a flash hider, but you can never install a choke or a suppressor on those threads.

 

Agreed

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