Jump to content

Recommended Posts

does anyone know if i can get a navy lower with selector and just take the parts from my standard lower and put them in? i found used navy lowers with a selector for $30, i don't want to pay $90 for a complete one if i can avoid it, also is there supposed to be something that centers the cocking tube in the front sight block? mine is off center and it dosn't seem to affect function but it's a cosmetic issue that annoys me

 

this is a hesse with mostly hk parts from what i can tell, and before you all hate on me i paid $400 so i figured i can take a chance, finish is shit and some welds need smoothed out but other than that nobody took a grinder to the bolt and it feeds reliably

Link to post
Share on other sites

When you say lower do you mean the grip frame? If so any SEF grip frame will take any SEF, SF, 0-1-30,0-1-20, FCG. ( the steel box that slides into the frame that contains the trigger, hammer and sear). The selector switch for the polymer grip frame is longer than the selector for the steel grip frame and both function the same. You cannot use the previous FCG in a ambi or burst grip frame. (the ones with the bullet pictograms). The FCG will fit inside the ambi frame but will not be able to be used because the FCG for a pictogram frame is internally different as is the selector. Your cocking tube is off center because the folks that made your gun are clueless. I will guess that is not all that is wrong with it. Many a bad ju-ju about Hesse HK guns. Have you fired it yet?

Edited by U.S Praetorian
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

i have not fired it yet, the cocking tub is off center because there is nothing holding it centered in the front sight block, i took a look at some bayonet adapters and it looks like they have a tube that goes in the cocking tube, i think that's my problem. by lower i do mean grip frame, i'm not familiar with the terminology of these guns yet, the one i have is an SEF and the navy ones i think are also SEF so that should work, most of the problems i've heard about with hesse guns seem to be feed related problems and grinding on the bolt face, mine feeds fine and the bolt face is fine, i'm not going to try to pass it off as a great gun but for $400 i will take my chances

Link to post
Share on other sites

The front site is referred to as the triple frame and it is not connected to the cocking tube in any way. It is supposed to be centered in the 3 frame but free floating. A dust cap or bayo cap fits in the end but is only a cap You need to check a couple things before you shoot it. The bolt gap should be between 0.25 -0.50mm. That is the gap between the rear of the bolt head and the front of the bolt carrier. To check, cock the gun, release the bolt and release the trigger. Too much or too little gap will cause malfunctions. If there is evidence the bolt has been ground it would be best to discard that because it has been ruined. The grinding will be on the rear of the bolt head. They did that to obtain a proper bolt gap because the barrel was not pressed properly into the trunnion. This is not the way to obtain a proper bolt gap. Pics would be good. Is the receiver stamped steel of aluminium?

Edited by U.S Praetorian
Link to post
Share on other sites

there is no evidence of grinding anywhere on the bolt and the receiver is stamped steel. what do you mean by release the bolt and then release the trigger? just let the bolt fly and dry fire it? i didn't even know they made receivers from aluminum, but this one is definitely steel

 

also, would there be any problem with putting a shim or something on the end of the cocking tube to center it, as far as i can tell it's just a cosmetic issue that bothers me and i don't see how it could affect function

Edited by Russian Hammer
Link to post
Share on other sites

... just let the bolt fly and dry fire it? i didn't even know they made receivers from aluminum, but this one is definitely steel

 

also, would there be any problem with putting a shim or something on the end of the cocking tube to center it, as far as i can tell it's just a cosmetic issue that bothers me and i don't see how it could affect function

Yes, just let the bolt fly and dry fire. FAC and hesse did have some aluminium receivers that are total crap. The parts are good, the receiver is what is garbage. Yes, you can shim the CT because it is a cosmetic issue, just poor construction and as mentioned your grip frame if a factory pushpin frame will need to be altered to fit the shelf mentioned. This is referred to "clipped" "clipped and pinned means the former and a faux pushpin epoxied in the front pin hole.

Link to post
Share on other sites

i see what you are talking about with the pushpin grip frames, also, i noticed some guns have a paddle mag release as well as the button, is it possible to modify the receiver to accept a paddle mag release?

Yes it is but you must remove the shelf to expose the pushpin hole and then you will have to weld the shelf back on.

Edited by U.S Praetorian
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...