redbaron 5 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 I'm attempting to thread the barrel on my 762 saiga. I've looked at a couple of how to videos and everything but none of them talk about this. I can only get the threading die to remove aout 1/8 inch of material from the barrel. I can't get it to start cutting threads no matter how much pressure I put on the handles as I turn. I've checked all the likely culprits...lettering on the die is facing the work, the tat is not in contact with the barrel at all, in fact I've probably got a 1/4 inch of clearance there. I'm using a light machine oil as cutting fluid, so maybe that's too thick or something? Anybody have any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 7.62 NATO or 7.62 x 39? The NATO barrel is a bit thicker, you might have to thin it down a bit. Sandpaper and time will help. Do you know how thick your barrel is? What thread pitch are you trying to use? I did my S308(7.62 NATO) and it was tough to start but did and came out great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redbaron 5 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Sorry, it's 762x39. I haven't measured, I'll try that next Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redbaron 5 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Barrel o.d. Is .565. I think that's the right diameter for the die Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 What die thread pitch and size? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geepelton 105 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 You do know it is left hand thread right? so your turning it the opposite way of normal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redbaron 5 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 (edited) The standard 14lh. And yes, I'm turning it counterclockwise. Although that would be the kind of mistake I would make Edited June 9, 2012 by redbaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redbaron 5 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Here's some pics if that helps All the farther it will go...it's no longer taking any metal off now Inside the die...not sure if this could be damaged or what Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smartbomb 133 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 (edited) try flipping the die. the cutting threads look flared on the end you have up in the image. i think it will gradually take metal off Edited June 9, 2012 by smartbomb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redbaron 5 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 So, I should try using it with the lettering facing away from the work? I just want to make sure that's what you're suggesting, because everybody else says to have the lettering facing the way you cut Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redbaron 5 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Well, I'll be damned. That worked. I guess mine accidentally had the lettering etched on the wrong side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Well, I'll be damned. That worked. I guess mine accidentally had the lettering etched on the wrong side. Lettering side means nothing on dies. or any other tool. Different manufacturers use various marking techniques. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2ndAmendican 23 Posted June 10, 2012 Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 Another tip is to open the die up with the set screw, to the widest it will go and still fit in the die stock. Make your first cut like that, then make several more cuts closing the die up a little bit each time until your muzzle device with thread smoothly on. Also undercut the base of the threads with a round jewelers file or a dremel if you're brave. Look at the threads on a standard AK barrel for comparison, and you'll see what I'm talking about. This allows the muzzle brake to seat properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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