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I just brought home my second S12. There are a few suttle differences in it and my old one and I thought that it might make for an interesting topic...

 

The first thing I did when I got it home was to remove that god-aweful plastic thread protector. I still had the old steel one from the '08 , so I put it on. Much better. Next, I removed the gas knob and checked the ports. There are three, unobstructed. Unlike my '08, these are not centered but I can't see any cant in the gas block, so I don't anticipate any problems. The markings are nearly identical and aside of the obvious differences such as the serial number and date of manufacture, the only real difference is on the '08 it reads "12x76" and the '11 reads "12/76". The fit, finish and feel are very similar between the two. I also tried one of my older mags in the new gun and found that the magwell on the '11 is smaller ( front to back) than the '08. Not an issue, but noticable.

 

Beyond these items, I can't really find anything that concerns me. I oiled it up and began the break-in. I added a Chinese sling and I may put a DPH gas knob on it. Otherwise, my only real plans for the new S12 is just to shoot the hell out of it!

 

Here is the new '11 model next to the '08.

post-17248-0-23666400-1339705452.jpg

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Out of curiosity, if you don't mind to check your '08 vs your '11, check and see if your '08 gas block has an extra "tab" that sticks out around the handguard screw hole. Then see if your '11 has one as well. My '11 doesn't have the tab, but some of the older threads I've seen some on some guns. I'm wondering if this is a consistent change or if somehow I managed to get a weird gas block.

  • post-25974-040692200%201283118185_thumb.jpg

Edit: This is the tab I'm talking about (the raised area around the hole).

Edited by FOURBUX
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I don't have a '11 S-12, but my current '08 and another I've owned both have the raised area for the handguard screw, FOURBUX.

 

Good to know. I think this lack of material is causing some of my problems from this other thread. (creates the "gap" between the rail and the GB)

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I don't have a '11 S-12, but my current '08 and another I've owned both have the raised area for the handguard screw, FOURBUX.

 

Good to know. I think this lack of material is causing some of my problems from this other thread. (creates the "gap" between the rail and the GB)

 

That sounds likely. S-12s have enough recoil that if your handguard doesn't fit pretty damned securely, it will shift under recoil.

 

I had this issue with an early Kross tri-rail. There was just nothing that could keep that securely in place on my gun, not with that early design. I will mention that Kross helped me try to get it working properly throughout, and ultimately gave me a full refund when it couldn't be done. 032.gif

 

Anyway, good luck FOURBUX.

Edited by post-apocalyptic
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Mine's a "12" and it has 4 ports. One I could see, the two on the left and right I could barely see. The 4th I would have never known was there without probing around with a dental pick. It's in the center front in line with the one I could see at center rear.

 

post-41803-0-37279500-1339711616.jpg

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'11 models are the best. I've got the barrel hood extension retrofit nailed now, but it sure is nice to just open the box and pull out an '11 model that already has it wink.png

 

Do you tig it onto the barrel? Does the barrel have to be removed to perform this?

 

Personally I have more fits with the extractor slot & star crimped low brass than a high feed.

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Mine's a "12" and it has 4 ports. One I could see, the two on the left and right I could barely see. The 4th I would have never known was there without probing around with a dental pick. It's in the center front in line with the one I could see at center rear.

 

post-41803-0-37279500-1339711616.jpg

 

I just found a fourth hole. I took a little extra care with the pick and like you, I found one I would have otherwise missed.

 

Also, the safety stop that is an intergral part of the trigger plate is different on the '11 vs. the '08. The old one was a slant-cut that matched the angle of the safety lever. The new one is formed into a "c" shape. And call me crazy, but the new (cantilever) trigger feels lighter and smoother than the old one did. The old one felt cheap as though it was an afterthought but the new one feels more substancial.

 

And one more interesting find.... There were roughly 20,200 S12's produced between my two serial numbers! That's a lot of shotguns!!

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I have to agree with all of your findings, DarkHorse and Evl. That is why I insisted on buying an S12 with the serial number H11XXXXXX. It too had four clear ports. However mine came with a metal (old style) barrel thread protector. It was imported through Rockledge, FL and has the evil reciever side rail. I think (not positive) the book was stamped inspected at the factory in November of 2011. It has run like a top straight out of the box! I disassembled, cleaned, and lubed for first time after its first 300 rounds. It had some hiccups (fail to fully eject) with Walmart Federal Bulk 2 3/4" only when loaded in a brand new MD drum. That ammo and that drum ran like a scaulded dog after I "cooked the rounds" (get hot to the touch) in the sun for a few minutes to slightly increas the pressure of the rounds. My Saiga 12 has chewed through box after box since then! I am quite pleased. I would be happy to report back if you would like to compare guns or have questions. Now, I just need to find another six or seven hundred dollars to complete my planned build...

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Another observation...

And this is based purely on memory, but my '08 didn't have the bright, shiny gas chamber that my '11 has. Both were virgins, only test fired at the factory, both have similar "powder burns" on the pucks. But the '11 looks like it might have been honed after the fact. Not sure what to make of it, it could be something new or out could be a correction.

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'11 models are the best. I've got the barrel hood extension retrofit nailed now, but it sure is nice to just open the box and pull out an '11 model that already has it wink.png

 

Do you tig it onto the barrel? Does the barrel have to be removed to perform this?

 

Personally I have more fits with the extractor slot & star crimped low brass than a high feed.

Just add a little material. It is much easier to do with the barrel out. Leaving the barrel in takes about 3x as long to make it look factory. However, pulling the barrel is somewhat risky. It can be a pain to get it back in and indexed properly. I am pretty meticulous and calculated, and didn't get it on the first try.

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