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Unclejake,

See post # 21 above for the range report. The trigger isn't great, but it is not that bad. I had the same concerns as you. The way I look at it is this is a fun gun for 100 yrds and in. For that purpose the trigger is fine. If I want to reach out further than that, I have plenty of other options. I hope you build a rifle on this platform. It is alot of fun, and you won't see too many around, at least not anytime soon.

 

Final pic of the finished product:

 

P1000909.jpg

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sounds good

I haven't measured it since threading and adding the flash hider, and I am out of town until tomorrow. Based on the the original OAL before threading of 27", my guess would be right at 29" with the flash hider installed. I can give you an exact measurement when I get home tomorrow evening.

 

sounds good, get me that measurement when you get a chance.

thanks spacehog

 

Villain,

 

I confirmed that it is 29" on the nose from the end of the butt stock extension to the end of the flash hider.

 

10-4 thanks hog

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Well I thought I was done with this project until AZG had to suggest a pretty good idea! big_smile.gif

 

Believe it or not, but the cut out in the Kushnapup actually makes the BHO easier to manipulate than on the stock or coverted Saiga. I tend not to use it as much on my Saiga rifles anyway, only on the S12. But your idea of extending it, and maybe welding on a flat 90 to push against with your finger, is a terrific idea that will only improve the function. The only issue I would have to work around is getting it through the opening of the Kush stock. It is a pretty tight fit as it sits now. (i.e. you have to depress the BHO as you are installing the back part of the stock. I will take a look and see what modification can be done.

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The side rails are just the run of the mill Magpul 7 slot rails. Got em off amazon for $6 each. They don't match up with the factory holes on the Kushnapup, so I used the first hole and drilled the second. There is plenty of room along the inner sides of the stock so you can go with any rails you would like.

 

I will likely be replacing the Magpuls with aluminum low profile rails. The magpuls have too high of a profile for me, but they will do the job for the moment.

 

What part of middle TN are you in? I was in Manchester for 13 years and went to MTSU in Murfreesboro.

 

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I'm just outside the Boro, near 840.

I wish I'd seen this thread earlier, would have loved to see your Pup. I have the Saiga and the Kushnapup, I think they will go together because my 1999 S12 will not cooperate.

I also have the Arsenal SLR106 pistol, and hope to get my .223 to take Bulgarian circle 10 and Beryl mags like the SLR does. Will let you know if your interested.

Which thread size did you go with? Any hints on removing FSB?

Looking at the K'pup stock now, those holes are 2" apart and look like they are set up to hold hex nuts on the inside. Maybe one of the future accessories?

Thanks for the write up.

Edited by Mr.BlahX3
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My wife's parents are still up in Manchester so we come up fairly often. I love the range at Viola...six bucks to shoot as much as you want out to 200 yards. Unfortunately no shotties or rapid fire though. Didn't use to be like that seven years ago when I lived up there. I guess the farm owner got tired of picking up hulls. I'll shoot you a PM the next time I come up.

 

Let me know what you come up with on the mags. I don't particularly care for the galil types I am using now. I am thinking of doing a conversion to AR mags strictly for continuity in my collection.

 

When removing the FSB, start with drilling out the dimples on each side with a bit slightly larger than the press dimples. Go slow, and you will feel a pop when you break through. From there if you are lucky you can heat up the FSB and twist it off with a pair of vicegrips. I made the mistake of thinking I could make a vertical cut along the bottom of the FSB and spread it. Bad move. You won't feel when you cut through and will likely get into the barrel which I did, and the thing still won't move with the dimples in place.

 

I threaded 14x1 LH. I would have preferred 1/2 x 24 for a standard AR thread, but you will have to turn down the barrel slightly before threading. I did not have the tools or confidence for this, but if you do, you have a lot more options for muzzle devices. The flash hider on mine really doesn't do much other than improving cosmetics. If you decide to thread 14x1LH, shoot me a pm and I can let you borrow the die set I bought for the project. I will probably end up selling them on the forum anyway.

 

I measured out the holes on the Kpup as well and came to the same conclusion as you. Bjorn will probably be offering rails at some point on his site. However rails are pretty easily to modify with a drill and dremel so you can use whatever you like.

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Thanks for the offer on the die, not sure when I'll get the FSB off.

I guess that I'll need to be sure this is the gun for the 'Pup first.

I'm using an SGM Tactical shotgun recoil pad for a "tang spacer" I don't want to cut that off.

Edited by Mr.BlahX3
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  • 8 months later...

Spacehog - I'm doing a similar build to yours, only for the Saiga 308. BTW - your/this thread has been very helpful.

 

Could/would you be able/willing to take some more photos to post?

 

Specifically, I'd like to see how you modified/cut the Saiga sporting stock and then attached it to the rifle tangs. And possibly how you had to modified the Kushnapup stock to fit. I, like you, do not want to saw off the tangs and prefer to leave them in place.

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Cutting the stock Saiga butt stock is fairly easy if you have a chop saw. That it what I used. I cut it 1" back from the end. I think I have one cut so you can see what it looks like before it's installed. I will see if I can get a picture of it and post it up for you.

 

As far as fitting the stock to your gun, the S308 is going to be different than the S223. The best thing I did after a while of trying to figure out where the stock was making contact, was to take some chalk line marking powder and dust the inside of the Kpup with it. Once I pulled it back off, I could see where I needed to remove some material from the stock with a dremel. It takes some time, but just take it slow and you will get a perfect fit.

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  • 1 year later...

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