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Finally done!! (almost)

molyresin od green

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#1 TIMTIMTIM

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 08:08 PM

Started a thread a couple weeks back with a teaser pic with some moly resin. So here is the final results!!

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Did the inside with stainless steel moly resin. Makes it a little easier putting the damn thing back together.
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trigger group back together



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S12 with my bushmaster AR. Went with matching PG's because they had American flag patterns on them so before all of AR haters step in kiss my ass!!!Posted Image Posted Image

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Little better close up of the color.

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So here is the list for the S12:
sandblasted with 70 grit aluminum oxide
spray with OD green, Stainless and flat black moly resin using airbrush
CSS puck
MD arms adjustble gas knob
raptor stock (CSS)
tapco trigger
welded on full size monster brake
polished and profiled carrier by C&S metal werks
P.O.S. handguard soon to be replaced with bonesteel or chaos tri-rail
ace ar grip adapter
Strike industries PG

Thanks to the forum for all of there great info!!!
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#2 TheDarkHorse

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 08:14 PM

Great job making something new and different!! Nice for a change...
In the grand scheme of things, does it really matter?

#3 YOT

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 09:43 PM

You put moly resin on the internals? That might slow things down, like molasses. Looks good, though.
  • evlblkwpnz likes this

"It isn't always being fast or even accurate that counts, it's being willing. I found out early that most men regardless of cause or need aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger and I won't." - The Shootist (John Wayne)

 

"You have enemies?  Good!  That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life" - Winston Churchill

 


#4 TIMTIMTIM

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 05:37 AM

The moly resin is thin enough to where it shouodnt cause any problems I didn't put it on anything except the rails on the inside of the gun.

#5 YOT

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:20 AM

If your gun won't cycle, look at the rails first and any other contact points where you put the resin. In the picture it looks like you coated the bolt guide block in front of the hammer, too.
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"It isn't always being fast or even accurate that counts, it's being willing. I found out early that most men regardless of cause or need aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger and I won't." - The Shootist (John Wayne)

 

"You have enemies?  Good!  That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life" - Winston Churchill

 


#6 YOT

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 08:57 PM

Any range report?

"It isn't always being fast or even accurate that counts, it's being willing. I found out early that most men regardless of cause or need aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger and I won't." - The Shootist (John Wayne)

 

"You have enemies?  Good!  That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life" - Winston Churchill

 


#7 evlblkwpnz

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 09:23 PM

I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber.
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Prodigy....

 

 

 

 


#8 TIMTIMTIM

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 04:28 PM

Haven't had a chance to hit the range yet. Work and school have been in the way. Going to try and go Monday. I'm not super worried about the paint being on the rails and such. One of the the main reasons I went with moly resin was because it is supposed to be thin enough and hold lubricant on moving parts without any issues.
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#9 TacticoolTim

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 09:30 AM

I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber.


Uh oh. I just coated my 12 inside and out with pickup bed liner, figuring it would then be as tough as a pickup bed. You think I may have a few cycling issues?
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Tacticool Tim, the Elite couch commando. Founder and CEO of SOLEMN. (Society Of Lethal Elite Mall Ninjas)

Saiga 12/Saiga 223/Saiga 308/AKA 7.62x39 and several off brand weapons as well.

#10 YOT

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 12:51 PM


I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber.


Uh oh. I just coated my 12 inside and out with pickup bed liner, figuring it would then be as tough as a pickup bed. You think I may have a few cycling issues?


BWAHAHAHA..... Have fun with that! (I know better.)
  • TacticoolTim likes this

"It isn't always being fast or even accurate that counts, it's being willing. I found out early that most men regardless of cause or need aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger and I won't." - The Shootist (John Wayne)

 

"You have enemies?  Good!  That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life" - Winston Churchill

 


#11 evlblkwpnz

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 05:30 PM


I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber.


Uh oh. I just coated my 12 inside and out with pickup bed liner, figuring it would then be as tough as a pickup bed. You think I may have a few cycling issues?

Bedliner materials are a different bird altogether. Incidentally, all commercially available bedliner formulas have a built in super slick lubricant (KY2) that will bleed from the finish as the part becomes warmer than 85 degrees and when friction is created by two surfaces rubbing against one another. Bedliner is GTG and it has been found that the lubricating properties increase with the thickness at which it is applied. For superior results on firearm applications, a hot dipping process that is done with the firearm fully assembled is recommended. The fully assembled hot dip process must be done 4 times, allowing to reach room temperature between each dip, and before attempting to move any parts. Any premature moving of parts will reduce the lubricating properties of the KY2. The finish will appear to be very thick, but this is actually due to material expansion that is a result of the high temp dip process. Between 24 and 48 hours after the last dip, the finish will contract and become .0000001" thick.
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Prodigy....

 

 

 

 


#12 TIMTIMTIM

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Posted 24 July 2012 - 02:02 PM

Range report: shot 15 slugs, 2 ftes due to the gas being completely shut. Shot 15 Winchester super X 1 ftf due to stupid surefire mag.
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#13 Ronin38

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Posted 24 July 2012 - 04:51 PM

Nice! Posted Image

My Saiga and my Mustang are both "Finally Done! (Almost)!" Constantly! Posted Image

Edited by Ronin38, 24 July 2012 - 04:51 PM.

"Well, if you've been watchin, you know what 'gas-operated' means. If you haven't, well... that just tough ain't it?"

-R. Lee Ermey


#14 YOT

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 09:58 PM

Range report: shot 15 slugs, 2 ftes due to the gas being completely shut. Shot 15 Winchester super X 1 ftf due to stupid surefire mag.


How's it do with cheap stuff, 100 packs from walmart? Looking for follow-ups here......

"It isn't always being fast or even accurate that counts, it's being willing. I found out early that most men regardless of cause or need aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger and I won't." - The Shootist (John Wayne)

 

"You have enemies?  Good!  That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life" - Winston Churchill

 


#15 AtlSaiga

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 09:20 AM


I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber.


Uh oh. I just coated my 12 inside and out with pickup bed liner, figuring it would then be as tough as a pickup bed. You think I may have a few cycling issues?


there's nothing more durable than fully coating the inside of your barrel with bed liner. make sure you double coat the bolt, carrier and spring too.
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