TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Started a thread a couple weeks back with a teaser pic with some moly resin. So here is the final results!! Did the inside with stainless steel moly resin. Makes it a little easier putting the damn thing back together. trigger group back together S12 with my bushmaster AR. Went with matching PG's because they had American flag patterns on them so before all of AR haters step in kiss my ass!!! Little better close up of the color. So here is the list for the S12: sandblasted with 70 grit aluminum oxide spray with OD green, Stainless and flat black moly resin using airbrush CSS puck MD arms adjustble gas knob raptor stock (CSS) tapco trigger welded on full size monster brake polished and profiled carrier by C&S metal werks P.O.S. handguard soon to be replaced with bonesteel or chaos tri-rail ace ar grip adapter Strike industries PG Thanks to the forum for all of there great info!!! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheDarkHorse 216 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Great job making something new and different!! Nice for a change... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 You put moly resin on the internals? That might slow things down, like molasses. Looks good, though. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 The moly resin is thin enough to where it shouodnt cause any problems I didn't put it on anything except the rails on the inside of the gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 If your gun won't cycle, look at the rails first and any other contact points where you put the resin. In the picture it looks like you coated the bolt guide block in front of the hammer, too. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Any range report? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Haven't had a chance to hit the range yet. Work and school have been in the way. Going to try and go Monday. I'm not super worried about the paint being on the rails and such. One of the the main reasons I went with moly resin was because it is supposed to be thin enough and hold lubricant on moving parts without any issues. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber. Uh oh. I just coated my 12 inside and out with pickup bed liner, figuring it would then be as tough as a pickup bed. You think I may have a few cycling issues? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber. Uh oh. I just coated my 12 inside and out with pickup bed liner, figuring it would then be as tough as a pickup bed. You think I may have a few cycling issues? BWAHAHAHA..... Have fun with that! (I know better.) 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber. Uh oh. I just coated my 12 inside and out with pickup bed liner, figuring it would then be as tough as a pickup bed. You think I may have a few cycling issues? Bedliner materials are a different bird altogether. Incidentally, all commercially available bedliner formulas have a built in super slick lubricant (KY2) that will bleed from the finish as the part becomes warmer than 85 degrees and when friction is created by two surfaces rubbing against one another. Bedliner is GTG and it has been found that the lubricating properties increase with the thickness at which it is applied. For superior results on firearm applications, a hot dipping process that is done with the firearm fully assembled is recommended. The fully assembled hot dip process must be done 4 times, allowing to reach room temperature between each dip, and before attempting to move any parts. Any premature moving of parts will reduce the lubricating properties of the KY2. The finish will appear to be very thick, but this is actually due to material expansion that is a result of the high temp dip process. Between 24 and 48 hours after the last dip, the finish will contract and become .0000001" thick. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 Range report: shot 15 slugs, 2 ftes due to the gas being completely shut. Shot 15 Winchester super X 1 ftf due to stupid surefire mag. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ronin38 2,117 Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 (edited) Nice! My Saiga and my Mustang are both "Finally Done! (Almost)!" Constantly! Edited July 24, 2012 by Ronin38 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 Range report: shot 15 slugs, 2 ftes due to the gas being completely shut. Shot 15 Winchester super X 1 ftf due to stupid surefire mag. How's it do with cheap stuff, 100 packs from walmart? Looking for follow-ups here...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtlSaiga 25 Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 I have experience with this. Some asshat decided he would go the extra mile duracoating a fiend's Saiga 12. He got it everywhere, even in the chamber. Take the finish off of the rails and make sure it isn't on the surfaces that make contact with the lugs on the bolt. In a nutshell, remove it from any friction surface, including the inside of the barrel hood or chamber. Uh oh. I just coated my 12 inside and out with pickup bed liner, figuring it would then be as tough as a pickup bed. You think I may have a few cycling issues? there's nothing more durable than fully coating the inside of your barrel with bed liner. make sure you double coat the bolt, carrier and spring too. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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