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JT ENGINEERING COMPETITION BRAKE


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I just bought the JT Brake and three of the sides of this brake have the open vented holes and one side is solid. Im unsure whether the solid side should face up or down or it doesnt matter. I cannot get the closed portion to line up after its tightened. Any suggestions?

post-41636-0-59384400-1342492573.jpg

Edited by BOB A. BOOEY
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I reckon the solid side should be down, give the pressure something to push down on and keep the muzzle climb down. What do you mean when you said can't get it to line after it's tightened?

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Closed side goes down. Gas out the bottom would at least partially negate it's effectiveness. Looks like you have enough meat at the back to carefully machine/file it until it lines up if it goes against an FSB. They also make crush washer to help line brakes up. Failing that, you can always drill and pin it in the correct location.

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Closed side goes down. Gas out the bottom would at least partially negate it's effectiveness. Looks like you have enough meat at the back to carefully machine/file it until it lines up if it goes against an FSB. They also make crush washer to help line brakes up. Failing that, you can always drill and pin it in the correct location.

 

Crush washer? I ordered the barrel nut that CSS offers is that what youre referring to? It lines up tightened with the solid side up. If I cannot get it to line up its going back. Drilling and pinning aint gonna happen for me.

 

I reckon the solid side should be down, give the pressure something to push down on and keep the muzzle climb down. What do you mean when you said can't get it to line after it's tightened?

 

 

Yes it lines up with the solid portion facing up and a little to the left looking down the barrel

Edited by BOB A. BOOEY
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Umm, that lock nut is to be tightened against the back side of the brake once you have the brake threaded on as far as it will go, whille ending up clocked in the right position. Meaning, thread the lock nut on all the way (bottomed out), then thread brake on as far as it will go against the lock nut. Back the brake off until it is clocked correctly and thread the lock nut forward to jam the brake in place. Might take a little trial and error to get it to line up right. Also, you can put some teflon thread tape on the threads to make the mount a little more solid, or use some red lock tight instead of the lock nut.

 

Sending it back because of user error, lack of know how or improper installation, would be (dont take offense), retarded.

Edited by Mullet Man
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Umm, that lock nut is to be tightened against the back side of the brake once you have the brake threaded on as far as it will go, whille ending up clocked in the right position. Meaning, thread the lock nut on all the way (bottomed out), then thread brake on as far as it will go against the lock nut. Back the brake off until it is clocked correctly and thread the lock nut forward to jam the brake in place. Might take a little trial and error to get it to line up right. Also, you can put some teflon thread tape on the threads to make the mount a little more solid, or use some red lock tight instead of the lock nut.

 

Sending it back because of user error, lack of know how or improper installation, would be (dont take offense), retarded.

 

No youre right which I was I hoping to hear. I ordered the lock nut so I definitely see what youre saying .Thanks.

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Same brake that I run. I've enjoyed it, thus far. Looks good (IMO) and serves a purpose. As for your issue, MulletMan has it covered. I used a barrel nut to get the indexing where I wanted it, or close, and then used blue loctite on the final fitting just to make sure it didnt' go anywhere.

 

 

Locktite on the nut or the brake or both?

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I did the brake. I set the nut where the brake would bottom out on it decently, but not as tight as so that I couldn't get it off. Then I took the brake off, loctited it and put it back on. This way the nut was a reference of where the brake should be close to stopping while being indexed. Once I got back to this point when installing the brake, I double checked it and made sure everything was center and where I wanted it and tweaked it a hair this way or that way. Then I let the loctite dry and tightened up the nut to the brake. You shouldn't need the loctite if you have a nut, but I just knew I'd never take it off and wanted to make sure it stayed on. Different strokes for different folks.

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If you use red loc-tite, you should have no use for the lock nut. The brake should be rock solid and damn near permanent with red loc-tite. It (lock nut) would only serve as an eye sore at that point, IMO. With no lock nut you will also be able to get a couple more turns onto the threads as well, fo a more secure hold.

Edited by Mullet Man
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Same brake that I run. I've enjoyed it, thus far. Looks good (IMO) and serves a purpose. As for your issue, MulletMan has it covered. I used a barrel nut to get the indexing where I wanted it, or close, and then used blue loctite on the final fitting just to make sure it didnt' go anywhere.

 

 

Locktite on the nut or the brake or both?

 

I'd say put it on the barrel threads before hand and get 'em all

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