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I'm wondering this, myself. As my rifle is still with (waiting in a long line) the gunsmith for it's "failure to eject" issues. I've read that this (on 223's) is usually an issue of a sloppy fitting bolt, allowing the bolt to shift to the side, just enough to not leave enough of the the ejector (223 has a VERY small base) to throw the case (that would also explain why the my ejector leaves a deep cut in the SIDE of the rim base). I'm preparing for the smith to tell me that's the case. Hope not... but if so... I, too, will be searching high and low for a new (properly sized) bolt!

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http://www.midwayusa...6-223-remington

 

Out of stock till 8/14 but I think it should work.

Always get a second opinion.

 

It may just not be in the picture... but that does not appear to have a spring loaded firing pin, as found in modern Saiga 223's. Nothing against free floated ones, but I'd not put one in MY Saiga 223 (many 223's are commercial sporting rounds, with soft primers. I'd prefer the reassurance of a springer in there, as my stock one is).

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SLR-106 bolt won't work. It's an AKM-spec bolt, so it will not clear the Saiga .223 locking lugs, nor will it fit into the Saiga carrier due to tail width differences.

 

Obviously finding a spare Saiga .223 bolt is preferable, BUT... If you have a 5.45 bolt handy, you can use it in the Saiga .223. Just have it checked for correct headspace on a 5.56 gauge. The .223/5.56 case rim is a bit loose in the 5.45 bolt, but it's not an issue. The extractor on a 5.45 bolt is huge.

 

I used to think this was BS, until I learned that it was how many builders used to do custom .223 AK builds on AK-74 kits, when only virgin barrels were available. I pulled out a 5.45 bolt, checked that headspace was OK (amazingly, it was), and ran it. It works fine. Just keep in mind that the 5.45 bolt is NOT spring-loaded and so may be chancy with soft-primered commercial .223.

 

There is also a possibility that we may start seeing surplus Beryl bolts come into the US. This is another possible source for spares. I just don't know for sure if they are AK-74 spec, which they need to be. I believe they are as the Tantal was based off of AK-74 blueprints, so it would make sense for the Beryl bolt to be of an AK-74 design.

Edited by mancat
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Thanks for all the info.. I checked with K-Var and they are on back order with no estimated date of release.

 

The reason I wanted a new bolt was b/c I ordered a 100 rd. drum and the instruction said "If the bolt leaves skid marks on the dummy rounds (made into) the mag, remove 1/32 of a inch off the corner of the lower part of the bolt (even had a picture), to eliminate the problem and "DO NOT REMOVE" to much."

 

I thought to myself, "What dumb ass would remove to much". 5 minutes later I found him.scorn.gif Since then I've removed every mirror in my house.

 

After everyones great advise I opted to go to a machinist and have him TIG weld the corner of the bolt corner and then PROPERLY remove the correct amount of metal on the corner. Hopefully I eliminated any head space problem with a new bolt.

 

I want to thank everyone for their response.

 

Kawadave

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I think what you were being told to do is chamfer the leading edge of the bottom lug of the bolt - this is a bit different than removing material. Chamfering is simply dulling/rounding a sharp edge without removing material. This is not at all uncommon to do on a bolt, and I have done it to two AK bolts including my .233 bolt, which had an extremely sharp edge on the lower lug when compared to other AK bolts I have. Chamfering this edge eliminates the "bite" streaks left on the casings, and lessens the chance of the bolt accidentally moving the next round down in the mag when feeding the top round.

 

Never ever ever do this with a dremel, only a small amount at a time with a jewler's flat file. The edge should still be well-defined but not SHARP.

 

Poor choice of words by the manual writer.

Edited by mancat
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