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EDC Knife - What do you look for, carry, and why?


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If you are into that sort of thing. . . or interested in trying it, here's a website that offers "kits" for assembly for folders and fixed blades: http://www.knifekits.../vcom/index.php   About two

Yeah, but my neighbors complain when I use my pistol to open a letter. It does work well for putting the bills into the 3ring binder.     Different knives for specific work. That was my list for t

My carry knife is a $15 Walmart Gerber. I'm not much of a knife guy.   My favorite knife, is this skinner that my Dad made for me back in 1997. He's far from a "pro" knife maker, but he cobbled up

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For my EDC Knife, I want it to be good at being a knife. I also want it to be comfortable to carry. Third, it has to be a knife I can use without worrying about harming the knife. For some situations I want a knife that will not cause problems with other people. I really am not looking at my knife as a weapon, but a knife that you can get at quickly and hold well will be as good as any "tactical" knife for that purpose. For me this is really the last consideration. Looks take a distant back seat too.

 

So for a knife to be good at being a knife it needs to:

  • Have steel that is good enough to take an edge
  • Have steel that is good enough to hold an edge
  • Have an edge and grind suitable to the specific or general task I have in mind.

- For me that means distal or profile taper matters.

- A keen Straight edge is preferred for most things Sharp > Serations 90% of the time

- if I want serrations, I want serrations, not some half& Half that does a poor job of either task.

- Full Flat Grind is easy to sharpen and thin enough to not cause drag when slicing most materials. Hollow grind is good

too, if the flat portion of the blade is not too thick, some knives using a 3 stage grind are OK but the primary grind should

be most of the blade, not a third of it.

- General knives should be have a bit of positive rake, with straight blade near the ricasso (which should be small) have

the focal area on a gradually transitioning belly, and a sharp point. I don't usually like spear point. Clip point, false edge

and sheep's foot/ Wharncliffe have thier places.

- I like a blade with a 4-5" cutting edge, but smaller knives will feel bigger if designed well. i.e. Delica.

  • Be easy to get at quickly and easily with one hand in a natural motion, and ditto for putting away. The very best is such that when I grab it, the handle is already oriented in my hand the way it will be when I cut with it. Ergo: tip of blade up, axle down. Many very popular knives get this backward and require you to pinch the handle to pull it from your pocket, then pivot the handle into your palm.
  • Have a comfortable handle that promotes versatile use in different types of cut i.e. that doesn't require me to torque my wrist to do point work, and focuses primarily on the "sweet spot" for common slicing, yet doesn't have so much rake that it makes high force cuts close to the ricasso awkward. Texture and contours should promote a "handshake" hold rather than a "hammer" hold. The shape of the handle should hold your hand positively and communicate alignment of the edge to your hand. A good handle design would provide solid grip and control if it were coated with teflon and you have oily hands. If the shape is right, texture and material are just bonuses, but worthy bonuses.
  • Have a reliable opening mechanism that is not awkward, and doesn't protrude to interfere with cuts.
  • be light.

The truck with dents in it is more useful than the shiny truck right off the lot.

  • The knife should cost less than $60 if I deal hunt. I am oK with getting a $200 knife for $55 and using it.
  • The knife should not be rare or special so that I will feel bad if it gets lost or damaged.
  • I should be ok with stripping wires with my knife and then later using it to do some fine filet type cuts. (good steel goes a long way here) The knife you can use without thinking is a better knife than the knife that is too nice to use.

Springs and Automatic features and knuckle dusters make you look like a poser and raise eye brows. Something with a bit more class causes you less hassles in life. I have taken 5" knives that meet the whole above list through airports many times (pre 9/11 aftermath) and just placed it in the change tray, they didn't care because it looked like a practical implement not some poser weapon. Low key is helpful. Some places have threshold rules based on the length of the blade. Spring assist and similar are also common rules. At my school and many jobs they can refuse to admit any knife they feel like, but automatically block anything with springs or above 3" Don't have a knife that looks "evil" and you can get away with a lot of the function they are afraid of. Just don't give people a reason to have a problem with you and you won't have problems. Believe me, I can have my pocket knife out and open faster than most people can with automatics (good design and frequent use make this very natural). I sometimes deliberately carry one that I have to open more slowly so as not to call attention to myself.

 

For these reasons I enthusiastically recommend these two knives:

For every day:

http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=284

You don't get steel this good for $65, but you do from spyderco. The rest of the construction is top notch. Blade shape and grind is near ideal. The point is ugly, but that is done for reinforcement. (I hate the blade distal profile on the 4th gen non full flat grind models) The handle can be set up with the clip oriented wherever you want it, and is light, comfortable and strong. It provides excellent grip. The contour of the handle is not as good as previous generations. Previous generations had better rake , and a bit more depth to the handle, which were about perfect. This is not as good, but the blade and other details are better. The "second" (really it is the third) Generation has a great shape for handle and blade, very good metal (G10), and a pocket clip that you will need to tighten periodically.

 

For when you prefer or need to carry something slightly smaller.

http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=456

This knife is near perfect for a knife of it's size. Superior handle design makes it feel bigger in use.

Edited by GunFun
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Someone offered to sell me a well worn Kirby Lambert Sniper at what appears to be a decent price when compared with what they sell for new (plus Mr. Lambert says he can "refurb" it if sent to him). Before I go through the hassle of meeting the guy to see it first hand, anyone familiar with the knife or maker? How do you determine the sharpness or blade quality - shave my arm or cut paper or just identify the material itself? (This particular knife is "S30V" - ?) Thanks

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For my EDC Knife, I want it to be good at being a knife. I also want it to be comfortable to carry. Third, it has to be a knife I can use without worrying about harming the knife. For some situations I want a knife that will not cause problems with other people.

 

So for a knife to be good at being a knife it needs to:

  • Have steel that is good enough to take an edge
  • Have steel that is good enough to hold an edge
  • Have an edge and grind suitable to the specific or general task I have in mind.

  • Be easy to get at quickly and easily with one hand in a natural motion, and ditto for putting away. The very best is such that when I grab it, the handle is already oriented in my hand the way it will be when I cut with it. Ergo: tip of blade up, axle down. Many very popular knives get this backward and require you to pinch the handle to pull it from your pocket, then pivot the handle into your palm.
  • Have a comfortable handle that promotes versatile use in different types of cut i.e. that doesn't require me to torque my wrist to do point work, and focuses primarily on the "sweet spot" for common slicing, yet doesn't have so much rake that it makes high force cuts close to the ricasso awkward.
  • Have a reliable opening mechanism that is not awkward, and doesn't protrude to interfere with cuts.

 

have empty bullets for future additions to list :D

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i think the spyderco hole is hard to beat for a way to open a knife.

 

I may have to make a video response to that.

 

Fixed the prior post. I bumped something and it went up glitchy before I was done.

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after using the spydie hole, it actually feels awkward using studs IMO. plus i like the natural thumb ramp the hole provides. i dont mind certain blade profiles so long as they are used correctly. poking things with a modified clip point with a full flat grind wont leave much of a tip if your trying to pierce a hard object. i learned that the hard way.

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I dont need a knife, I have a GUN.

 

Hope ya never are confronted at 0-10 feet!

 

(I think 21 ft has been the determined "Reaction" range where a knife guy can/ will get the drop on ya before you can respond)

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In my State (MI), I don't believe you can carry a blade over 3" in most places. No "double edged non folding stabing instruments" either. However, I've also read in the laws that you aren't supposed to carry a blade I believe it was 5" or more, if you have criminal intent. Does that mean you can carry a folding double edged 5" blade, so long as you don't have criminal intent? I've yet to get a straight answer.

 

I normally carry a Benchmade Mel Pardue folder with a reversable pocket clip that allows for point up carry (when folded). A secodary blade is often found with my keys (mini leatherman) or as a neck knife (custom non-folder w/ 2" blade).

 

P1020978.JPG

 

I dont need a knife, I have a GUN.

 

Good luck with that gun if you're attacked in a bathroom stall. In that situation, I'd MUCH rather have a good blade.

Edited by Corbin
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I dont need a knife, I have a GUN.

 

Yeah, but my neighbors complain when I use my pistol to open a letter. It does work well for putting the bills into the 3ring binder.

 

after using the spydie hole, it actually feels awkward using studs IMO. plus i like the natural thumb ramp the hole provides. i dont mind certain blade profiles so long as they are used correctly. poking things with a modified clip point with a full flat grind wont leave much of a tip if your trying to pierce a hard object. i learned that the hard way.

 

Different knives for specific work. That was my list for the every day knife. I liked the point on the Gen II enduras much better, but the newer ones are better overall. the 4th gen standard model is much too thick and blunt an angle for me, but the point is extremely durable.

 

One thing for sure, there are few things I hate more than those stupid "tanto" points everything had to have for a while. Real tantos didn't even have that point generally.

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i actually rid myself of all my tanto blades. they have good tip strength, but i found them to be kind of a pain in the ass to sharpen on a benchstone by hand. plus they didnt offer me anything that my hunters points couldnt. i guess a lot of it is a "cool" factor. some of them do look good. i must say that daggers are still my favorite.

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For some reason they were all advertised for their ability to punch through oil drums. I've personally never found the need to punch through a steel barrel. In the spirit of extreme skepticism, I did take two otherwise similar knives, one of which was a tanto style, and stab an old barrel. Unsurprisingly, it was nigh impossible to leave any puncture on even the thinnest parts of the barrel without a hammer on the knife. So much for the ads. Both tips were about equally buggered from the first strike. Further the goofy angle on the tanto made it harder.

 

to the OP, whenever I am running around in the woods or doing manual work for a while, the other knife I carry is a leatherman super tool. The only thing I have seen that is even close to as good is the current SOG model with gear reduction. leatherman makes some cheapy models now, but Super tool is my choice. Each of the tools gets used lots and the screwdrivers won't fold on you when you put pressure on them. Also all the tools are full size, rather than just something to list on the package. The pliers are pointy and strong, so they don't suck. What's the point of a leatherman clone if the pliers aren't any good? (many of the fancy sliding gerber tool have blunt non grippy pliers. I've seen several pairs that the handles touched before the pliers closed, and many that were close. Grip something tight and you get pinched. Also crappy small blades and 2/3 of a phillips.)

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Gary and Syndicate, what is the rationale behind paying so much for a custom EDC (I am asking sincerely)? Is it the collectibility, the prestige, a special purpose knife, or is there some functional advandage? As Rusty Truck said, you can $25 for something practical and not worry about it. Another consideration is I have talked to others that say your carry gun should be reliable but "expendible" because if you ever have to use it in self-defense you will more than likely lose it as evidence. So as someone trying to make an educated decision, how do I set a viable price range when knives vary from $12 to upwards of $1000? Thanks!

Excellent question; I appreciate the sincerity of how you stated it. So. . . I will attempt to provide you an answer, but know of course that it is MY answer and everyone will have a different take and response. This topic is akin to attempting to debate or discuss which is the best personal defense ammunition caliber, or which handgun is best for concealed carry.

 

As I mentioned previously, IMO EDC items can be (but are not always) like personal jewelry: "Hmmm. . . what do I feel like wearing today?" What EDC item will meet the essential requirements of what I believe I will be doing today? That sort of thing. Hell, it can come down to what EDC item visually goes best with what I am wearing. Like, I would not select my Bogi Asp as my carry knife were I headed off in a three piece suit to attend a wedding, followed by a wedding reception. But I digress.

 

Speaking only for myself, my "rationale" for selecting the Bogi Asp as my EDC are, or were based on the following factors, in no particular order of precedence:

1) I'm 52 years young biggrin.png, retired from the U.S. Military; working my second career. . . so I can afford some of the nicer things in life, and have pursued such things now as "hobbies". So, spending $1K on a custom knife that upon its purchase at the time I believed would become my EDC knife (as previously mentioned in my other reply post, you have to 'try it' for a while; wear it for some time, before you will know with reasonable surety that "it IS the one" for your EDC needs), wasn't a financial risk for me.

2) My current employment has me essentially "riding a desk" and jockying a computer five days out of the week; I work in an administrative-type environment. So, my EDC knife does not need to be a work horse; 99.9% of its utilization is for cutting packaging tape and opening cardboard boxes, all of which only happens rarely.

3) For my EDC knife, I wanted something that I could use for personal defense purposes as well, and I found the Boguszewski Asp's specific blade shape and overall size to be absolutely ideal in that regard.

4) With the pursuit of my custom knife hobby/passion, I developed an affinity for "flipper" type folding mechanisms, and Phil Boguszewski developed one of arguably thee best such mechanisms, so I was compelled to own an example of his work. Additionally, Phil Boguszewski happens to live about 25 miles from my home (although I have never personally met the guy), so that too was a motivator for me toward collecting one of his pieces.

 

The above pretty-much sums it up for me. As implied in #4 above, there is some prestige I suppose associated with owning a Boguszewski custom knife, and unquestionably there's the collectability factor. But, the latter becomes markedly deminished once one actually starts carrying and using such high end custom knives as their EDCs due naturally to wear (marks and scratches sustained specifically to the pocket knife's clip, and tiny scratches and markings that occur to the knife's bolsters and scales due to other items that bump-up against it while traveling in one's pants pocket, such as car keys and pocket change).

 

Uhhhhhh. . . I suppose this was all more than you wanted to know or hear?

 

~Gary

 

 

The long form of saying it's an addiction! Hooah! Glad someone else uses their blades!

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If you ever need a certain microtech, let me know. I can locate all the old hard to find stuff and have most of it. I can get a hell of a deal on the new stuff. I can even get the Marfione blades on occasion.

 

I have an automatic transmission on my vehicle. Much more deadly than an assisted blade. Fuck em! Get a fucking warrant.

 

oh really? I've been looking to add to my collection. My H.A.L.O. is so original I got a call from Scott about it wondering how I got it, all it's directions were mostly hand printed on paper or hand cut on orange paper in a plane box you could buy at an office store. I want to get a newer H.A.L.O. that isn't so rare and valuable for carry use.

 

your halo will have the stainless, almost stonewashed blade without any cool vented blood grooves and will have the funky original paratrooper samuri bend. The month and date were on the handles of them and they came with a plactic bag that says made in usa, a white cardboard box with matching serial and id. The pamphlet was yellow printed out in the shop on a copy machine and stapled by hand. they are not as cool as the other million variants out there now, but they are pretty rare. The only one more rare in a halo that the original is one that came out in about 02? It was damascus by Marfione with his saber mark on the handle.

 

what model halo do you want? difficult to find a used one. The halo 2 is about the least expensive. Still, a difficult blade to carry around. The UDT and the UDT mini are great to carry as folders. OTF blades are great for climbing and jumping, and diving but not so useful on the dirt.

Edited by Stryker0946
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If you ever need a certain microtech, let me know. I can locate all the old hard to find stuff and have most of it. I can get a hell of a deal on the new stuff. I can even get the Marfione blades on occasion.

 

I have an automatic transmission on my vehicle. Much more deadly than an assisted blade. Fuck em! Get a fucking warrant.

 

oh really? I've been looking to add to my collection. My H.A.L.O. is so original I got a call from Scott about it wondering how I got it, all it's directions were mostly hand printed on paper or hand cut on orange paper in a plane box you could buy at an office store. I want to get a newer H.A.L.O. that isn't so rare and valuable for carry use.

 

your halo will have the stainless, almost stonewashed blade without any cool vented blood grooves and will have the funky original paratrooper samuri bend. The month and date were on the handles of them and they came with a plactic bag that says made in usa, a white cardboard box with matching serial and id. The pamphlet was yellow printed out in the shop on a copy machine and stapled by hand. they are not as cool as the other million variants out there now, but they are pretty rare. The only one more rare in a halo that the original is one that came out in about 02? It was damascus by Marfione with his saber mark on the handle.

 

what model halo do you want? difficult to find a used one. The halo 2 is about the least expensive. Still, a difficult blade to carry around. The UDT and the UDT mini are great to carry as folders. OTF blades are great for climbing and jumping, and diving but not so useful on the dirt.

 

I'm looking for a 2 or a 3 oxide coat blade half serration if possible.

 

I'll get some pictures of mine and the packaging and what not, but mine has the spine holes

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This is my EDC or whatever you call it knife. It's been all over the world. It's an old first run cold steel tanto made in Japan. The sheath is also made in Japan and still fits like a glove. The lanyard on this one is a bungee and is Gypsy-proof. A man once tried to lift this off me on a trolley in Prague. I pushed my elbow into his sternum to back him off a few feed and asked if he was really going to try and steal a knife off of an an American so close to the Embassy. He shit his pants when I released the lanyard from the sheath and put my hand on the grip. That's the closest I have come to loosing this blade. I never want to part with it. She is a bitch to sharpen but holds a razor's edge for a long time when you figure out the proper angles for a tanto. I've done lots of things with this blade and it keeps a great grip in wet conditions. It will not break off if you use it to puncture. The slashing abilities of this small blade are great. It conceals inside the pant, into a Levi 5th pocket, and works good externally and on suspenders inverted. Sadly, the new ones suck balls compared to this little old lady. This blade is made for traveling!

 

SAM_1570.jpg

 

SAM_1571.jpg

 

Here are two personal blades for Elk and Whitetail hunting. The big girl is a Phillip Patton that can surgically remove the pelvic bone of an elk with one chop. It slices a deers sternum like it's cartilage. She has some spots in her right now from blood. Flitz metal polish will take it right out. The higher carbon steels are always a pain in the ass to maintain if you use them for what they were intended.

 

The little girl next to it was just given to (me) my unborn son who will arrive this winter. Dad found out it was a boy and figured a local blade would suit him well hunting out here. The Ruana blades are not as nice as some of the hunters like the Randalls, Lile and Lee's but they have a special meaning to real hunters and maintain their value even when heavily used hunting. The older Ruana blades you might find at random have R.H. Ruana engraved on them very poorly with a vibrating engraver. It was more about function hunting than pretty little flares. The family carries on the tradition of RH. Good blades for real hunters. Sharp as can be.

 

SAM_1572.jpg

 

If you ever need a certain microtech, let me know. I can locate all the old hard to find stuff and have most of it. I can get a hell of a deal on the new stuff. I can even get the Marfione blades on occasion.

 

I have an automatic transmission on my vehicle. Much more deadly than an assisted blade. Fuck em! Get a fucking warrant.

 

oh really? I've been looking to add to my collection. My H.A.L.O. is so original I got a call from Scott about it wondering how I got it, all it's directions were mostly hand printed on paper or hand cut on orange paper in a plane box you could buy at an office store. I want to get a newer H.A.L.O. that isn't so rare and valuable for carry use.

 

your halo will have the stainless, almost stonewashed blade without any cool vented blood grooves and will have the funky original paratrooper samuri bend. The month and date were on the handles of them and they came with a plactic bag that says made in usa, a white cardboard box with matching serial and id. The pamphlet was yellow printed out in the shop on a copy machine and stapled by hand. they are not as cool as the other million variants out there now, but they are pretty rare. The only one more rare in a halo that the original is one that came out in about 02? It was damascus by Marfione with his saber mark on the handle.

 

what model halo do you want? difficult to find a used one. The halo 2 is about the least expensive. Still, a difficult blade to carry around. The UDT and the UDT mini are great to carry as folders. OTF blades are great for climbing and jumping, and diving but not so useful on the dirt.

 

I'm looking for a 2 or a 3 oxide coat blade half serration if possible.

 

I'll get some pictures of mine and the packaging and what not, but mine has the spine holes

 

Sounds like a halo 2. What does the charging handle say on it when you pull it out? There are a gazillion variants of the halo. Try to specify which one and I can see if I can get it for you. I'd put up a quick auction and you would have to prove it's legit to collect or own in your state.

Edited by Stryker0946
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Nice knives man. Ya cold steel Japan used to be so amazing.

 

It's legit, Scott was the intake guy that called me, but Tony was the one that looked at the knife and he told Scott that he literally remembers making this exact knife.

He's done a lot of maintenance on it for me, upgraded a few things and assured me it wouldn't affect the value.

Susan has called me before and thanked me for being a repeat customer, it was when I sent in 6 knives (3 mine and 3 from friends) she thought they were all mine.

 

Microtech is a fantastic company and stands as the only knife maker that keeps me from buying Benchmade.

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Nice knives man. Ya cold steel Japan used to be so amazing.

 

It's legit, Scott was the intake guy that called me, but Tony was the one that looked at the knife and he told Scott that he literally remembers making this exact knife.

He's done a lot of maintenance on it for me, upgraded a few things and assured me it wouldn't affect the value.

Susan has called me before and thanked me for being a repeat customer, it was when I sent in 6 knives (3 mine and 3 from friends) she thought they were all mine.

 

Microtech is a fantastic company and stands as the only knife maker that keeps me from buying Benchmade.

 

You will like these guys also... http://www.chrisreeve.com/

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